garage floor - stick-on vinyl tile additional info
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
garage floor - stick-on vinyl tile additional info
The other thread about vinyl tile on garage floor really got me interested. I emailed Armstrong trying to locate a plain white and black tile and told them of my plan to use them in the garage. Their response has made me rethink this, especially as I live in the northeast and the garage gets cold in winter. Also wet in the rain, but especially in the winter when the car comes in with lots of snow and ice on it and it melts all over the garage floor. However, I may still try it, cleaning and priming the concrete floor first, and then sealing the tiles with wax or other sealer after. Here is what they emailed me:
Please note:
Installation of resilient flooring into a garage is not an Armstrong
recommended application. Resilient flooring should only be installed in
temperature-controlled environments. It is highly recommended that the
permanent HVAC system be in operation before the installation of resilient
flooring. The area to receive resilient flooring should be maintained at a
minimum of 65 degrees F (18 degrees C) and a maximum of 100 degrees F (38
degrees C) for 48 hours before, during, and 48 hours after completion of
the installation. Normally garages are not temperature-controlled areas.
After installation, the temperature should be maintained at a minimum of 55
degrees F. The performance of the flooring material and adhesives can be
adversely affected below this minimum temperature. Most garage floors
have had gas and oil dripped or spilled on them. The residue in the
substrate will inhibit the adhesive from working properly. Automobile
fluids, such as brake, transmission and oil, if leaked onto the resilient
flooring can get into the joints of the tile and break down the adhesive
creating a bonding issue and a possible installation failure. The oils and
antioxidants used in the manufacturing process of rubber tiles will cause a
permanent yellow discoloration to any resilient (vinyl) flooring. Also,
exposure to the moisture from rain, snow or sleet and varying temperatures
will have a damaging effect on both tile and sheet flooring.
Please feel free to call us at 1-800-233-3823 if you have any other
questions and thank you for your interest in Armstrong flooring for your
home.
Please note:
Installation of resilient flooring into a garage is not an Armstrong
recommended application. Resilient flooring should only be installed in
temperature-controlled environments. It is highly recommended that the
permanent HVAC system be in operation before the installation of resilient
flooring. The area to receive resilient flooring should be maintained at a
minimum of 65 degrees F (18 degrees C) and a maximum of 100 degrees F (38
degrees C) for 48 hours before, during, and 48 hours after completion of
the installation. Normally garages are not temperature-controlled areas.
After installation, the temperature should be maintained at a minimum of 55
degrees F. The performance of the flooring material and adhesives can be
adversely affected below this minimum temperature. Most garage floors
have had gas and oil dripped or spilled on them. The residue in the
substrate will inhibit the adhesive from working properly. Automobile
fluids, such as brake, transmission and oil, if leaked onto the resilient
flooring can get into the joints of the tile and break down the adhesive
creating a bonding issue and a possible installation failure. The oils and
antioxidants used in the manufacturing process of rubber tiles will cause a
permanent yellow discoloration to any resilient (vinyl) flooring. Also,
exposure to the moisture from rain, snow or sleet and varying temperatures
will have a damaging effect on both tile and sheet flooring.
Please feel free to call us at 1-800-233-3823 if you have any other
questions and thank you for your interest in Armstrong flooring for your
home.
#3
Team Owner
Which tile is 'resilient' tile? Peel & stick or the industrial glue down?
Glad my garage seldom sees under 55 degrees
Glad my garage seldom sees under 55 degrees
#4
Racer
I'm in Anchorage, and keep my garage heated through the winter (damn near all year). This is fairly common here. I've seen a lot of posts about not working on the car because of no heat. Can you install an electric or gas unit heater?
#6
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
That's why I recommend MotorMat or other similar products. It's made for a garage environment. It's not affected by temperatures or temperature fluctuations. Nor is it affected by any fluid spills on it or in the concrete. The only prep I did b4 installing was to first clean the floor with Simple Green and then lay a heavy gauge plastic sheet down.
The problem with ordinary floor tiles as Armstrong pointed out is not just temps but the fluids adsorbed into concrete over the years and those that will be leaked onto it and into it's joints. Also driving on and working on slick waxed tile floor can be dangerous.
You know the old saying....you get what you pay for & get the right tool for the job.....
http://www.motormat.com/main.html
The problem with ordinary floor tiles as Armstrong pointed out is not just temps but the fluids adsorbed into concrete over the years and those that will be leaked onto it and into it's joints. Also driving on and working on slick waxed tile floor can be dangerous.
You know the old saying....you get what you pay for & get the right tool for the job.....
http://www.motormat.com/main.html
Last edited by gq82; 03-30-2005 at 07:32 PM.
#7
Senior Member since 1492
Originally Posted by gq82
That's why I recommend MotorMat or other similar products. It's made for a garage environment. It's not affected by temperatures or temperature fluctuations. Nor is it affected by any fluid spills on it or in the concrete. The only prep I did b4 installing was to first clean the floor with Simple Green and then lay a heavy gauge plastic sheet down.
The problem with ordinary floor tiles as Armstrong pointed out is not just temps but the fluids adsorbed into concrete over the years and those that will be leaked onto it and into it's joints. Also driving on and working on slick waxed tile floor can be dangerous.
You know the old saying....you get what you pay for & get the right tool for the job.....
http://www.motormat.com/main.html
The problem with ordinary floor tiles as Armstrong pointed out is not just temps but the fluids adsorbed into concrete over the years and those that will be leaked onto it and into it's joints. Also driving on and working on slick waxed tile floor can be dangerous.
You know the old saying....you get what you pay for & get the right tool for the job.....
http://www.motormat.com/main.html
How does the Motormat take to floor jacks and jack stands?
#8
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by Jughead
How does the Motormat take to floor jacks and jack stands?
Last edited by gq82; 03-30-2005 at 07:45 PM.
#9
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by 73 Vet
I'm in Anchorage, and keep my garage heated through the winter (damn near all year). This is fairly common here. I've seen a lot of posts about not working on the car because of no heat. Can you install an electric or gas unit heater?
I have a ductless heat pump going in my garage soon. we dont have the drastic cold you have though and maybe a "vented" gas/propane heater would be more appropriate. just make sure you vent it to the outside,or your garage becomes the chimney. (ventless gas fireplaces/heaters are not very safe regardless of what the manufacturers claim- they are only tested at 2 hours in optimal conditions. you can theoretically crack open a window or pedestrian door in the garage but that kind of defeats the purpose)
another alternative would be to zone your garage in on the existing HVAC assuming it is attached to the house. when and if you ever need the a/c on, id recommend closing the vents in the garage though. a furnace can accomodate more sq footage pretty easily but a/c units are done by a pretty precise formula and efficency would suffer quite a bit adding the extra area to cool.
good luck! Dave
#10
Know exactly what your going through, I live close to the ocean and have a concrete floor garage. We get the temperature changes and everything sweats then rusts, or you get the aluminum to start pitting. I used the gray concrete floor paint from Home Depot, easy to clean and easy to apply. Now I'm thinking about insulation and heating, just ask Gordonm how cold my garage can get..
#11
Burning Brakes
My garage is will insulated and I do have a ceiling mounted gas furnace out there, so below 55 is not really a problem...can get pretty hot out there in the summer though.
However, quite a few folks have chimed in who used the standard tiles and have had several years trouble free service from them. I would be willing to bet not all of them have climated controlled garages, at least not air conditioned?
However, quite a few folks have chimed in who used the standard tiles and have had several years trouble free service from them. I would be willing to bet not all of them have climated controlled garages, at least not air conditioned?
#14
Drifting
Originally Posted by PRNDL
how cool is this? Design your own checkerboard pattern... to match your car's color!
http://www.locktile-usa.com/design.html
http://www.locktile-usa.com/design.html
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by PRNDL
how cool is this? Design your own checkerboard pattern... to match your car's color!
http://www.locktile-usa.com/design.html
http://www.locktile-usa.com/design.html
No Black & White??
#16
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#17
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Here's a recent post from the Viper forum (with pics). Guy used the Armstrong tiles in B & W:
http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/sho...t=1#Post524982
http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/sho...t=1#Post524982
#18
Uber Waxer
heres the armstrong vct in my garage and i live in maryland where it gets pretty cold and i didnt have any problems this winter.
#19
Team Owner
Thread Starter
EVIL - that looks great! esp the way you matched the wall to your car color (MY?) I am both cheap and lazy; my garage is about 620 sq ft, so if I can get a floor (tile?) for $500 and the alternative is $1500, I'm going with the cheaper alternative if there is hope that it will actually work. Epoxy sounds like too much work for me. Another product I am looking into is large vinyl sheets that roll out and cover the floor.