Well here is the plan as it sits today.

I am working on an aluminum brake system probably with forged billet superlites, and forged billet dynalites. New rotors and probably hydraboost.

I will probably order the expensive suspension from van steel or VBP. I will probably have to make a few modifications for much wider tires.

the wheels I am looking at 17x12 and 17x10 black annodized CCWs with 335s and 275 or 285s tires. This will go under some ZL1 flares.

I am also looking longingly at the keisler T56 kit though I dont really want the stock looking shifter. I like the billiard ball shift **** I have on my hurst shifter.

The engine is well on the way. A twin turbo 383.

I have some pro-mod 5.7" connecting rods. Some carbs off of a european spec turbo lotus, though the carbs on the american model would work better, I will just have to deal. And the perfect turbo actually turned out to be stock grand national turbos. And I got a pair of those for a song. I am looking for a forged steel 3.75" stroke crank for a 1-piece rear main seal crank. probe makes some Forged pistons that will work perfectly for a very reasonable price. So thats cool.
I am looking some edelbrock RPM cylinderheads with the 70cc chambers. They are pretty cheap for a decent flowing aluminum cylinderhead with the kidney shaped chambers. The 170cc chambers are pretty nice and will work out nicely. I called compcams about a custom hydraulic roller cam cause I want my engine to peak at about 6000 rpm cause I dont want to get into valve float, and it should be alot easier on the parts. they recommended a 236/242 duration at .050 lift and a 112 LSA. which will peak at 5800 rpm. So that works out nicely. I think it will sound kinda cool.

Other interesting things of note is that the 1st gen DSM blow off valve will do everything I want a blow off valve to do, and I guess I can spring for a pair of wastegates, but I dont really think I need big fancy ones cause I am not gonna be using a boost controller.

The exhaust is a challenging situation. I am probably use a shorty style header from sanderson headers and plumb some 3" pipe into a reducer right before the header. The passenger side is easy. The driver side is a challenge, I want to mount the turbo above the oil pan so I can gravity drain the oil from the turbo. But the problems are the steering system and the brake master cylinder and booster. But I think it can be done. the grand national turbos are nice cause they have a circular inlet into the turbine, instead of the square one on most turbos. but its designed for a 2.25" inlet and outlet from the turbo, so there is gonna be a reducer in and out. 3" on either side. I think this might have a nice scavenging effect on the turbo, cause of the rapid pressure drop into the 3" pipe. Also if you look on websites like the MTI link on the sidebar you will find electric cutouts for 3" pipe. so I can keep a little red covered missile switch to actuate some electric cutouts near the turbo.

Another idea I have is how I am gonna plumb the whole system. I will probably use something like the braided radiator hose to connect the compressor on the turbo to the intercooler and from the intercooler to the carbeurators. The stuff is used to fluids at a couple of hundred degrees so I doubt air at similiar temps would be a problem. It also adds some ease and flexibility in placing stuff.

Not to sure about the intercooler. I am thinking about putting it parrell to the hood above the engine. I could cut a hole in the hood and glue some foam to expose the intercooler to the outside ambient air. Maybe glue some foam around the intercooler to act like a gasket. But that has 2 disadvantages, like letting air from above the car below the car which will contribute to front end lift at speed. second its proximity to the engine would keep it fairly warm. Not to sure if the constant flow of air from the radiator fan would make that much of a difference. Of course the callaway designed engine in the mazdaspeed protege has a similiar design. I could put it infront of the radiator like everybody else, but I wanted to load that area up with oil, fuel, power steering, etc coolers up there.

I am really torn about putting in the steeroids kit. I hear mixed reviews. I like the idea, and it would definitely help, I am just not sure what the problems with the steeroids kit are.

thats what I got in my head.

Be gentle.

 

I thought the stock GN turbo's had internal wastegates?

Sounds like you are going to have a hell of a car.


David

 

I think I'm supposed to say something about a TKO shift handle here.

 

Your more than welcome if you want.

 

Guru I have a set of Eagle 6" H beam rods NIB and a Scat 3.75 forged crank still NIB to match for a two piece block. This is from where I had this insane dream. $750 for both, that's half price.

I used the Pro 5.0 shifter and took out the stock TKO shifter. I like the stock round ball and will be using a standard Hurst ball without a shift pattern if I can find one. I have a '80 console shift plate that is stock appearing except for the pattern being 5 speed.

I need to sell these unused parts to buy a Corvette Steering power steering conversion that uses an 808 internal assist box.jim

 

I wish I had 750. Is the scat crank balanced for 5.7" rods as well as 6" some cranks are?

if so I could afford just the crank

 

"if so I could afford just the crank."

Sure, the crank is $750 and the rods goes with it as a set.

I can't break it up, it would be to hard to sell what was left. The crank is for a 6" rod. Sell your rods and buy this set up. jim

 

I will talk to my wife

 

You need to have a chat with TT and Stingraycrazy, those are the resident turbo gurus. Stingraycrazy has a VERY well designed intercooler that personally I am a big fan of, HIS SITE is usefull in the general case, I just wish he'd answer a few questions I had about it all. Also check out info from Gale Banks, hes a SBC TT guru from WAAYYY back. Good luck, the TT project is never easy but it is doable. I was pondering doing it myself but I just like the look and sound of my sidepipes too much

 

Front tires may rub the frame when turning

 

even with 4" backspacing.

 

Yeah I checked out gale banks kit. Not my cup of tea.

 

You can have too much rubber up front, I dont think I would ever go wider than 9 up front, I just dont think youre going to see much gain by going wider, in fact it might hinder performace in a straight line as well as increasing unsprung weight, which is never a good combo.

 

Primarily to fill the 2" flares which look sweet and to match tires.

Its not a drag car.

 

You probably will experience darting...