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I dont have a test light. just crossed the wires. They worked fine all day then just quit.
Go an get a test light they are cheap. Get the type with a alligator clip on one end of the wire to go to ground. With the probe part you will test for voltage. It will light up if you have juice. Could be done in the reverse also with these test lights. If you crossed the wires you would be riding around with your brake lights on all day. Is this what you really did? Did you have power before you jumped the switch or did you bring power up from another source to the switch? To tell you the truth I am not sure if there is power going to the brake light switch or if the switch just completes the circuit when it is depressed. That is one reason why you need a test light. Maybe someone else could weigh in on this who knows for sure.
Why go get a used switch. Autozone has what you need and it's less that $10.
The 68 uses a unique different 1yr only switch. Just about every other year uses a standard plunger type switch. I pretty easily adapted the plunger style switch to work in my 68. (Somebody on the forum explained how to do this). So, you can go either way. I have a replacement correct 68-style switch that I will some day install. But if it's not your switch you will be wasting your time and money.
(The correct one for 68 is 68-only, not 67-68)
Additional info: What I find amazing is that even tho this part was only made 1 year and only for corvettes (as far as I know), it is still available today! AC Delco part # D886
The brake lights did not come on when i jumped the wires to the switch. Thanks for all the replies.
The tail lights use the same ground in the back, so I would put power to the wire at the switch end(jumped?) and see if you can see it at the socket end(you could run a long power jump to the rear and hook it to the first connector.
Check the wires to the rear and see if one got grounded to the frame somewhere.
PS
When you get a test light, have someone apply the breaks and test the out side of the switch, if you have power, it's in the wiring to the rear.
Last edited by 72GACRZR; May 23, 2005 at 04:24 PM.
If both rear turn signals work, and courtesy lights work, test with test light the white wire at stop light switch with pedal depressed. If light glows the switch is working, light goes out with pedal released. (Always check test light ground, the best ground is at Bat -, if wire is to short clip it to the courtesy light switch (nut) making sure it isn't covered with 37 years of paint, check fuse box for power.) Ok the test light works, always test it. So you have Bat + volts at white wire with pedal depressed go up to turn signal switch gang connector (arched plug on steering column with 8 to 10 wires on one side of connector and 8 wires on the other side) Ok now test the white wire on the end of connector with pedal depressed test light should glow. Ok test the mating wire (the continuing wire, it is black with a white stripe) Power with pedal depressed? Ok, the two wires next to the Black with white are dark green and black with yellow stripe (confused yet?) With pedal depressed both the dark green and the black with yellow will glow the test light IF the turn signal switch is NOT faulty. Any questions?
Last edited by Surfer Dan; May 23, 2005 at 09:40 PM.
Reason: spelling
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.