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Do the brake rotor rivets really need to be replaced? The lug nuts hold the rotor tightly in place anyway. Is it overkill? is it unsafe not to have the rivets or some kind of bolts?
GM placed the rivets there to make it difficult for me to replace the rotors 34 years later (they succeeded). Go easy on the person who replaces your rotors in 34 years and don't replace the rivets.
GM placed the rivets there to make it difficult for me to replace the rotors 34 years later (they succeeded). Go easy on the person who replaces your rotors in 34 years and don't replace the rivets.
QUOTE:Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
No, the rivets are onlu used by the factory to turn the rotor on the spindle (rear) or hub (front) so that theya re absolutely true.
QUESTION: I have ordered some front rotors from Van Steel cause the rotors miked at 1.200, but I was'nt thinking about the 'turn the rotor for absolute true' step. I thought changing the rotor was something I could do. Do I need to take it to a Brake Shop to have this done anyway? :o Since I look this dumb I may as well go all the way......the old pads are still very thick. can they be prepped for continued use with the new rotors?
GM placed the rivets there to make it difficult for me to replace the rotors 34 years later (they succeeded). Go easy on the person who replaces your rotors in 34 years and don't replace the rivets.
I was able to drill mine out in about 10 minutes per rotor when I did the rear shoes (parking brake) last weekend. Really wasn't a big deal at all. I had a good quality bit and kept it oiled while drilling.
~Rich
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QUOTE:Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
No, the rivets are onlu used by the factory to turn the rotor on the spindle (rear) or hub (front) so that theya re absolutely true.
QUESTION: I have ordered some front rotors from Van Steel cause the rotors miked at 1.200, but I was'nt thinking about the 'turn the rotor for absolute true' step. I thought changing the rotor was something I could do. Do I need to take it to a Brake Shop to have this done anyway? :o Since I look this dumb I may as well go all the way......the old pads are still very thick. can they be prepped for continued use with the new rotors?
The rotors don't have to be turned on the hub. When your ready to install the rotor, make sure there are no knurls on the hub where the old rivits were. This can be done by lightly grinding over the rivit holes. Than bolt the rotor on and tighten all 5 lug nuts. Put a dial indicator on the rotor and spin it to see what your run out is. I like them to be 7 thou and under but 10 is acceptable. If your higher than that, rotate the rotor one position and repeat the process until you find the lowest runout. Pads are cheap, I replace them when I put rotors on my cars.
I was able to drill mine out in about 10 minutes per rotor when I did the rear shoes (parking brake) last weekend. Really wasn't a big deal at all. I had a good quality bit and kept it oiled while drilling.
~Rich
Really, Replacing parking brake shoes?
Why would you need to replace your parking brake shoes. They don't wear out, of course unless your using them to stop the car. I own a 2002 with over 245000 miles. It still has the original shoes.
Really, Replacing parking brake shoes?
Why would you need to replace your parking brake shoes. They don't wear out, of course unless your using them to stop the car. I own a 2002 with over 245000 miles. It still has the original shoes.
First this is a 15 year old thread.
Second this forum is for C3 Corvettes which dont use the same system as a 2002 and the OP has a 33 year old parking brake system.
Really, Replacing parking brake shoes?
Why would you need to replace your parking brake shoes. They don't wear out, of course unless your using them to stop the car. I own a 2002 with over 245000 miles. It still has the original shoes.