How difficult to do if never done before or just fugetaboutit & have a pro do it?

 

After the money I imagine you paid for paint, I'd let a pro do it. Also just in case you didn't know this (fore sight), You can not wax a new paint job for at least three weeks.

 

I would say 90 days.

 

If you've never buffed anything before, let the pro's do it.
I'm a hack at buffing, and you can burn through the top coat real quick.
Now if you want to learn on a beater or some junkyard parts then the best info can be found on the Meguiar's forums:
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/
Please don't learn on your new paint, I hate to see grown men cry!!!

 

If you're interested in learning how to do it but never do, you'll never find out how. See the circular logic here?

It's not difficult but you can do damage to your new paint if you're not careful.

Here's some tips:

Get yourself a variable speed buffer. I have an old two speed buffer and the two speeds are: too slow and too fast. I threw that one in the can and bought a new variable speed buffer. Harbor Freight sells a nice variable speed buffer for less than $50 that works great.

I find that I like the foam buffing pads the best. I have a yellow pad for the main part of the buffing and black foam pad for the final buff. The yellow pad has a stiffer texture and less cells per inch than the black one. The hook and loop style are really handy for switching back and forth and washing the pad when necessary. Diameters in the range of 7-9" work well. I also have a small diameter pad for getting in to tight spots. A company named S.M. Arnold sells a wide variety of pads. Google them to find their site. Meguire's also has a good selection.

The compound that has worked best for me is 3M's "Perfect-it II" rubbing compound. I also like Maguire's "Swirl Free" polish for the final polishing.

Start on a flat panel to practice. Squirt some compound out on the panel and with the buffer set to slowest speed run the pad through the compound to spread it around the panel and the pad. Move the pad around back and forth in overlapping strokes over a 2' x 2' area at the most. I start with light pressure on the edge of the pad to work out the scratches and as I progress, I tilt the buffer to move the pressure point toward the center of the pad as the compound thins and spreads out. I never run the buffer fast; Maybe one notch off of the slowest speed. Keep the compound wet as you go. Don't let the pad get dry or build up with compound. You can splash water on the panel if it seems to be drying too fast. The moisture keeps the paint surface cool while the compound works. If the pad gets caked with compund, peel it off the backing plate and squeeze it out in water like a sponge. It's also best to do it with temps around 70-75' . Slow and easy does it. You'll see the paint really start to shine. When most all of the wet sanding scratches are gone you can switch to the black pad and finer polish. Wipe the panel free of compound with a clean terry cloth towel.

With your courage built up on the flat panels like the back deck, you can go on to the fenders but stay off of the creases....PERIOD!! Also, when doing next to a door or fender edge, tilt the buffer so that the pad is rubbing in the direction OFF of the panel...never ONTO the panel.
Don't let the buffing pad work two panels at once. One panel at a time!! Sneak up on the panel edge but don't overlap to the next panel. If there is any mismatch in the height of the panels the highest one will buff down the fastest...maybe too fast.

In tight places I switch to the small pads but be careful not to press hard. Since you have a smaller pad the force is not spread out over as large of an area so it is easy to apply too much pressure and burn through.

You may even want to masking tape over edges that you can't avoid hitting with the buffing wheel when trying to do another place. I had this problem with the "gills" on my '68. Then you can peel the tape off without worry after you're done.

You can literally make your paint shine like a mirror after you're done. It's time consuming but the most rewarding part of a new paint job in my opinion.

 

wait a minute...

are we talking about the finishing stages of your clear coat -

- or simply waxing your car??

 

LeMansblue68 about said it all, very well too. The only thing I would add to his instructions is to buy and use a foam pad for the DA for the tight spots. I used one of those and ran the DA real slow to work the tight areas, it was almost goof proof (almost) Its hard to go wrong with the foam pads, wool will cut through a high spot before you can say "Oh $#!t"

 

I'm practicing on my old, faded paint in preparation for a repainting in my garage. As the posts above state, it isn't too hard, but it's also not too hard to mess up. I've messed up in several spots now but to no harm. if I had a new paint job though....

 

This is a new paint job. The shop promised to finish the paint job with the buffing but that guy was fired or quit? I don't trust the other guy thats supposed to buff it and fear he may F up the job. I don't want another 2 month paint job from these guys again. I may just get some estimates from a more reliable place.
Thanks guys

 

If the other guy messes up the buff job, make the shop fix it for you. If they promised you that buffing was part of the job make them hold to it. You're letting them off easy and don't think that they didn't include buffing in their price to you originally.

 

I would have to agree. By you buffing it or taking it somewhere else you are taking on all the risk. If you cut throught then you pay, if another shop cuts through they will say the paint is too thin and you will still pay. Get the guy that painted the car to sort out the buffing so he can fix it if it screws up.