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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 12:15 PM
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marshrat99
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Melting Slicks
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From: Dayton Oh
Default Distributor questions

I was having a little problem with my 79 yesterday coming back from work. At idle, the engine was surging and died several times. Once I got home, I checked the timing and the light just kept bouncing around. I took off the distributor cap and found that the weights were very worn and the only thing holding them in place were the springs.

Two questions:
1) Is there something else besides the springs that hold the weights into place?
2) My engine is not original and has a forged steel, nitrated crank. What type of replacement distributor gears are needed: steel or iron?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 12:25 PM
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From: THE OLDER I GET THE BETTER I WAS! NORTHERN ONTARIO
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Distributor works off the cam shaft...weights are held by springs. Is this the first time you have had this type of encounter? how was it running before the problem started?
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 12:32 PM
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From: Dayton Oh
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Originally Posted by G dad
Distributor works off the cam shaft...weights are held by springs. Is this the first time you have had this type of encounter? how was it running before the problem started?
Believe it or not, last night was the first time in my life I've ever taken a look at the inside of an HEI. The reason I was asking about what should be holding the weights in place was that they're so worn that I bet the holes are at least 1/32" oversize.

Anyway, before yesterday, my 79 ran like a scoulded dog and idled perfectly except for a slight lope due to the XE262 cam.
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 12:39 PM
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From: THE OLDER I GET THE BETTER I WAS! NORTHERN ONTARIO
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I wonder if we are looking at a timing chain problem. Lets line up the timing mark at zero take off your HEI cap & rotate the crank by hand to see how many degrees the balancer moves before the rotor moves. That is one easy way to check your timing chain.
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 12:42 PM
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From: Dayton Oh
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Originally Posted by G dad
I wonder if we are looking at a timing chain problem. Lets line up the timing mark at zero take off your HEI cap & rotate the crank by hand to see how many degrees the balancer moves before the rotor moves. That is one easy way to check your timing chain.
I'll do as you suggest. However, the rebuild was about 7K miles ago and I used a tru double roller chain. Be worth checking for just piece of mind.

Last edited by marshrat99; Jun 29, 2005 at 02:30 PM.
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