Alrighty, so a few of you probably remember the fact that I ended up taking my 72 Stingray in for frame work due to rust issues...see this thread and also this one...and if you really want, where it all began.

Anyway, I've been talking to Dick @ Corvette Sports a lot lately about the progress, and by now the car is finally finished. The final cost was $3227.xx, BUT this did include several other things. Here's a list:

Main frame rail repair - as shown in pictures plus #1 rear crossmember and gussets
Birdcage repair (including new windshield)
Driver's side a-pillar weatherstripping replaced
Outer driver's side door handle replaced, main latch mechanism replaced
Driver's side door latch adjusted
Exhaust tips (had just put on my new Dynomaxes before I took it to them and couldn't get the old tips off)
Wiper door repairs (broken pivot bolt removed, heli-coiled and new bolt installed)
Hood hinge repairs (hinge was not installed correctly, new hole drilled in fender to mount hinge to)
Timing set and minor problem with engine fixed (turned out that the choke was wired incorrectly)

So, needless to say, I am very happy that all this work has been done as I now no longer need to worry about my car falling in two (okay, so the damage wasn't that bad, but still), and also got my engine running better and cabin sealed better along the way Corvette Sports in Sheboygan Falls, WI, did all the work, and they definitely know their stuff and did very good work. As a word of warning, Dick did tend to underestimate costs and also did not consult me when extra work was needed until I called him (i.e. once the extra work was already done), which resulted in he and I getting in a small argument yesterday - basically, his previous estimate was maxed out and the engine work still had not been done. Anyway, I'm going to pick up the car tonight, and I can hardly wait Now, on to the pics...

Driver's side frame rail - before (but after they cut away the bad sections, obviously)





After



Passenger side frame rail - before





After

 

Driver's side birdcage pillar - before





After





Birdcage top rail - before





After

 

Passenger side birdcage pillar - before





After





Phew...and there you have it

 

looks great

 

Your windshield frame what did he use to repair It's hard to tell did he braze it or something?

 

Glad it worked out for you.

 

Was the inside of the frame also done? I see some nasty rust there (sections not cut out) ???

 

72tornado,
Try a peek at www.ship-2-shore.com This is a product used for rust control etc in the marine (ocean) environment for barges, oil drilling platforms, winter road maintenance vehicles etc etc. I bought their product and saturated the inside of my frame in every conceivable place. I have used it on very corroded nuts & bolts, frozen piston rings and was amazed at the speed of the product. It is also supposed to penetrate porus paint. Give it a peek and see what you think. It could be bogus, but, sure has worked for me....

have a fine day John

 

Is this a one time only procedure, or do you have to recoat every few years? Is it like a paint, or some sort of chemical that etches the metal?

 

lostpatrolman,

This product is a two part procedure if done correctly. First is the rust or corrosion penetrant. This physically appears very close to any of the other such products out there. However, it is not. The creeping action of this stuff is amazing. After this is allowed to soak the affected area for the given time (a week if I recall correctly) the second product is applied. This is much thicker(maybe like jellied oil)and does not run off. This now soaks into the rust and stays indefinately. Oh, it is temperature dependent on an inverse scale. That is, as the temp rises the life decreases. However, temp has to rise signifacantly. This is a one time application product if you completely cover the affected area. I completely drenched the inside of my frame and any area I could get a flex wand into. The underbody applicator kit can be found at Eastwood. Take a peek at the site and judge for yourself.

 

i am glad you got it repaired. i agree with twin turbo did they cut out the other metal that had heavy rust? if not you need to make sure it is coated with something to slow down the other rust. also how did the windsheild frame look below the fiberglass fenders and inside the number 2 and three body mts. look. it is common for problems in these areas in light of the other problems you had it would be worth a look.
the sooner you address these areas the better. it would be better to repair now than wait too long and have nothing to work with.
i am not trying to discourage you just trying to make you aware.
wilson a.

 

Yeah, any of the material in the pics that had any heavy rust on it was cut away - they used a chemical to kill the rust on contact and coated everything. I already took a look at the windshield frame before I took the car to them, but had them check it out as well just to make sure. Rocker channels and lower areas of the birdcage are all very solid, but thanks for the warning

 

The frame rail repairs look very good. It looks like you were lucky and he could cut out the sections without lifting the body. I had similar repairs done many years ago - frame rail corners and windshield frame replaced. These repairs have held up nicely.

 

someone was there before you...the end of the frame rail is capped off, stock the cap sits a bit inside the rail not flush like that.

 

I'm aware of that...someone had tried sealing the upper windshield trim with black goo too...the previous job wasn't very extensive though, just a temporary fix - as is obvious by now.

 

This must be a common practice. Mine were done the same way.

 

I think Marck was referring to your picture, Dennis.

... and for high school shop students, they did a fairly decent job.

 

Glad my car came from a dry climate. Looks like a very nice job you did

 

I'm glad mine isn't rusted out too! Now I won't B*tch while I'm under mine getting rid of the minor surface rust!

 

looks great