I spent a few hours swapping out the hinge pin and bushings on my 75's driver side door. I don't know if anyone else has ever encountered the challenge I found myself in.... When trying to knock up and out the top hinge pin, I discovered it was about a 1/4 too long. It would not come completely out without hitting either the door or fender. After wrestling it a while.... and After knocking the bottom all the way out... I picked up on the end of the door.... and it directed the head of the pin just enough under the fender to allow me to get it out.

When I installed the new pins from NAPA, I discovered they were a good bit longer. I reinstalled the top pin from the bottom... and used a clip on the pin to keep from ever sliding back out. It was much simplier to install that way, and will be much easier to remove again someday.

BLVette75

 

one trick is to grind down one side of the head of the pin to clear the fender........

b

 

How did you use a pin or clip? Did you drill a hole through the end of the hinge pin? I need to do this repair. I have the NAPA pin and bushing kit sitting on my bench. If it's installed upside down, how will you "pound" it out from above?

Jay

 

I used a clip... similar to ones found on some factory newer cars. For lack of better words... it is held in place by spring tension. NAPA may have them, if not the Chevy dealer will. As for pounding out the pin in the future, a long punch narrow punch will fit down between the door and fender. You will find the NAPA pin is maybe 2" longer than the stock pin. If you install it upside down... like I did... the clip will have plenty of room.

Just to give you a run down on my experience....

I first placed a jack with a 2x4 wood block under the flat part of the door. I knocked out the bottom pin first (no worries there) then I knocked out the top pin. In order to get the top pin out, without damaging the fender or door, I had to lift up on the end of the door enough to angle the top of the pin further under the fender where there was sufficient clearance to knock it all the way out. THIS IS A TWO MAN JOB. After the pin was out, I elected to have one person hold the door on top of the jack and 2x4 since I have electric windows and did not want to disconnect the wiring. While one person held the door steady, the other knocked out the bushing, replaced them, and we guided the door back into place and started the bottom hinge pin first. It is easier to get to.... Then we lined up the top.. and drove it through from the bottom. Even doing it this way, I used about a 6" drift and a nice heavy hammer.

Just a side note.... the pin we removed had been ground flat on one side of the head. However, it still was a very tight squeeze to get it past the fender and door. I beleive you can install your NAPA pins from the top (like the old pin) and not require a clip.... but you will have to grind the head flat on one side.... and more than likely shorten the pin.

Last bit of advice, grind a sharper point on the NAPA pins... it helps....

Good Luck...

BLVette75