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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 12:33 PM
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Default pillar post rust

What would a repair like this entail? I have a rough idea, but would like to hear from an experienced person. I know it willl be expensive, but then what isn't.
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 06:41 PM
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has nobody ever done this?
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 07:21 PM
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Pictures please…. Need to see how bad it really is.
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Old Aug 23, 2005 | 07:47 PM
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it is on my pal's car so I will have to get some pics from him. Thanks
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 11:20 AM
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When I replaced my windsheild I ran across a few holes myself. For the most part the frame was solid and the largest hole was about the size of a dime after a good wire wheel cleaning. I used eastwoods rust encapsulator on the bare metal after cleanup, and fiberglass mat to span the holes. after that was sanded to match the rest of the surface I painted fiberglass resin around the entire sealing surface area and sanded smooth when dry. This gave me a better sealing surface for the butyl (sp?) tape. If the holes were any bigger I think I would have looked into other options, but this method has worked well for me in the past for the small holes.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 12:03 PM
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From: Manchester, Dead Center in the Middle of TN 25 miles to Jack Daniels,10 miles to Geo Dickle, and .8 mile from the Liquor Store at I-24 Exit 114
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I have good experiance using POR 15 to cover light rust holes on metal. I have also used screen to cover large holes and apply it to make a strong repair. The best repair I made was using the POR 15 putty that comes in a tube. It is some kind of tuff stuff. I would rather use the screen and the POR 15 than fiberglass on this type repair.

Try it sometime on a piece of scrap rusted metal, even with a hole use the screen to bridge the hole and the POR 15 will make it solid once again. You can hit it with a hammer and it stays right where it is supposed to and prevents further rust by sealing it up. jim
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 11:42 PM
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Thanks for the info/help. I will pass it along to him.( and obviously) give him a hand too.
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 10:43 AM
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Where can you buy the POR 15 putty? I've found the paint in the usual catalogs but haven't located the putty. I have some small holes that I also need to fill and this sounds perfect.
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Vette Gator
Where can you buy the POR 15 putty? I've found the paint in the usual catalogs but haven't located the putty. I have some small holes that I also need to fill and this sounds perfect.
http://www.por15.com/
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 01:19 PM
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For fixing small holes in the windshield top bar, is the POR Patch or the POR Epoxy Putty the way to go? I'm asking because most of the holes are on the bottom, so the filler will have to dry upside down.
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 01:30 PM
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fillers and puttys are never the best option, grinding and welding in fresh metal is but only if you are prepared to take a good portion of the car apart.
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 01:34 PM
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One way is a band-aid, the other is the cure
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 05:17 PM
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Putty this and that but what about structural concerns?
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 05:26 PM
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Any holes weaken the structure. Vert.owners pay heed. If you have holes and get any "Cowl shake", it will tear up the Pillar/frame up. Weld them up if anything bigger than a pencil can go thru.
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
fillers and puttys are never the best option, grinding and welding in fresh metal is but only if you are prepared to take a good portion of the car apart.
Welding in new metal is best.
... or fill small holes with concentric beads of weld - but more grinding.
Been there - done that.

Forget about the POR Putty - good for large deep voids only.
For very small holes - POR Patch will work well.

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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 06:41 PM
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This is one of my projects too. Any suggestions on how to get the windshield trim off?

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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 01:31 AM
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There are little button head screws behind the weather strip, remove that first and you'll find them
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 04:30 AM
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Replaced the corners and header in the '69. It was about a 2-3 hour job after the trim was removed. I used a drill to drill out the spot welds. I took measurements of everything prior to removal of any parts. Then I welded new parts in. I picked up the corners and header at Paragon. They were the cheapest, and had the best customer service. They shipped the parts very quickly, and were willing to work with me. However, the parts are fairly expensive. Also, you have got the rot down pretty low, mine was up high. The problem with the rot being down at the bottom is there is a possibility that you could have to cut the birdcage below the fender line. I hope you do not have to go there, as this will be considerable work.
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 10:21 AM
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That is the worst of what I can see with the windshield still in place. The rest of the pillar and birdcage looks fine except for some minor surface rust.

The hole in the picture is 1.5" to 2" long and about 0.25" across. I was hoping to be able to just clean up the area area around the hole and use a welder to replace the missing material.
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by '99 Feather
That is the worst of what I can see with the windshield still in place. The rest of the pillar and birdcage looks fine except for some minor surface rust.

The hole in the picture is 1.5" to 2" long and about 0.25" across. I was hoping to be able to just clean up the area area around the hole and use a welder to replace the missing material.
you should be able to do that with a mig welder at set on a low temp.but if you do it that way it will leave exsposed bare metal on the inside of the birdcage from the weld.If your **** like me I would make a patch and take a die grinder and cut a little section out around the rust,before you weld the patch back in buy some weld through primer and spray the backside of the patch,and the inside of the birdcage,then weld.
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