79 L-82 Engine mount
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Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: webster ny
79 L-82 Engine mount
Where is the best place (to put the jack) to safely raise the engine to replace both motor mounts?
Any suggestions or tips for doing this job? (I have never done it before
) Thanks,
Hef
Any suggestions or tips for doing this job? (I have never done it before
) Thanks,Hef
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
Likes: 16
From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
Originally Posted by Hef
Where is the best place (to put the jack) to safely raise the engine to replace both motor mounts?
Any suggestions or tips for doing this job? (I have never done it before ) Thanks,
Hef
Any suggestions or tips for doing this job? (I have never done it before
) Thanks,Hef
I spent a ridiculous amount of time on the first mount, and then the 2nd one was done in about 30 minutes. This is what I found to help speed things up. Put the frame bolt through the mount first and then slowly lower the block onto it. Then jack it back up just enough to give you a little bit of play to align the block bolts. Shallow sockets will help with those block bolts, otherwise you'll have to resort to what I did, jamming paper towel into the socket to reduce the depth and be able to get enough of the bolt sticking through the mount to start it threading into the block.
It's a fairly easy job to do, and I'm still a noob so it must be! Good luck!
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
If they passenger side mount is good just replace the driver side mount with a poly one, has worked great for me the last 2 years. The driver side mount sees almost all the torq so it tends to be the one that fails.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
From: Salem MA
oil pan..
and do both of them and your transmission mount too. my engine tried to escape at the begining of the summer and it was very uncool.... (i dont wanna talk about it)
both mounts and the tranny mount were totally trashed and separated.
tips: do everything loosely and once you get all the bolts in tighten it all up.
dont buy mounts from napa. they WILL sell you the wrong kind.
the rubber ecklers mounts are too thick for the stock bolts. and they dont mail you new bolts despite the picture.
and do both of them and your transmission mount too. my engine tried to escape at the begining of the summer and it was very uncool.... (i dont wanna talk about it)
both mounts and the tranny mount were totally trashed and separated.
tips: do everything loosely and once you get all the bolts in tighten it all up.
dont buy mounts from napa. they WILL sell you the wrong kind.
the rubber ecklers mounts are too thick for the stock bolts. and they dont mail you new bolts despite the picture.
Last edited by not a '76; Aug 31, 2005 at 12:28 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
What FEVRE said is true. I have the energy suspension MM's I bought them from summit Racing. The gold color anodizing made them a tight fit so you have to sand the inner sides to fit over the frame.
Put a wood block on the jack to not dent the pan.
Put a wood block on the jack to not dent the pan.
Last edited by gkull; Aug 31, 2005 at 01:52 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
Likes: 16
From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
The driver's side thing does make sense, that's where most of the wear takes place. Only way to find out is to crawl under and look.
I second the comment on the tranny mount. Mine was separated. Only a year younger than yours, 51,000 on the clock.
I second the comment on the tranny mount. Mine was separated. Only a year younger than yours, 51,000 on the clock.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 101
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From: webster ny
Originally Posted by not a '76
oil pan..
and do both of them and your transmission mount too. my engine tried to escape at the begining of the summer and it was very uncool.... (i dont wanna talk about it)
both mounts and the tranny mount were totally trashed and separated.
tips: do everything loosely and once you get all the bolts in tighten it all up.
dont buy mounts from napa. they WILL sell you the wrong kind.
the rubber ecklers mounts are too thick for the stock bolts. and they dont mail you new bolts despite the picture.
and do both of them and your transmission mount too. my engine tried to escape at the begining of the summer and it was very uncool.... (i dont wanna talk about it)
both mounts and the tranny mount were totally trashed and separated.
tips: do everything loosely and once you get all the bolts in tighten it all up.
dont buy mounts from napa. they WILL sell you the wrong kind.
the rubber ecklers mounts are too thick for the stock bolts. and they dont mail you new bolts despite the picture.
Last edited by Hef; Aug 31, 2005 at 03:45 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: webster ny
One more stupid question - When you replace the engine mounts, do you jack the front of the vehicle up first leaving it on jack stands, then raise the engine with a jack under the oil pan?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
Originally Posted by Hef
One more stupid question - When you replace the engine mounts, do you jack the front of the vehicle up first leaving it on jack stands, then raise the engine with a jack under the oil pan?
As far as moving the tranny goes, jacking the motor will sure as heck move the tranny as well. Get the new engine mount(s) in and logic would follow your tranny will return to the correct position to install the mount.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: San Francisco CA
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Hef
One more stupid question - When you replace the engine mounts, do you jack the front of the vehicle up first leaving it on jack stands, then raise the engine with a jack under the oil pan?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
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From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
Originally Posted by Buffalo Dude
I managed to bolt it to the block before I bolted to the frame, I guess it varies from car to car.
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From: webster ny
Originally Posted by TheKomoman
Jack it up by the oil pan. Your best best is to put a board on top of the jack to spread the load over as big an area as you can.
I spent a ridiculous amount of time on the first mount, and then the 2nd one was done in about 30 minutes. This is what I found to help speed things up. Put the frame bolt through the mount first and then slowly lower the block onto it. Then jack it back up just enough to give you a little bit of play to align the block bolts. Shallow sockets will help with those block bolts, otherwise you'll have to resort to what I did, jamming paper towel into the socket to reduce the depth and be able to get enough of the bolt sticking through the mount to start it threading into the block.
It's a fairly easy job to do, and I'm still a noob so it must be! Good luck!
I spent a ridiculous amount of time on the first mount, and then the 2nd one was done in about 30 minutes. This is what I found to help speed things up. Put the frame bolt through the mount first and then slowly lower the block onto it. Then jack it back up just enough to give you a little bit of play to align the block bolts. Shallow sockets will help with those block bolts, otherwise you'll have to resort to what I did, jamming paper towel into the socket to reduce the depth and be able to get enough of the bolt sticking through the mount to start it threading into the block.
It's a fairly easy job to do, and I'm still a noob so it must be! Good luck!
I have the jack under the pan, and 3 out of 4 bolts out. The one block bolt that is also holding in the pwr steering pump bracket is being a pain in the butt. I am finding out that a long 3/8 ext may be the ticket. Not alot of room for hands etc with the pwr steer hoses in the way.
Can the engine mount be bad without a visual indication looking at it on the vehicle? My tranny mount was obviously bad.......
Race Director
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From: San Francisco CA
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Hef
Can the engine mount be bad without a visual indication looking at it on the vehicle? My tranny mount was obviously bad.......
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: webster ny
crap I guess I am just an idiot...
I finally got the engine mount out (and it wasnt broken)
fit the new one in, and screwed in all three engine block bolts about half way. I then lowered the engine down to put the large bolt in. Bad move I guess with the engine block bolts still being loose because the the engine mount broke when I lowered the engine back down. So now I need to remove the broken new part and do it again. Geesh! I stepped away from the car after I saw what I did. I need a break.
What bothers me even more is that the original engine mount was not broke. So that means something else is causing my problems. Great.
I finally got the engine mount out (and it wasnt broken)
fit the new one in, and screwed in all three engine block bolts about half way. I then lowered the engine down to put the large bolt in. Bad move I guess with the engine block bolts still being loose because the the engine mount broke when I lowered the engine back down. So now I need to remove the broken new part and do it again. Geesh! I stepped away from the car after I saw what I did. I need a break.
What bothers me even more is that the original engine mount was not broke. So that means something else is causing my problems. Great.
