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Where is the best place (to put the jack) to safely raise the engine to replace both motor mounts?
Any suggestions or tips for doing this job? (I have never done it before ) Thanks,
Hef
Where is the best place (to put the jack) to safely raise the engine to replace both motor mounts?
Any suggestions or tips for doing this job? (I have never done it before ) Thanks,
Hef
Jack it up by the oil pan. Your best best is to put a board on top of the jack to spread the load over as big an area as you can.
I spent a ridiculous amount of time on the first mount, and then the 2nd one was done in about 30 minutes. This is what I found to help speed things up. Put the frame bolt through the mount first and then slowly lower the block onto it. Then jack it back up just enough to give you a little bit of play to align the block bolts. Shallow sockets will help with those block bolts, otherwise you'll have to resort to what I did, jamming paper towel into the socket to reduce the depth and be able to get enough of the bolt sticking through the mount to start it threading into the block.
It's a fairly easy job to do, and I'm still a noob so it must be! Good luck!
If they passenger side mount is good just replace the driver side mount with a poly one, has worked great for me the last 2 years. The driver side mount sees almost all the torq so it tends to be the one that fails.
and do both of them and your transmission mount too. my engine tried to escape at the begining of the summer and it was very uncool.... (i dont wanna talk about it)
both mounts and the tranny mount were totally trashed and separated.
tips: do everything loosely and once you get all the bolts in tighten it all up.
dont buy mounts from napa. they WILL sell you the wrong kind.
the rubber ecklers mounts are too thick for the stock bolts. and they dont mail you new bolts despite the picture.
Last edited by not a '76; Aug 31, 2005 at 12:28 PM.
What FEVRE said is true. I have the energy suspension MM's I bought them from summit Racing. The gold color anodizing made them a tight fit so you have to sand the inner sides to fit over the frame.
and do both of them and your transmission mount too. my engine tried to escape at the begining of the summer and it was very uncool.... (i dont wanna talk about it)
both mounts and the tranny mount were totally trashed and separated.
tips: do everything loosely and once you get all the bolts in tighten it all up.
dont buy mounts from napa. they WILL sell you the wrong kind.
the rubber ecklers mounts are too thick for the stock bolts. and they dont mail you new bolts despite the picture.
Well I think I dodged a bullet because I first realized I had a problem when I was under the car and saw my tranny mount was broken. Then, when I tried to replace the tranny mount, I was not able to line up the new mount with the bracket. (lateral missalignment due to the transmission) So I started thinking, and I am pretty sure I have a broken engine mount, that caused the tranny mount to bust. My fan hits the shroud on right hand turns, and I noticed the other day a slight interference mark on the inside of the hood, drivers side where the intake air cowling is hitting. Sounds like I could of had a major disaster.
One more stupid question - When you replace the engine mounts, do you jack the front of the vehicle up first leaving it on jack stands, then raise the engine with a jack under the oil pan?
One more stupid question - When you replace the engine mounts, do you jack the front of the vehicle up first leaving it on jack stands, then raise the engine with a jack under the oil pan?
That's what I did, yep.
As far as moving the tranny goes, jacking the motor will sure as heck move the tranny as well. Get the new engine mount(s) in and logic would follow your tranny will return to the correct position to install the mount.
One more stupid question - When you replace the engine mounts, do you jack the front of the vehicle up first leaving it on jack stands, then raise the engine with a jack under the oil pan?
I didn't have jack stands, so I left the car on the ground. I can squeeze under the car, but it's very uncomfortable. Everyone recommended the Energy Suspension urethane mounts and they look really good. I used a jack under the oil pan with a plank of wood. I managed to bolt it to the block before I bolted to the frame, I guess it varies from car to car. The ES mounts add another plate between the mount and block, so what I did was (temporarily) use the spacer plate from the trans mount to space the PS bracket so I could slide in the engine mount.
I managed to bolt it to the block before I bolted to the frame, I guess it varies from car to car.
Ooops... actually I did too. I only slid the bolt into place to help align the mount. Once I jacked the motor back up just a little I removed that bolt and put the block bolts in, then lowered it back down and secured the frame bolt.
Jack it up by the oil pan. Your best best is to put a board on top of the jack to spread the load over as big an area as you can.
I spent a ridiculous amount of time on the first mount, and then the 2nd one was done in about 30 minutes. This is what I found to help speed things up. Put the frame bolt through the mount first and then slowly lower the block onto it. Then jack it back up just enough to give you a little bit of play to align the block bolts. Shallow sockets will help with those block bolts, otherwise you'll have to resort to what I did, jamming paper towel into the socket to reduce the depth and be able to get enough of the bolt sticking through the mount to start it threading into the block.
It's a fairly easy job to do, and I'm still a noob so it must be! Good luck!
Well I started the job this afternoon - so far about 1 hour into it. Looking at the engine mounts they look ok. I have to believe the driver side is bad based on my symptoms (see above) so I am going to replace them both anyway.
I have the jack under the pan, and 3 out of 4 bolts out. The one block bolt that is also holding in the pwr steering pump bracket is being a pain in the butt. I am finding out that a long 3/8 ext may be the ticket. Not alot of room for hands etc with the pwr steer hoses in the way.
Can the engine mount be bad without a visual indication looking at it on the vehicle? My tranny mount was obviously bad.......
crap I guess I am just an idiot...
I finally got the engine mount out (and it wasnt broken)
fit the new one in, and screwed in all three engine block bolts about half way. I then lowered the engine down to put the large bolt in. Bad move I guess with the engine block bolts still being loose because the the engine mount broke when I lowered the engine back down. So now I need to remove the broken new part and do it again. Geesh! I stepped away from the car after I saw what I did. I need a break.
What bothers me even more is that the original engine mount was not broke. So that means something else is causing my problems. Great.