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'79 Door Lock Question - Help!

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Old Sep 16, 2005 | 05:59 PM
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Default '79 Door Lock Question - Help!

I can no longer unlock my passenger side door, either from the inside or the outside by using the key. It does not appear that I can get the inside door panel off with the door closed. However, there is an oval cut-out at the rear of the door that gives access to the latch mechanism from the inside. Is there something I can do here to manually unlatch the door from the insde so that I can open the door? Any help is appreciated! Thanks!

Elizabeth
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Old Sep 16, 2005 | 06:43 PM
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C3's are relatively easy to jimmy open.

If you can get some sort of wedge between the window and the rubber seal on the door, you can get a flashlite and see down in. If you can't dont worry, you can still do it, but you'll be working blind. You'll need a coat hanger bent with a small "J" at the end. If you can look down in there, there is a small lever on the lock itself at the latch. That is normally controlled by rods that are attached to it. Sometimes they come off when you lose the little clip that holds them on (they can be purchased at your local auto store in the "HELP" section). just get the hanger down in there and try to catch that lever and pull up. It may take some time and patience, but it can be done. Once you get the door open, there is a clip that holds the window crank on (kind of like a "C" clip if you have manual windows). Get that off and the handle comes off. Once that's off the rest is a piece of cake.

Good luck!!!!

Been there done that.

P.S. the jimmying is from the OUTSIDE of the car.

Last edited by 79MakoL82; Sep 16, 2005 at 06:47 PM.
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Old Sep 16, 2005 | 06:56 PM
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Good advice from mako above. You might also open the window all the way and make it even easier.
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Old Sep 16, 2005 | 10:30 PM
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or ask any 16 yr old, they seem to know all the tricks when it comes to locked doors
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Old Sep 16, 2005 | 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 79MakoL82
C3's are relatively easy to jimmy open.

If you can get some sort of wedge between the window and the rubber seal on the door, you can get a flashlite and see down in. If you can't dont worry, you can still do it, but you'll be working blind. You'll need a coat hanger bent with a small "J" at the end. If you can look down in there, there is a small lever on the lock itself at the latch. That is normally controlled by rods that are attached to it. Sometimes they come off when you lose the little clip that holds them on (they can be purchased at your local auto store in the "HELP" section). just get the hanger down in there and try to catch that lever and pull up. It may take some time and patience, but it can be done. Once you get the door open, there is a clip that holds the window crank on (kind of like a "C" clip if you have manual windows). Get that off and the handle comes off. Once that's off the rest is a piece of cake.

Good luck!!!!

Been there done that.

P.S. the jimmying is from the OUTSIDE of the car.
The above commentary is not necessarily true. This commentary assumes that the internal latch mechanisms are still functioning. The internal door latch mechanism has a pivot with three lever arms attached. The lower arm is the trigger arm. When the door is closed with the latch curved finger wrapped against the body striker, the trigger lever will move counterclockwise, contact the latch trigger and pop the latch mechanism into the open position. When the door is closed and unlocked, either the internal door open handle, or the external door open handle will move the middle internal lever in a counterclockwise motion. It will contact the trigger lever, cause the trigger level to move slightly counerclosckwise and cause the door to pop open. It's the top lever that can be the real trouble maker. It's the lock lever. The lock lever acts as a de-railler. In the lock position, it repositions the second lever (the middle lever) so that when it moves counterclockwise, it will not contact the trigger lever and thereby will not cause an unlock. If there's an internal jam where the lock de-railler function cannot be removed, the door cannot be jimmed open by toggling the lock/unlock lever. (It the horizontal lever that you see when you hold the latch in your hand.)

It is possible to get a shim deep into the door to activate the trigger mechanism. To attempt to get to the trigger mechanism, you have to remove the latch from an operating door to see exactly where you have to probe to hit the trigger . It took me hours to get a trigger.
Once again, this shimming activity is NOT the activity that a tow truck driver will be attempting. (Sorry, I'm just going to have to learn how to post photos!!)
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Old Sep 17, 2005 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 68/70Vette
The above commentary is not necessarily true. This commentary assumes that the internal latch mechanisms are still functioning. The internal door latch mechanism has a pivot with three lever arms attached. The lower arm is the trigger arm. When the door is closed with the latch curved finger wrapped against the body striker, the trigger lever will move counterclockwise, contact the latch trigger and pop the latch mechanism into the open position. When the door is closed and unlocked, either the internal door open handle, or the external door open handle will move the middle internal lever in a counterclockwise motion. It will contact the trigger lever, cause the trigger level to move slightly counerclosckwise and cause the door to pop open. It's the top lever that can be the real trouble maker. It's the lock lever. The lock lever acts as a de-railler. In the lock position, it repositions the second lever (the middle lever) so that when it moves counterclockwise, it will not contact the trigger lever and thereby will not cause an unlock. If there's an internal jam where the lock de-railler function cannot be removed, the door cannot be jimmed open by toggling the lock/unlock lever. (It the horizontal lever that you see when you hold the latch in your hand.)

It is possible to get a shim deep into the door to activate the trigger mechanism. To attempt to get to the trigger mechanism, you have to remove the latch from an operating door to see exactly where you have to probe to hit the trigger . It took me hours to get a trigger.
Once again, this shimming activity is NOT the activity that a tow truck driver will be attempting. (Sorry, I'm just going to have to learn how to post photos!!)
The above commentary is not necessarily true if the problem is what I said. Neither will be true if someone has filled your door with cement as well, or if tiny aliens have set up shop in your door lock and have built a whole new world, stopping the mechanism from working.

Sorry for the sarcasm, but either could be true. The more common problem is the clip coming off the rod. I usually start with the basics first. Before I amputate the foot, I see if I can cure the infection.
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Old Sep 17, 2005 | 11:43 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions! Mako, I saw the lever you are referring to by comparing it to the working door. I attempted to unlatch it for a short time last night but had to leave.

Here's some more inof that may clear up exactly what I need to do. The problem was first noticed when I went to open the door from the outside and nothing happened. I pressed the handle and zilch, as if it were looked. Firguring it was locked, it put the key in and turned each direction and tried to open it. Unfortunately, I locked it and was then unable to unlock it. I believe it was initially unlocked and wouldn't open, then I locked it and now it won't unlock. It probably more complicated than I originally explained in the first post.

Thanks again!

Elizabeth
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Old Sep 17, 2005 | 12:55 PM
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If you can see the lever, look to see if the rod is attached. If the rod is attached, it probably is more complicated i.e. what 68/70 vette said. if the rod is not attached, try what I suggested and it will pobably open. Just a tip, use needle nose pliers to make the "J" on the coat hanger as small as you can. Maybe a 1/4". Then you can hook in to the hole where the rod normally attaches.

Good luck
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