console repair glue/epoxy?
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Connecticut, USA
console repair glue/epoxy?
Anyone know a good type of adhesive I can use to repair the plastic frame on the shifter counsole? I have a few cracks in it and would like to keep it because I haven't seen how the aftermarket ones fit.
Thanks,
Gary
Thanks,
Gary
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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I use thick epoxy glue to repair stuff like that but I haven't seen anything similar for sale over in the US, the west systems and similar products all have to be thickened w/ balloons and fibers, the stuff I use looks like thick yellow snot and it's very strong. In fact, I tried it by bonding 2 strips of steel together and did a distructive test and the steel cracked while the bond was still fine. It's the yellow stuff used to bond this little fiberglass panel into the big old hole in the firewall. I used this stuff along w/ mat & resin to fix my entire firewall ( lots of cracks and holes and the thing was split into 2 large sections straight down the middle)
It sands reasonably well but it is very tough, takes a lot of sanding but because it's so thick you can smear it out and actually make shapes with it, if you let it dry a little it becomes putty like and can be formed to cure to the desired shape.
The stuff is called thyxotropic (which means peanut butter like consistency) epoxy glue, both the base and hardener are thick.
It sands reasonably well but it is very tough, takes a lot of sanding but because it's so thick you can smear it out and actually make shapes with it, if you let it dry a little it becomes putty like and can be formed to cure to the desired shape.
The stuff is called thyxotropic (which means peanut butter like consistency) epoxy glue, both the base and hardener are thick.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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hazmat. I don't think it can be shipped by air but if it can be shipped I'd be more than happy to send some. The stuff is not cheap though. 40$ for 1 kg or something.
Just checked: 29 euros, about 35$ ...
http://www.allesvoordeboot.nl/index....rget=d827.html
Just checked: 29 euros, about 35$ ...
http://www.allesvoordeboot.nl/index....rget=d827.html
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,188
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From: Connecticut, USA
TT thanks for the offer but I want to get this done this week so I can get back to the A/C retrofit. I'm sure I can find something locally.
Tom, yes I'll be addressing this from the back. Not sure what type of plastic they used but it does seem brittle. Look fine from the outside and probably has been like that for the past 20 years.
Gary
Tom, yes I'll be addressing this from the back. Not sure what type of plastic they used but it does seem brittle. Look fine from the outside and probably has been like that for the past 20 years.
Gary
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 328
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From: Dallas County Texas
Most of the two part epoxies worked well for me
When I did my huge dash modification I used a good 20 tubes of various types. Unlike experiences years ago, only one or two types didn't work well. I have more problems using them in open applications - even when refinished, it seems difficult for me to get matching appearance, but it does sand and file decently.
I used several that resemble what TT describes - thick snotty stuff. Some types take 5 mins to mainly set, some as long as 10. After I did that hellish project, although I love the all digital dash (and extra dash top console) I really wished I had just spent a couple hundred dollars on new housings, brackets, and such though.
One type I seem to remember getting consistently disappointing results with is the "titanium" type sold by "Oh, Really's?" I got good results from the blue component one - also IIRC. (I use a ton of this stuff regularly - mainly buying from the local Ace Hardware, rather than parts houses.)
I used several that resemble what TT describes - thick snotty stuff. Some types take 5 mins to mainly set, some as long as 10. After I did that hellish project, although I love the all digital dash (and extra dash top console) I really wished I had just spent a couple hundred dollars on new housings, brackets, and such though.
One type I seem to remember getting consistently disappointing results with is the "titanium" type sold by "Oh, Really's?" I got good results from the blue component one - also IIRC. (I use a ton of this stuff regularly - mainly buying from the local Ace Hardware, rather than parts houses.)
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Michael S. Palmer
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
What about using just the Fiberglass resin & hardner? No fiberglass. Pretty hard stuff. Use a lot of hardner and it'll set up quick.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
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From: Connecticut, USA
Ed,
Mines not that bad so I should be able to save it. Did you do thsi job eating breakfast, or did you add Aunt Jemima's to the glue!
Len,
I don't know if the resin would stick to the palstic that was used? If it was fiberglass I could repair it pretty good.
Mines not that bad so I should be able to save it. Did you do thsi job eating breakfast, or did you add Aunt Jemima's to the glue!
Len,
I don't know if the resin would stick to the palstic that was used? If it was fiberglass I could repair it pretty good.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 677
Likes: 5
From: Cary North Carolina
with jugheadI used fiberglass resin on mine. It was cracked along the turn downs on both sides and had a broken tab. I used resin and some cut up mat along the cracks and also reconstructed the tab. Better than new. I don't have any pictures of the inside, but here is the top side.
I also repaired my cracked brake console the same way.
You can stand on it now.
Last edited by GATOR454; Sep 27, 2005 at 05:40 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,101
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From: NorCal
I used the finest fiberglass cloth I could find and repaired mine from the inside with it completely out. It was broken up as badly as the above tan one, if not worse. Nice part was it was easy to trim the excess befor it hardened all the way and looks great. Bomb proof now, and fits perfect.
Hans
Hans
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Midlothian VA
Originally Posted by GATOR454
with jugheadI used fiberglass resin on mine. It was cracked along the turn downs on both sides and had a broken tab. I used resin and some cut up mat along the cracks and also reconstructed the tab. Better than new.
Repaired mine from the inside too using resin & hardener. I also used it to reseat the molded studs in on the underside of the armrest. Two layers of glass and a small puddle of resin and it's better than new. Doesn't matter how neat you are cause nobody is gonna see it. If it's your first try with resin & hardener this is the best place to do it. Once you see how well it works you'll use it like a hammer at a nail party.
