dead battery
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 40
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dead battery
I know there has been a few posts on the battery disconnect on here. My question is that I have a 1974 coupe that I just purchased in August. The battery was new/ aftermarket no brand. It has side post mounting,
How does one get a battery disconnect on with so little room in the battery compartment. 2nd. I only drive about once a week and it seems every time I go to start I have a dead battery. Next solution was battery tender, that seemed to work for a couple of weeks, but now it never goes to a full charge(green light). When driving the meter seems to be just a slight notch on the positive side of zero. Not sure how acurrate these older gages are. So I am thinking of replacing battery any ideas about what others have installed and been happy with size type brand etc. would be appreciated or any other ideas that may be out there on how to keep battery alive and well. Am I also way off base in thinking that in 1974 this vehicle would not of had side post battery, and previous owner must of put in different cables. Please help with your ideas. I always had a dream of this vintage car, but ssems to be one thing after another. Just looking for advice
How does one get a battery disconnect on with so little room in the battery compartment. 2nd. I only drive about once a week and it seems every time I go to start I have a dead battery. Next solution was battery tender, that seemed to work for a couple of weeks, but now it never goes to a full charge(green light). When driving the meter seems to be just a slight notch on the positive side of zero. Not sure how acurrate these older gages are. So I am thinking of replacing battery any ideas about what others have installed and been happy with size type brand etc. would be appreciated or any other ideas that may be out there on how to keep battery alive and well. Am I also way off base in thinking that in 1974 this vehicle would not of had side post battery, and previous owner must of put in different cables. Please help with your ideas. I always had a dream of this vintage car, but ssems to be one thing after another. Just looking for advice
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Side posts were standard - even in 1970. (Corvettes are always ahead of the rest of the cars).
In my experience, if the car and battery are all OK, the needle on the battery gauge is about 1 needle width to the right of straight up. As the batteries get older, the needle will go to about 3/4 after you crank it for a while to start, then eventually return to the almost straight up position as the alternator charges it up. Finally, if the battery is shot, it will show charging all the time.
Are there any continuous drains on the battery? The clock is a drain, but is usually too little to affect anything. How about a stereo or some other power amplifier that is draining the battery? There could be some old wires that are shorting out.
In my experience, if the car and battery are all OK, the needle on the battery gauge is about 1 needle width to the right of straight up. As the batteries get older, the needle will go to about 3/4 after you crank it for a while to start, then eventually return to the almost straight up position as the alternator charges it up. Finally, if the battery is shot, it will show charging all the time.
Are there any continuous drains on the battery? The clock is a drain, but is usually too little to affect anything. How about a stereo or some other power amplifier that is draining the battery? There could be some old wires that are shorting out.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Look here
Originally Posted by smkunder
I know there has been a few posts on the battery disconnect on here. My question is that I have a 1974 coupe that I just purchased in August. The battery was new/ aftermarket no brand. It has side post mounting,
How does one get a battery disconnect on with so little room in the battery compartment. 2nd. I only drive about once a week and it seems every time I go to start I have a dead battery. Next solution was battery tender, that seemed to work for a couple of weeks, but now it never goes to a full charge(green light). When driving the meter seems to be just a slight notch on the positive side of zero. Not sure how acurrate these older gages are. So I am thinking of replacing battery any ideas about what others have installed and been happy with size type brand etc. would be appreciated or any other ideas that may be out there on how to keep battery alive and well. Am I also way off base in thinking that in 1974 this vehicle would not of had side post battery, and previous owner must of put in different cables. Please help with your ideas. I always had a dream of this vintage car, but ssems to be one thing after another. Just looking for advice
How does one get a battery disconnect on with so little room in the battery compartment. 2nd. I only drive about once a week and it seems every time I go to start I have a dead battery. Next solution was battery tender, that seemed to work for a couple of weeks, but now it never goes to a full charge(green light). When driving the meter seems to be just a slight notch on the positive side of zero. Not sure how acurrate these older gages are. So I am thinking of replacing battery any ideas about what others have installed and been happy with size type brand etc. would be appreciated or any other ideas that may be out there on how to keep battery alive and well. Am I also way off base in thinking that in 1974 this vehicle would not of had side post battery, and previous owner must of put in different cables. Please help with your ideas. I always had a dream of this vintage car, but ssems to be one thing after another. Just looking for advice
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....P63111129850g~
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 40
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Thanks for replies, looks like I have two problems,
Reason I cannot get disconnect on, previous owner had battery installed with posts facing front of vehicle, if I am reading assembly manual correct it appears that posts should be rearward. Is that correct and then are cables long enough? 2nd, it appears that although battery is fairly new it must have a short in it, getting it load checked tomorrrow. Any rcomendations on replacement battery for L48 small block no A/C
Thanks
Reason I cannot get disconnect on, previous owner had battery installed with posts facing front of vehicle, if I am reading assembly manual correct it appears that posts should be rearward. Is that correct and then are cables long enough? 2nd, it appears that although battery is fairly new it must have a short in it, getting it load checked tomorrrow. Any rcomendations on replacement battery for L48 small block no A/C
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
Get the knife switch type of cutoff at Advance Auto Parts for about $25. The **** type often get corrosion build-up and cause problems. If you get the correct size battery there will be room at the left rear to install and operate the knife switch. You probably need a group 75 battery. My 79 book calls for a rating of 570 cold cranking amps on AC cars. NAPA batteries are made by Exide and you can choose from a variety of warantee periods and ratings depending on how much you want to spend. I just replaced my 7 year old Exide with a NAPA-hoping for the same service! Good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Look for electrical problems before buying a new battery. I (apparently) had a mild short in my starter, and the car ate batteries like a kid eating jellybeans. It even destroyed an Optima red-top in 3 years. New starter, problem solved. I have a cut-off, and never use it now since there is no longer a drain. If your system is showing a drain, start pulling fuses until it stops - getting a multimeter to test systems is also a good idea.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 6
From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
My new battery kept going dead after sitting for about 3 days. I went nuts checking for a short. I found that IF I did not SECURELY close the center rear storage well (glove box?) that the little light stayed on. I now make SURE that the door is closed completely and the battery stays good "forever".
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 13
From: Sudbury MA
I use the battery tender on all my vehicles and have never had a problem. Some of my cars sit for 6-8 months at a time without running and turn over like new when I try to start them because the battery tender keeps the battery up without cooking it. It sounds like you have another problem because the battery should not be draining that fast.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 40
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Well I did get a new battery, I took the old one to shop and it failed load test. I am still confused about orientation of battery. Should posts be facing rear or front of car? I must be mis reading my assembly manual because it appears in that their diagram that posts face rear, but there is no way my negative cable will reach facing rearward. I know it sounds like a dumb question but I want to get it right.
Thanks
Steve
Thanks
Steve
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 13
From: Sudbury MA
smkunder,
Is it possible that a prior owner moved and routed the cables through the wrong holes in the battery compartment to make them reach a front facing battery? In other words, if you place the battery into the battery compartment with the posts facing rear, shouldn't your negative cable go through the floor on the left side of the battery and down to the frame? (positive goes through on the righ and runs down the trans tunnel) Also, maybe a prior owner used shorter cables that were not factory originals.
Just guessing here on why your cables might not reach,
Kurt
Is it possible that a prior owner moved and routed the cables through the wrong holes in the battery compartment to make them reach a front facing battery? In other words, if you place the battery into the battery compartment with the posts facing rear, shouldn't your negative cable go through the floor on the left side of the battery and down to the frame? (positive goes through on the righ and runs down the trans tunnel) Also, maybe a prior owner used shorter cables that were not factory originals.
Just guessing here on why your cables might not reach,
Kurt
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,342
Likes: 2
From: Dayton Area Ohio
St. Jude Donor '08
My posts face the rear as yours do. "78"
I mounted a racing style cutoff switch behind the drivers seat. That way I don't have to get in the battery compartment. The reason I put it there my T-tops strap down and I have to move them to get in the battery compartment.
I mounted a racing style cutoff switch behind the drivers seat. That way I don't have to get in the battery compartment. The reason I put it there my T-tops strap down and I have to move them to get in the battery compartment.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
The posts should face the rear.
If you have a drain, the kill switch is just a band-aid. You have an electrical problem somewhere. Taking time to find and fix it is better than having your 'Vette burn to the ground because of a short.
If you have a drain, the kill switch is just a band-aid. You have an electrical problem somewhere. Taking time to find and fix it is better than having your 'Vette burn to the ground because of a short.
