Anyone ever replaced the entire front fender on their Vett? Have any picture to show what you did? What about alighment and gluing the inner fender ect?
Tom

 

And I have no pictures. Test fit everything before bonding. Scuff all surfaces where there will be a bonding adhesive connection. If you are using the old bonding strip without removing it from the hood surround, make sure that the exposed part is clean and scuffed to accept new adhesive. If you are using a new strip, clean under the hood surround so that your new strip will bond well. Clamp the bonding strip in place loosely, and then drill holes for sheet metal screws about 12 to 18 inches apart so that you can use screws with washers as clamps while the adhesive sets up. Align and bond the new strip to the hood surround, cleaning off any excess adhesive. When the bondingstrip is in place, align the new fender panel and drill holes through the fender and the strip to align the panel and hold it in placewhen you apply the bonding adhesive. Make sure the inner fender is in place before bonding the outer fender panel. to the bonding strip, cowl and lower birdcage. The front alignment will be determined naturally by the inner fender attachment to the radiator support. The rear will be a little more free hand, but be sure to attach the splash shield when trial fitting to insure that it will clear the frame. You can take some rough measurements of the other fender to get a relative location. When the fender has setup in place, bond the inner to the fender panel. You can use the screw clamp method into the bonding lip on the inner fender if you think it is necessary. When the screws have been removed, fibreglass your screw holes, fill the bonding strip seam with filler, and prepare the surface for finishing.

Orville

 

I will be starting this prodject soon and am trying to get as much informnation as possible.
Tom

 

Forgot to mention, that the fender panel will need to be riveted to the body at the bottom just in front of the door.

Orville

 

We haven't used screws for a long time, we use 1-1/2 inch wide masking tape to hold the fender to the surround, and clamps at the lower sill bond. This makes less work, no holes to fill or shrinkage that will appear after a few months. Just position the fender and tape every 3 inches across the span, vertical strips about 10 inches long, maybe 20 or so will do fine. G/L

 

You have more hands in your shop than I have in mine Big G. I knew the professionals would have some way of avoiding screws or temporary rivets and the extra work involved. Maybe you could do a tech paper with photos the next time the opportunity arises. I'm old but willing to learn.

Orville