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I have an L82 aluminum intake that needs cleaning it is off the car and not polished. I have cleaned it with degreaser and now want to get the white look back.
On some of my restorations I have taken my parts to a local sand blast shop where you can rent a booth for $1.25 / minute. I use the glass bead (not the sand or oxide) booth on aluminum parts, use brake clean on the parts to remove any oils and dirt and the used a high temp engine clear coat paint on them. I have had the parts on the cars for several years and they still look great after many miles.
On some of my restorations I have taken my parts to a local sand blast shop where you can rent a booth for $1.25 / minute. I use the glass bead (not the sand or oxide) booth on aluminum parts, use brake clean on the parts to remove any oils and dirt and the used a high temp engine clear coat paint on them. I have had the parts on the cars for several years and they still look great after many miles.
David
David,
Thanks for the tip. Never thought of clearing it, I did not think clear would stay on the aluminum.
I've used two different manufacturers high heat clear paint on aluminum and BOTH eventually turned yellow. One turned yellow in only 6 months. I'd leave it bare.
Eddie
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'07-'09
Some other options, get the intake ceramic coated and it will always stay nice. Or clean it on the car with some heavy duty aluminum cleaner that is save for the car. Some cleaners I have used on intakes, transmissions etc are an" AC coil cleaner" available at most hardware stores and a an "aluminum boat cleaner". Available at any boat supply stores. Most are packed in quarts and cost about $11. Spray it on, let it soak a while and if you scrub with a small brass brush it will come amazingly bright. But again it will not last unless it is sealed or clear coated
best o luck
Mark
Yes, glass beading is the best way to go. Eastwood products has a clearcoat that may work for a while. This is the best way for original look. The gentleman that suggested ceramic coating is the longest and toughest and the inside runners can be coated. Intakes always have a way of getting dirty in the bolt areas.
Good Luck
Steve
Yes, glass beading is the best way to go. Eastwood products has a clearcoat that may work for a while. This is the best way for original look. The gentleman that suggested ceramic coating is the longest and toughest and the inside runners can be coated. Intakes always have a way of getting dirty in the bolt areas.
Good Luck
Steve
The clearcoat spray that Eastwood sells (at least, the stuff in an aerosol can) sucks. I sprayed it on one of the pots for our SU carburetors after I'd gotten done buffing/polishing to a mirror shine, and then the stuff left a yellowish haze over it. I ended up having to clean it off and re-polishing it. I've put some Autosol on it to help kinda seal it, and it's been clean like that for about 6 months now. I have to go back and do a light buff on it when the car goes to the shows, but other than that, it looks pretty good.
As for getting a "hazed/dull" finish look, go for the media blasted look. Try to stay away from the sand or crushed walnut shell unless it's REALLY caked with grease; those mediums will strip it fairly quickly. Same goes with the aluminum oxide, although it's finer than the sand; glass bead would probably be ideal.
I'm fortunate enough to own my own media blasting cabinet (some guy was selling a large drum-type one at a yard sale, and my dad bought it - $95 for a blasting cabinet valued at $400) and have been doing the blasting myself. It's really easy, actually! Only thing you need to keep an eye on is moisture in the line.