Which torque wrench? Beam or "Click" style
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 559
Likes: 0
From: James Island South Carolina
Which torque wrench? Beam or "Click" style
I'm not sure if this should be in General, so I apologize in advance...
Which style torque wrench do you prefer or deem more reliable? The Beam or "Click" style? Upon seeing mine (click 1/2"), a local engine builder and racer told me he doesn't trust them, mainly due to losing their calibration. I know you're supposed to set them back to zero after use, to avoid this though.
Also, for engine buiilding purposes do you use 3/8 or 1/2'' drive wrenches? Thanks for any input!
Which style torque wrench do you prefer or deem more reliable? The Beam or "Click" style? Upon seeing mine (click 1/2"), a local engine builder and racer told me he doesn't trust them, mainly due to losing their calibration. I know you're supposed to set them back to zero after use, to avoid this though.
Also, for engine buiilding purposes do you use 3/8 or 1/2'' drive wrenches? Thanks for any input!
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
Likes: 7
From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
Click type...I have three....Proto that I've had since the late 60's and still accurate, Craftsman that is a piece of junk...at times won't click when the proper torque is reached, and a $12.50 Harbor Freight clicker, that is as accurate as my Proto. Have the H.F. for 1.5 years and still clickin'.
Get the 1/2"
Get the 1/2"
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,426
Likes: 1
From: VetteMOD
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
I think beam wrenches are hard to use on high torque fasteners like head bolts. You have to be able to see the pointer and that puts you in a poor position to get much leverage. I use my beam wrench to check the calibration of my click wrench.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Personally I prefer the clicker type. You can send the things off and have them checked once a year to ensure they are still in calibration. Having said that, you will not use the torque wrench nearly as often as your mechanic should. I have both, 3/8 and 1/2 drive torque wrenches also. Both of them came from Sears and I have had them for around 8 years and both of them have problems that Sears will not warranty. Buy from someone else besides Sears. Lowes or Home Depot actually sells one that is made in USA but I cannot remember which store it is offhand.
Whew!!
Whew!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 914
Likes: 14
From: Aberdeen, Scotland
Clicker!
I only use the click type. I have craftsman and another american brand .. ATI, maybe. I think I purchased them from Eastwood and I prefer them to Craftsman.
I have a selection of sizes that I use; of course. However a set of those $ "Sidewinder" ratchets is VERY handy. Sometimes its hard to beat 1/4" for tight spots....
carbster
I have a selection of sizes that I use; of course. However a set of those $ "Sidewinder" ratchets is VERY handy. Sometimes its hard to beat 1/4" for tight spots....
carbster
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,041
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
Most of the name brand manufacturers guarntee their click torque wrenches to be +-4 percent while the beam style from the same manufacturer will be guarnteed to be within +-2 percent.
A bit of dirt or rust on the inner beam of the click type wrench can cause a variation in the reading that you will never notice.
All of that said the click type wrench is much easier for most of us to use. For most work it is only important to have all of the hardware torqued to the same amount and the exact amount is not as important. This is not the case in building engines or rear ends so you will find people involved in those chores either using beam type wrenches or they have a torque wrench checking tool on site for their click type wrenches.
A bit of dirt or rust on the inner beam of the click type wrench can cause a variation in the reading that you will never notice.
All of that said the click type wrench is much easier for most of us to use. For most work it is only important to have all of the hardware torqued to the same amount and the exact amount is not as important. This is not the case in building engines or rear ends so you will find people involved in those chores either using beam type wrenches or they have a torque wrench checking tool on site for their click type wrenches.
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Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 12,065
Likes: 2
From: Smalltownville Michigan
Cruise-In 5, 6 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
at work (air force--work on stealth bomber) we use click type only. we have them calibrated at certian intervals. we have some set rules that we observe to keep them in calibration:
1. if it is cased and dropped, it can be used until calibration time if it has been dropped from a distance of less than 3 feet
2. if it has been dropped while uncased, the max distance it can be dropped before calibration is required is 6 inches.
3. do not use a torque wrench in it's lower 20% of it's calibrated range. Ex: if you have a 30-150 inlb wrench, dont use it for anything below 54 inlbs. go for a smaller torque wrench.
4. prior to use, break the torque wrench thru with it on it's lowest calibrated setting. This ensures that the star wheel inside it is lubricated properly. Proper lubrication= accurate torque.
being a quality assurance inspector, i have to be aware of all the little nuances and rules...
1. if it is cased and dropped, it can be used until calibration time if it has been dropped from a distance of less than 3 feet
2. if it has been dropped while uncased, the max distance it can be dropped before calibration is required is 6 inches.
3. do not use a torque wrench in it's lower 20% of it's calibrated range. Ex: if you have a 30-150 inlb wrench, dont use it for anything below 54 inlbs. go for a smaller torque wrench.
4. prior to use, break the torque wrench thru with it on it's lowest calibrated setting. This ensures that the star wheel inside it is lubricated properly. Proper lubrication= accurate torque.
being a quality assurance inspector, i have to be aware of all the little nuances and rules...
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 12,065
Likes: 2
From: Smalltownville Michigan
Cruise-In 5, 6 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
i know if you have a snap on, they actually have an address that you can ship the wrench to for calibration.. i dont know about anyone else....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,507
Likes: 1,513
From: Little Rock AR
I have a Craftsman clicker and I have had similar problems with it not clicking when it is supposed to. I would not advise anyone to purchase one of those.
The beam type are better for some uses such as recording break away torque when dissasembling a fastener. This is not possible when using a clicker type wrench. The next one I buy will probably be a beam type but I will keep my eye open for a good deal on a better quality clicker type too.
You can never have too many tools
-Mark.
The beam type are better for some uses such as recording break away torque when dissasembling a fastener. This is not possible when using a clicker type wrench. The next one I buy will probably be a beam type but I will keep my eye open for a good deal on a better quality clicker type too.
You can never have too many tools
-Mark.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,362
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio TX
I also prefer CLICKER ones. I must be lucky since I have had my Craftsman for over 15 years and has worked great. 
Now I do keep it in its box and keep it oiled to keep away rust though.
Now I do keep it in its box and keep it oiled to keep away rust though.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,000
Likes: 22
From: Boulder Creek California
I worked with professional mechanics last year and on everything from our race cars to 6-digit price sports cars we used clicker type. One of the Testarossas had single-lug wheels and came with its own torque wrench. About 3 feet long and went up to something like 400 or 600ftlbs! There were also torque-o-meters for sensitive things like engine builds.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 5
From: Liberal Kansas
I use to check and calibrate torque wrenches. Day in day out the bending beam torque wrenches by far hold their calibration better than the click type. A bending beam Craftsman as far as accuracy out performs the Snapon and Proto click type. If your not willing to have a click type wrench regularly check go with the bending beam.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,950
Likes: 498
From: Chino Hills CA
I use clicker type torque wrenches at home and we use 3 in the shop at work, with one backup. I run a Costco Tire shop. I have a torque analyzer and test each wrench for accuracy once a month, I even send our analyzer in to be calibrated once a year. If you asked real nice, you might get me to check your wrench on our analyzer.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 6
From: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
Usually torquing something like heads or intake means going through a bunch of bolts maybe 3 times. Looking at the beam kind is a pain. Getting a click is go to the next one.
At work on the very specific torquing needs they don't torque but apply direct stretch readings. So many degrees of turn by the pitch of the fastener results in the wanted bolt stretch. The ultimate in accuracy since it isn't affected by oil or no oil....Imagine doing that 3 times!!!
At work on the very specific torquing needs they don't torque but apply direct stretch readings. So many degrees of turn by the pitch of the fastener results in the wanted bolt stretch. The ultimate in accuracy since it isn't affected by oil or no oil....Imagine doing that 3 times!!!
