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does anyone know where a good place in the phila area to get my car stripped and any idea of cost.
thanks AL
I had asked a similar question recently and had been advised to "just say NO to blasting". Apparently the preferred methods are to chemically strip, use the "razor blade method" or sand. All of them sound like a lot more work I had a friend recently tell me to use soda blasting (he's a cobra kit guy, and familiar w/ fiberglass). Needless to say, I'm now paranoid of the blasting process on fiberglass after the advice I got here. It's a bummer because it's the only way to go with street rods and saves a ton of time
I am one of those that would discourage blasting. I am just now wrapping up painting my car, the previous owner had the body bead blasted. I was like most people and thought this was a good thing to save me work. What I found is that the surface in my case was so pitted that it has taken these extra things:
a) I have now used 3 gallons of PPG K36 sandable primer to do my whole car vs. 1 gallon under normal conditions. That's at a cost of about $95 a gallon of K36.
b) It has taken me 4 rounds of shooting K36 in 2 wet coats each, and block sanding each time to get a perfectly smooth surface. THis is opposed to 1 stage of 2 wet coats and a final single coat stage if sanded or stripped.
It has taken me a total of about 120 hours to completely prep and paint my car from start to finish. Of that I'd guess that a good 80 hours of that went into priming and blocking which is probably about 50 hours above normal. That is why I say that blasting is not a good choice. It feels like you'd save time but when you consider all the EXTRA priming and blocking you have to do, you spend a LOT more time than sanding the paint down or stripping it. At least the surface remains relatively smooth with either of those techniques.
I would agree with the comments about bead blasting, assuming that the person used glass beads, but other types are much less harsh than that. Using soda, walnut, or plastic meadia (at a lower pressure of 40-60 PSI) shouldn't cause any pitting like steves_77vette had. These materials are designed to "break up" easier and decrease the chance of damaging the fiberglass. Of course the media does not last as long. It could damage a large Bondo area, but chances are you would redo that anyway.
I would agree with the comments about bead blasting, assuming that the person used glass beads, but other types are much less harsh than that. Using soda, walnut, or plastic meadia (at a lower pressure of 40-60 PSI) shouldn't cause any pitting like steves_77vette had. These materials are designed to "break up" easier and decrease the chance of damaging the fiberglass. Of course the media does not last as long. It could damage a large Bondo area, but chances are you would redo that anyway.
Does anyone here have experience with soda, walnut or plastic? I'm still willing to entertain the idea if I heard success stories. Likewise, if there are any horror stories out there with these other methods (I have already heard enough bad stories about glass and sand) I would like to hear them as well.
I do soda blasting , the trick in doing fiberglass is it must be done with water and you must keep the nozzle moving ,if kept in one place it will create a hole . In my opinion soda blasting is the most effective way to strip any car . Remember it also will not hurt glass ,rubber or chrome . I hope this helps you out a little .
Walnut shell is great if you're trying to do a quick strip, because it's very coarse material.
However, I wouldn't use it on fiberglass because of the reason that it's so coarse.
Stick to soda/plastic blasting at a lower PSI if you're going to do it.
If you're doing any steel parts, aluminum oxide (usually a 150 grit texture) works wonderfully. I believe that Walnut shell is something like a 15-20 grit texture, but I could be wrong; I'm trying to do this from memory.
Depending on the application, I use either Aluminum oxide for my media blasting, or glass bead (at least, if I'm trying to strip it to bare metal), at about 90 PSI. I like glass bead for aluminum, if I'm going to strip it down to bare metal and paint it, although I did use it to remove some nasty oils/grease on our aluminum Jaguar valve covers before I polished it up.
I recently split the cost to rent a soda blast unit with two other guys. It was a large unit with a diesel powered compressor mounted on a car hauler type trailer. The cost was $200 for Friday afternoon through Monday morning and $25 per 50 lb. bag of soda.
It was absolutely fantastic for stripping my friends 70 Mach 1 and 66 Galaxie 500 convertible down to bare metal. However, it did not work well on my Vette. After making a mess of my two doors, I elected not to blast anymore fiberglass.
It felt as if the paint was a bit tougher than the fiberglass. By the time you would get through the paint, the fiberglass woud quickly errode into a rough worm track sort of texture.
It has taken me a lot of work to get the doors back to where they should be.
There may be some experienced soda blast operators who can strip a Vette without damaging the glass but I couldn't do it.
I tried everything I could to make it work such as less pressure, more pressure, varied from a rich soda mixture to a very lean soda mixture, varied the distance from nozzle to surface and varied the angle of attack. No matter what I tried, it continued to damage the glass.
I also just went through this process (what method to use) I ended up 80% sanding, 15% razor blade & 5% stripper... I did the whole car in a day in a half including all jams. I was not easy!! Just went at it hard and got it over,
I do soda blasting , the trick in doing fiberglass is it must be done with water and you must keep the nozzle moving ,if kept in one place it will create a hole . In my opinion soda blasting is the most effective way to strip any car . Remember it also will not hurt glass ,rubber or chrome . I hope this helps you out a little .
also on aluminum as well
If these are not available, get the razor blade out, and in the jams and recesses like the drip rail for the hood, use a chemical stripper, Capn Lee's, for example. The chemical stripper is available form Mid America.
I have also seen and heard of heat guns, but be careful. These should not/cannot get too hot.
I also just went through this process (what method to use) I ended up 80% sanding, 15% razor blade & 5% stripper... I did the whole car in a day in a half including all jams. I was not easy!! Just went at it hard and got it over,
Sounds like there is no real easy way out - I guess I'll just roll up the sleeves and apply some good 'ol elbow grease I'm not sure I want to risk blasting. A day and a half sounds reasonable - I'm assuming looooooooooonnnnnnnnngggggggggggggg days, right (12-16 hrs) ???? I'll be tackling mine in the next cuople of months. I'll give myself a whole weekend (Fri night, Sat and Sun) just to be sure I budget plenty of time.