RDVT4ME

My neighbor is looking at a 68 coupe 427/390 no's matching car this weekend. I have talked to the owner and it sounds like a stand up car. Can you guys give me some tips on what to look for?

Thanks in advance (from a C5 guy) trying to help a neighbor make a corvette purchase.

-Bob

Tom454

Very few cars are really "numbers matching" as claimed... if you pay a premium, make sure you decide up-front what numbers matching means specifically to you before you make the down payment.

The term is thrown around a lot by people who make up their own definition and then hike the price on the car.

I'm not saying the car is NOT numbers matching, just be sure to treat the claim seriously if a premium is being paid for it.

RDVT4ME

Tom,

You are definitely right on that one. The owner indicated that the car's vin is on the engine and tranny. Says it is the original drivetrain.

Thanks
-Bob

RHD '68 L89

Bob,
First thing to check is for rust. Look at the chassis, especially in front of the rear wheels. then ask to remove a kick panel and look for rust in there. this is the infamous Birdcage rust. If there are any signs of rust walk away fast.

CGGorman

Check the turn signal for proper operation. A new one will cost you at LEAST $150.

Make sure the alternator is externally regulated.

Wheels should 7" wide, not 8"

Steering wheel should be simulated wood and 16", not black and 15"

RDVT4ME

Thanks for the info guys!

LemansBlue68

Buy it as complete as possible. '68 only parts (and there are a lot of them) are hard to come by as many aren't reproduced. The fact that the car is a #'s matching big block will make up for any faults .

Areas to look at are around the passenger side hood latch. Many '68's I've seen have this area cracked, previously repaired or worse. '68's aren't reinforced in this area as well as later years. Also check the rounded areas near the front of the hood surround for stress cracks. The radiator support/hood prop reinforcement is prone to rust and if it's bad enough will result in a cracked inner wheel well skirt (a '68 specific part). All of this can be fixed, however, by adding the reinforcements that were used on later model year vettes.

The center gauge bezel is die cast and has a thin area between the gauges and windshield wiper switch. It is often cracked or broken here. Fortunately, '68 reproductions are available for around $250. Later year bezels can be substituted but are textured but cost is much less. This is a problem with ALL of the early sharks, though.

One more thing: The radiator supports for these early sharks are very prone to rust out. Check the lower section for rust. This is a problem with the C3's too, but the '68 radiator supports are not reproduced so you would have to find one or repair it if this one is rusted through.

RHD '68 L89

The simulated wood was an option and the black wheel is standard, agreeded that it is bigger than later years. They also had thicker door trims than 69's. The 69 and up had more room for wrestling the car around corners.

Techno

Do a search on this. Mostly for the BB aspect. The tach will tell you if its 390.
The radiator support is either SB or BB.
Theres other little tiny ones.
Tach I forgot what it should read- specific to 390. Ignition, fuel return are funny back and forth from SB to BB. Carb? Differential yokes- specific to BB, 9-SB or 5 leaf-BB springs in the back. All this is just to prove it is what its being claimed to be. Or at least see any obvious wrongs.

This might not be much help but it is somewhat interesting.
http://www.rowleycorvette.com/stats68.html

Birdcage is the windshield pillers. Just in case this isn't obvious.

And your tag is the kind of license plate I drive into trying to figure out what it means.
red vet for me?

BlueL36

Determine how many miles on the BB and ask if the timing set has been changed at any time. OEM had a nylon coated timing sprocket and at about 50K miles (or after 35-odd years) the nylon disintegrates. If it's still OEM, it's one of those things you want to replace sooner rather than later.