now that i have a buffer from harbor freight i would like to know what type compound is used to polish/buff up the stainless trim under the ''t tops'' also the rocker moldings??? thanks carl---------------------------------------

 

Personally I like to use a unique formula called Kwik Kut that we get supplied at our shop. However, I don't think it's available commercially.

I've also had good luck with Mother's Polish and Blue Magic's cheap Liquid Metal Polish. Both available for about $4 at Autozone.

 

I bought a book "How to Restore Metal Auto Trim" by Jeff Lilly. It's an excellent source for tips and tricks. He recommends compounds from C.F. Global Systems, 1304 Sunset Avenue, Yorkville IL 60560, 1(800)333-2833. I think Eastwood sells some also.

 

That has a lot of information on polishing ...

http://www.englishcustompolishing.com/index.html

 

I've used Autosol, which comes in a little tube; a little of that stuff goes a LONG way.

The best buy for the money that I've found so far, though, is the Meguiar's NXT All Metal Polysh. It's really good stuff, comes in a container like the Mother's Aluminum Mag wheel polish, and takes very little effort to use it.

The only problem I've had with it is getting my hands on it; the local Autozone, Pep Boys, Kragen/Checker doesn't carry it.

Now, if you want to REALLY buff it, a buffing wheel and stainless steel compounds are good to have. Eastwood carries a whole line of them. Just make sure you use the right compounds and the right texture of wheels, or else you won't achieve a clean mirror polish on it.

I spent a week on valve covers for our Jaguar, getting them from the nastiness that they were to the nice shiny covers that they are now.

When you do polish, though, be careful to make sure it's actual stainless or solid aluminum, and not plated; otherwise you can actually burn the polish right off of it.

 

i'm peepin

 

Carl,

Different metals use different buffing compounds, because some metal like Stainless are much harder than others like Aluminum. If you buff Stainless with an Aluminum compound it will take forever. If you buff Aluminum with a Stainless compound, you literally streak and melt streaks into the surface.

Do not attempt to buff any Aluminum that is Anodized. You will end up ruining the Aluminum. Anodizing is a plating finish that can only be removed safely by a plater by reverse plating. It’s a very hard finish on the surface and buffing will heat up the Aluminum causing it to streak and melt. Once it is removed, you can polish, but the piece must be re-anodized to protect the surface afterwards. If the piece of Aluminum is also bright dipped or colored, make sure the plater can do this step. Many shops still Anodize, but few bright dip or color due to EPA regulations.

A coupe of other things you will need. A do-rag to keep your hair clean and a full face shield to keep your face clean. Or you will get dark. Use goggles, and you’ll look like a raccoon. A pair of heavy leather gloved to hold a hot metal you will produce. It’s a dirty messy job.

Geoffrey Coenen

 

Carl,

I also bought a HF buffer and at the same time, I purchased a "Kit" from Eastwood that has several compounds, wheels, cleaning brush/rake, face shield. I did all of the Stainless trim and after a little practice, it came out better than I expected! Don't be afraid to use some pressure with the stainless - that seems to be the key. I initially wasn't and I was ending up wit shiney scratches!

Now I have coupound for polishing just about anything!

Paul

 

Carl:
Doc Rebuild is right on. Your rocker moldings are anodized, buffing them will remove that and you'll loose the semi dull shine.
A machinist taught me how to buff/restore stainless. If you've got scratches, start sanding them with 600grit. If it's not cutting, move down to 250. Then progressively move back up ending with 1000 to 1500 grit.
Once the scratches are gone buff with white or brown compound. It's a stainless buffing compound available at Eastwood. Keep the buffer moving, and occasionaly rake (clean) the buffing wheel, and your work, to remove grit & dirt. Cover the interior cause it's a dusty process.
I've done my (and others) T-top trim this way and it turned out looking like chrome. Expect to spend a few hours doing this.
Eddie

 

Heres the real deal,I have been polishing for 20 plus years,Grey compound for stainless period, final with white rouge for color. spiral sewn buff 40 or 80 ply, than loose canton buff, dont mix compounds on the same wheel. The more heat you can generate the better.As for most anodizing removal ,a can of ez off oven cleaner will strip it off in a few minutes than you can easily polish it, Thats what we do for all red/blue fittings.It takes some work and acquired skill and like stated above very dirty.As far as the best place to buy heres a trade secret ,casswell supplies has the best prices ,many buffs are buy one get one free plus there compounds are the best,good luck with your new toy and be careful with handling your pieces ,they can get thrown out of your hands ,we wear a flapjacket and welders gloves work well.

 

Hi Carl,
As the last four posts say. All I've got to add to it is that my rocker panels were clear anodized & then painted black. Getting the paint off was easy, but I haven't got access to caustic soda so removed the anodising by rubbing it off with 240 grade wet-or-dry (took forever, but it was a labor of love!). Getting into the corners was tricky though & if you can get them chemically stripped then go that way, it's a lot easier. As far as I know, all anodising does is to oxidise(?) the surface of the metal. If a dye is put in during the process then it will be trapped in the film, giving the required color (some colors have an annoying property of fading in sunlight after long exposure). After rubbing down mine I polished them with mops & soap & then got them anodised black. Came out looking great.
Stainless is much harder to polish (& rub down). As suggested, use a soap specifically for stainless. The general purpose soaps will do it, but it takes forever. Don't polish just one spot trying to remove a scatch/chip as you'll end up with a dip in the metal that will stand out a mile when it's mirror polished. Move the mop over the whole area. Start with a coarse soap & finish off with a fine one (on another mop - definitely do as said above & keep at least one mop for each type of soap). Get it looking good with the coarse soap as, if it's still got minor scratches in it, the fine soap will take forever to get them out. All the fine soap will really do is polish out the very fine scratches left by the coarse soap. You can get extra fine soaps for finishing. These are great for show cars, but are pointless for cars that are actually used. The first few times you wash it will dull down the very high finish it gives & it'll look like the finish obtained with the "normal" finishing soap. If you leave aluminium(sp!) bare then it will dull off over time. Solvol (as mentioned above) is excellent for bringing it back up to a high shine with just a few mins of elbow grease (DON'T polish paint with it!!!). A good tip for using Solvol is to apply it with the gloss side of a piece of card like an Xmas card. Polish it with the same bit of card (which will turn black, along with your fingers) & you'll get a better finish than a normal cloth would give (I was told that by an old Rocker & he was right, it really does give a good finish). Solvol is also good for getting fine scratches out of stainless. Happy polishing

 

Caswell has some useful buffing info on their site and lets you download a hard copy. They have a good "Pick a Kit" at the top of their menu.
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm
I bought one of their kits for around $115 that gave me everything I needed to polish just about anything. Compound comes in large bars, not wimpy little sticks available most places. If you have a buffing machine and plan on doing more than one job, the Caswell kit is a good deal IMO.

 

This is what I used...not the brown previously posted. I forget sometimes...
Eddie

 

Yeah that brown really clogs up a wheel.

 

No one yet suggested sisal buffs with emery compound for removing scratches so I will. I started with stainless compound on some of my pieces and wasn't getting anywhere. Once I got things smooth with the emery then I went on with the stainless compound and spiral buff then on to white rouge with a loose buff.

Also, eye protection and better yet face protection are musts and I also found a dustmask (like you use to sand drywall) to be necessary because of the dust generated. The tip on the welding gloves was also right on because they protect up your arms to your elbow and also allow you to hold the piece right next to the wheel. You don't want to be afraid to handle a piece that is getting too hot and have it fly out of your hands or catch the edge of the wheel and get wrecked. The piece you are polishing WILL get hot!!

I also bought the HF buffer and am quite pleased with it. I polished nearly all of my stainless trim with it to mirror-like gloss. It was a great investment.

 

I keep all of my wheels and compounds in a small plastic box, with everything in it's own Ziploc bag. Every wheel has which compound was used on it written on the side with a Sharpie pen. It makes it easy to grab what you need when it's time to polish something.

My buffer is an ancient Delco refrigerator motor with a buffing arbor attached to the shaft. Very cheap, works just as well as the expensive buffers, and that motor is built so well that it will never, ever blow up, no matter how badly I treat it (not that I don't take care of it).

 

If you follow this link all your questions will be answered. http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm

 

Wow! nice link Red 69...