rust problem
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
rust problem
I started with this project just after I got the car:[/IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/janicesylvester/100_0674.jpg[IMG]
and went to here
:[/IMGhttp://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/janicesylvester/100_0676.jpg[IMG]
then to here
[/IMGhttp://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/janicesylvester/100_0665.jp[IMG]
got bored waiting for the trailing arms to get back from their acid bath, so I [/IMGhttp://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/janicesylvester/100_0684.jpg[IMG]
now I need help with this rusted bolt that secures the front body mount[/IMGhttp://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/janicesylvester/100_0678.jpg[IMG]
any suggestions?
and went to here
:[/IMGhttp://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/janicesylvester/100_0676.jpg[IMG]
then to here
[/IMGhttp://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/janicesylvester/100_0665.jp[IMG]
got bored waiting for the trailing arms to get back from their acid bath, so I [/IMGhttp://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/janicesylvester/100_0684.jpg[IMG]
now I need help with this rusted bolt that secures the front body mount[/IMGhttp://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d65/janicesylvester/100_0678.jpg[IMG]
any suggestions?
Last edited by sly vette; Nov 16, 2005 at 08:45 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: los angeles california
ugh, it looks like its welded in there! i dont know how sensitive the rust is but ive used a chisel so that i could access the hex head easier with a socket... then i tried to go at it a bit. that looks like its in a tight space tho so i dunno
this worked for me, there are probably better solutions tho
this worked for me, there are probably better solutions tho
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
From: Leander Texas
I got luck with mine. The front ones broke off, and the kick panel ones unscrewed. The Rear ones I had to cut off with a torch. I think that this may be your best option. Or you can weld a nut to the top of the bolt.
You are a fireman so you know how to use a fire extinguisher. I suggest removing the carpet first though. Soak the area with water to help keep the rubber fire down to a minimum.
Are you doing a frame off?
I Ended up pulling the body off the frame because the bolt wouldn't spin lose from the retainer nut. The nut had rusted so bad it would just spin in the square recess it sat in.
You are a fireman so you know how to use a fire extinguisher. I suggest removing the carpet first though. Soak the area with water to help keep the rubber fire down to a minimum.
Are you doing a frame off?
I Ended up pulling the body off the frame because the bolt wouldn't spin lose from the retainer nut. The nut had rusted so bad it would just spin in the square recess it sat in.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
I would like to access the frame to replace the brake and fuel lines, and do some cleaning up. All suspension and steering are done and I'm waiting on the trailing arms and gas tank and new rubber mounts.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
From: Leander Texas
Originally Posted by sly vette
I would like to access the frame to replace the brake and fuel lines, and do some cleaning up. All suspension and steering are done and I'm waiting on the trailing arms and gas tank and new rubber mounts.
(Major fiber glass damage). Once we got it off the it was so much easier to do all the other things that needs to be done.
My solution for removing the bolts that I wasn't able to unscrew was to build up a bead of weld inside the nut retainers until they wouldn't spin.
You can only get to these on my '78 by removing the body.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,654
Likes: 0
From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
I carefully cut the heads off with a plasma cutter. I had to do this on both sides (inside the kick panel) and used the same method on the #3 mounts in front of the rear wheels. I went slow and used a hammer/chisel to clean of the slag periodically. When I was done the washers were left in tact, but the heads came off clean. I can't emphasize enough that you have to go careful and slow, as there are flammable materials in these areas especially in the kick panel (#2 mount) areas. Good luck!!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
From: Leander Texas
Originally Posted by sly vette
I'm kinda short on tools as far as torches and plasma cutters go. I imagine torches are the way to go since I don't know anything about plasma cutters. Torches won't hurt the wallet as bad. You can try you're local rental house and see if they will rent them, or a plasma cutter.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 0
From: Leander Texas
Originally Posted by sly vette
With the die grinder, with limited space, do you mean just nibble away at the head?
If you are going to remove the body to repair/replace the mounts I suggest spraying the rubber down with dish soap when you are ready to do the lift. This will help allow the rusted bolts to pull through the rubber easier.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
Solid mounts
As soon as I get the chance I will be going to the tool shop to buy a die grinder. I have a '69 vert and I believe I have solid mounts. that is the main reason I am pulling the body, to retrofit with rubber. The next question I have is, What can I expect when I get the body off? Specifically, what is in store for me as far as removing the rest of the bolt and is the nut welded to the frame, and will I have access to it if the nut starts to turn?