I bought a similiar unit from Home Depot and installed myself (natural gas) It's great and I can get the garage toasty in no time. As much time as I have spent in the garage over the years on cold winter (Wisconsin) nites, it was the best investment I ever made.

 

You have to decide how often your going to be out working in the garage because there are other factors to consider. Over the years I've had many typical heaters used in my garages including torpedo, radiant, forced air LP portables, and the hanging shop natural gas types.

My garages have been detached and were not heated until I was going to do something. I'd come home and start the heater, go in for dinner and then come out as it was just getting up to temp. Now during the warm up everything starts to condensate, which eventurally led to stuff rusting! Not good for all the tools, parts, engines, shop tools, etc. Even once the garage was "warmed" there was still the cold zone 2' off the floor that was cold, mostly from bench height down to the floor. Even with fans lightly blowing the heated air down wasn't enough. Plus the fumes would kick your butt because they exhaust into the work area and need constant replenishing, like open the door every so often. Which is about the time you'd get it to temp, then you'd have to open the door, dooh! After about 4 hrs of this you've got a killer headache going.

So first garage 26'x26'x8' (mom's house with same heater occasionally still used) ended up with a 60,000 btu portable style LP box with an electric ignitor and a t-stat built in using two 100 lb LP bottles out behind the garage. Sucked in fresh are but burned and vented into the work place, still needed fresh air replenishng. Worked good, got it to about 60 degs, just stay off the floor and wear long underwear.

Second garage 24'x38'x9', hanging shop type 30,000 btu natural gas heater with pilot light and external flue pipe. This heater was purchased for a very cheap price just before I extended it from the 24'x24' size. This really needed a 45,000 btu minimum (according to calculations) and I could only get it to 60 degs with the dreaded cold floor effects. But I ended up leaving the heat on at 50 degrees all the time until I was going to work out there. I'd come home and turn up the heater to 60 deg, go in and eat/change, then go out and work for until bed time. If I didn't leave it running at a constant temp, stuff would rust. And I have way to much wrapped up in tools and equipement to ruin. Think I priced it at about the same I'd spend on LP at mom's but with no headaches because it had a flue pipe. On days under 10 degs this heater was struggling but heavy sweat shirt and sweats was still good enough.

Then my current garage, about the same size 4 car but this time its attached and has an 11' ceiling. Huge difference is heating and cost to run. This time I have a 60,000 Dayton (tube type heat exchanger) with a ceramic heating element and a cheap programable t-stat on the wall. This is awesome, I have it programed to come on at 5pm and is at temp when I get home and go off at 10pm when I want to work out there. Rest of the time it's set at 50 degrees and hardly runs unless it's 10 degrees or less outside. No problem getting up to temp here with the heater sized correctly. Cool thing is heater goes off for me in case I forget or get lazy after dinner and don't go out there. It's mounted flush to the ceiling so it's out of the way, you just have to go through the hassle of the gas line and electrical. Time to call in some favors, or go meet the neighbor's for the electrian or plumber willing to do side work.

So I recommend the better heater, use the gift card for the $20-$30 t-stat and the "out the wall" stove pipe (if you can't cut a hole in ceiling/roof above heater) vent cover. There a few different vendors for this style of heater (hotdawg, etc) so shop around it's well worth it.

Here in Nothern Illinois this is a popular unit for residential. Though I do have friends with mini shop/barns with oil/wood burners that work well but a little more work required. Such as cleaning and getting the wood or oil to burn. One guy has a killer custom wood burning that gets his 4+ car garage to about 80 deg before we have to open the door and peel off a few winter layers. Think he does it just to show off.

Buy what you can afford, but if possible buy the better unit, it will last for many garages as you go. Unless the guy makes you leave it behind, like my last garage.

Later.
(sorry for the long post)

Edit - - My current is like picture above but with roof venting. Agree with HVAC guy who's from Illinois also.

 

Need more info. I am assuming an insulated garage since it's sheetrocked. How big a garage, ceiling height, what do you keep the thermostat set at, what kind of monthly cost does it incur. I'm interested in doing exactly what you have set up there, and want to know what im getting myself into.

 

Big Fish, the HVAC guy, might be able to help. But I got my rough calculations from either the Grainger or McMaster catalog were they describe how to calculate btu's required. Stuff like total area, how many windows (including sizes), doors (including service/garage door), and some multipling factors depending where in the country you live and the temperature you want to maintain. Wasn't hard to figure a rough requirement, think my 24'x24'x8' had a minimum size of 30,000 btu. The 24'x38'x9' needed 45,000 byu min, while the last garage needed the 60,000 btu with the taller ceiling height, additional windows and two garage doors.

All garages were eventually insulated (walls and ceiling) but not all were drywalled (mom's is still stapled insulation).

Right now natural gas cost are way up there compared to 3 years ago, currently $1.13 to $1.38 per therm depending on service supplier. So the programable thermostat pays for itself along with the pilotless ignition. Old house was about $20-$30 dollars more a month (back with cheaper price therms=.30-.80 cents per therm) depending on how much I cranked it up to work out there. Prices compared closely to the LP heater I brought over during the garage extending project and used grill bottle for supply. Use to feel guilty if I turned it up and then got lazy after dinner, still had to walk out and shut it down at end of the night.

But with programable it's not as bad, I turn it up when I get home and at the end of the night (about 10pm) it goes to the next step which is 52 degs automatically. I think on the weekends I have it set a few degrees warmer since we're home and go out there for other things (attached garage now). This years fuel costs may trim back garage time if I want to eat or have gas money for the work car.

Other things to consider, wiring doesn't have to be perminant, I have mine with a stand plug wired in to use the exisiting garage outlets. The exhaust venting has a few options that make it easier since these models have a power vent and allow venting out the side the side wall (like in pic above). I have mine up through the roof running on an angle to get it to the center of the roof instead of right at the gutter edge requiring a 4' extension pipe to meet code. My heater is mounted on the side wall and outside of it is the entrance sidewalk to the house. Thought it would look stupid to have the heater vent right in your face with the side mount, or a 4' flue pipe sticking up there also. With the power vent you have more options with venting vs the standard straight up flue pipes that have to be vented the correct way or the heat exchanges fail quicker.

Forget what ex-co-worker paid to have his Hotdawg heater installed for him. Want to say about a $800 total including heater and the crazy way the plumber had to run the gas line plus using the side venting option. Mine cost me about $500 including heater, standard venting from H.Depot, and an old 110v cord that was rated correctly. All with a little help from friends and neighbor guys in the trades to double check our work.

Later.

 

RobRace10,

What's the PVC piping on the side of your heater for? I see the exhaust piping out the back but not sure about the white PVC.

 

This is what I've got.
http://www.lbwhite.com/index.asp?menuID=121
The 250,000 BTU model. It's unvented but my 28 by 70 foot "garage" isn't exactly tight either. It cost about $600 from a local ag equipment dealer and has been in use for over 3 years now with zero problems.

 

This is what I have too. Just keep the door to the outside cracked.

 

The white PVS is an air intake and probably not needed. When i first put it in I had some strange smells and figured I should add an air intake as my garage is pretty well sealed and insulated. Turns out the smell was from some garden chemicals that the wife snuck into my cabinet near the heater and because of the added air circulation they were much stronger smelling.

As for cost etc, it's hard to tell as I only run it when I work in the garage and shut it off after. It also is on the same gas line as my home heat. It really takes only about 10 minutes on the coldest days to get it to 70 degrees. The garage is a 3 car and intregal part of the house and I believe this was a 45,000 btu unit. As I recall it was about $600. at home depot and then probably another $100. in misc pipe wire etc. The local heating company wanted about $2,000. so I did it myself.

 

They work great! It hangs off the ceiling so no worry about gas vapor at floor levels. I have only a 7 foot ceiling so I have bumped my head on it a couple of times but learned to duck when in that corner. It has been up 6 years I run it on Natural Gas it can be converted to propane. Bought a cheap round thermostat and keep it 65 all winter. I figure the cost of operation at about 40.00 a month. The 87 Vette sits on one side and Momma's Taurus sits on the other she likes have a warm car to get into and I like a warm Momma to get into
;-) !!!

 

I've got a smiliar one as well. Now that I installed this one... I'd never go back to anything else. It's gas (propane), cheap to operate, has quick recovery; and is up off the floor - out of the way:

 

Ive got a 50000 btu( simmalr to the one in the pic ) nat gas and i put a 30-90 thermstat on it I keep it at about 40 ish when im not in there and turn it up to 70 when im working in there (takes about 5-10 min to get it there) cost wise its not to much (garage is sealed up pretty good and insulated) I only notice a differance in the gas bill when im doing allot of work out there

 

About this heater and some of the others: Any concern about carbon monoxide?

 

Thought I covered this in my first post:

The "Hot Dog" is similar to the others who have posted pictures above

 

Thanks. I missed your post. It was hidden by the "More replies below current depth" feature of the new posting summary format. I wish that the posting summary chart showed all postings and didn't have this "More replies...." feature.

 

Hey Steve, We may be talking about installing one in my garage in the very near future

I just bought a 4-post lift and want to do some work in the garage in the winter and just started looking at heaters.
Over the last couple of years, I've insulated the walls & ceiling. Installed an insulated garage door.

Time for some heat!

Didn't know you were in HVAC!

 

Let me know if I can be of any assistance Russ!

 

I dont think this option was mentioned....
I put in a portable heat pump in my garage. 1 ton AMCOR and works outstanding for my 21x22 ft garage. it will heat up the garage from low 40's to 70 in about 10 minutes(it is insulated all the way around)
this option also gives me cooling in the summer with the added bonus of A/C removing the humidity in the garage(no rust!)
it vents to the outside through a window or a duct similar to a dryer vent. the condensate line dumps outside for humidity removal.
under $500 shipped to my door from HERE
(mine is first on list-$449 free shipping)

I have had it for one year and it has been a great buy.

ps- it runs on a 110 outlet

 

Hey Big G_Krop,

why would you possibly need a garage heater in Austin, TX???


(right now it is 15 degress in my garage. I don't think it gets that cold in Longhorn land does it Big G?)

 

That link is for an air conditioner, doesn't mention it having any heating ability. With 110 volt power, the most cooling capacity you can expect from any manufacturer is 12,000 btu. If it was a heat pump, one could expect the heating output to be slightly higher at 70 degrees outdoor air source. In our cold northern winters when the outdoor temperature drops down to -10 the heat output would be next to nothing and would need to be supplemented with electric heat. At temperatures around 20 degrees or so I would guess you might get 5,000 btu of heat on a good day. It really depends on where you live. If your winters never get colder then 40 degrees the heat pumps are a great choice. Temperatures between 25 and 40 degrees will require frequent defrosts to maintain operating efficiency due to high relative humidity in that range. Defrosts usually occur every 45 minutes of run time, but depending on the manufacturer the frequency could be as much as 90 minutes of run time. During defrosts the heat pump operates as a air conditioner and requires supplemental electric heat to prevent cold air blowing into the space. Water source heat pumps are another story, they don't require defrosts and are quite efficient, but installed costs are so high most people would be better off considering alternate methods.

 

Lennox 45,000 btu natural gas fired w/t stat.....makes the garage nice and toasty in minutes.