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Installed new master cylinder yesterday..that did the trick..(hoses were ok)....thanks to Big G for his input....
I also installed a new seal kit/bushings,etc in the steering gear cylinder...odd was the threaded portion of the rod was bent slightly...did not want to bend it back for just 1/8", sooooo.....don't say "bubba",as I just want to "service evaluate" it...
My brakes need some attention now. Pedal is very hard, very little brakes. The master cylinder fluid level seems to be right where it should be. Could it still be the problem? How do I troubleshoot it?
My brakes need some attention now. Pedal is very hard, very little brakes. The master cylinder fluid level seems to be right where it should be. Could it still be the problem? How do I troubleshoot it?
Just my opinion:If there are no leaks of brake fluid..calipers,hoses..and your pedal is very hard...it could very well be your booster...when the booster goes,your pedal actually is very "hard",even over manual brakes cause you don't have any vacuum "assist"....in my case,the pedal was "soft" and went almost to the floor...then pumped back up...I can find out in the morning how to check the booster...
Last edited by rihwoods; Nov 29, 2005 at 08:47 PM.
Test of booster:Vacuum Leak Test....
1.Operate the engine at idle without touching the brake pedal for at least one minute
2.Turn off engine and wait for one minute
3.Test for vacuum assist by depressing brake pedal and releasing it several times..if vacuum is present in the system,light application will produce less and less pedal travel.
Test of booster:Vacuum Leak Test....
1.Operate the engine at idle without touching the brake pedal for at least one minute
2.Turn off engine and wait for one minute
3.Test for vacuum assist by depressing brake pedal and releasing it several times..if vacuum is present in the system,light application will produce less and less pedal travel.
Just ran the test. After running the engine and shutting it off, the brake pedal produced the same "travel" distance after five or six depressions. It would come back up and go back down.
Also, I was told to remove the hose from the booster to the intake/carb, with the car running. Don't know if all Vettes have this. Mines a '75. If I have suction on the hose, then the booster is bad. Well, I had good suction and white smoke coming from each tailpipe. So I guess it's time for a new booster. Don't think this one has ever been changed out.
Just ran the test. After running the engine and shutting it off, the brake pedal produced the same "travel" distance after five or six depressions. It would come back up and go back down.
Also, I was told to remove the hose from the booster to the intake/carb, with the car running. Don't know if all Vettes have this. Mines a '75. If I have suction on the hose, then the booster is bad. Well, I had good suction and white smoke coming from each tailpipe. So I guess it's time for a new booster. Don't think this one has ever been changed out.
Important to note that if the vacuum supply fails,you will notice that much higher pedal effort is needed to stop the vette and the pedal feels harder than usual...did you experience that ? If you did,replace the booster...
Important to note that if the vacuum supply fails,you will notice that much higher pedal effort is needed to stop the vette and the pedal feels harder than usual...did you experience that ? If you did,replace the booster...
Yes, pedal is hard almost as soon as you depress it.