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I'm sur some of you have used this, but what are the pros & cons, & what methods have you used to apply it? I plan on wire wheeling off the rust & crudd with my die grinder & brushing it on. What do you guys think? Is there a better product?
I'm sur some of you have used this, but what are the pros & cons, & what methods have you used to apply it? I plan on wire wheeling off the rust & crudd with my die grinder & brushing it on. What do you guys think? Is there a better product?
POR-15 is fabulous stuff - I have tried others and wouldn't use them.
Don't be too aggressive with your cleanup - POR-15 actually likes the rusty stuff and actually chemically reacts with it (positively). Just knock off the loose stuff and slop it on!
I just finished the same project on the frame and suspension parts of my 73 last weekend. I wire wheeled it with a grinder just as you plan on doing. I used different size foam brushes, a small pore foam roller and a medium quality paint brush to apply the POR 15. All came out equally good and looks like it was sprayed on. The gloss is unbelievable and the finish came out glass smooth.
This was the first time using POR 15 and I am really impressed with the results. It has a very slow drying time so it self levels very well. I can't tell you about the longevity but from what I read from other posts it should last many years.
HINTS: USE GLOVES LIKE THE CAN SAYS - I have been wearing the POR 15 that I accidentally got on my arms for a week now. USE METAL READY - Etches the metal for the paint to bite into. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE DEGREASED PARTS THOROUGHLY - Use a WATER based degreaser.
Rust Bullet works very well also. It's a little simpler in terms of prep - brush off loose rust, degrease and paint it on. It does require 2 coats so the overall cost is about the same as POR. It can be topcoated with any kind of paint. I did my frame with the Silver Automotive RB and painted it with Eastwood Chassis Black. Use a foam brush no matter what product you use. It's a lot easier to get into the nooks and crannies of the welds and frame with a foam brush, and there are many many many nooks and crannies.
I used the Eastwood Spray on stuff, it looks great like flat black. They also have an article about how much better than por15, but who knows. Ill let you know in a few years.
I just got done painting my frame with the por-15. It appears to be good stuff. It paints on real easy and a quart goes a very long way. If you elect to use the por-15 wear throw away rubber gloves. I used the cheap surgical gloves because there is a note on the top of the can saying if you get the paint on you it wont come off and they are not lieing not even lacquer thinner will get it off of your hands. I gets into your skin pores and has to wear off. I liked very much working with it.
Rust Bullet works very well also. It's a little simpler in terms of prep - brush off loose rust, degrease and paint it on. It does require 2 coats so the overall cost is about the same as POR.
Actually, Rust Bullet doesn't need a topcoat -- if you don't mind a silver finish. I just bought a "6 pack" of this for the rusty floorboards in my '79 Mercedes. We'll see...
Great feedback. I will probably use the POR then. Ok, Metal Ready, is this sold by the same people who sell the POR or is it something I need to get somewhere else? The water based degreaser, can someone give an example of a namebrand? Thank you so far.
I see that some of you put the POR 15 on then "painted" it? Is this necessary? I thought the outcome was a black finish that needed nothing on top of it. And can someone answer me about the Metal Ready in my above post? I'm getting close to placing an order & want to have everything I need at one time. Thx!
I see that some of you put the POR 15 on then "painted" it? Is this necessary? I thought the outcome was a black finish that needed nothing on top of it. And can someone answer me about the Metal Ready in my above post? I'm getting close to placing an order & want to have everything I need at one time. Thx!
It doesn't "need" topcoating, but
- the job looks better with the correct topcoat.
- If POR15 is exposed to ultraviolet rays (i.e direct sun), it will get cloudy.
i did the rear frame on my el camino with por15 a few years ago. dropped a few spots on the dirty garage floor. they staid there for almost three years until i finally got them off using aviation stripper. however, i like to clean the area with lacquer thinner after i get off the loose rust myself before i use it. on my vette the guy i bought it from had blasted the frame and used the eastwood product on it. it sat outside for ten years (however it was up on a trailer for a good bit of that time) and still looks great. as far as i can tell both products seem to be excellent. however, if i was going on an area with surface rust i think i would trust the por15 better. jmho.
my entire frame/undercarrage/suspension parts are done in various por-15 and various top coatings.all suspension parts are 2 coats por w/ metal mask and top coat of glisten p c.so it looks like bare metal but is glossy and protected,frame has 2 coats por and top coat of gm chassis black...inside of frame was shot twice with z bart----------------------
You might want to check your A.I.M. It shows the bolt head at the top of the rearmost lower control arm cross-shaft bolt, not the nut. Other than that the frame looks nice. You must not live in New England.