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73 L48 will not start need some input

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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 09:49 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by KALAWAY
I've also had this problem - IGNITION MODULE. Car would crank fine but would not fire/start. Bad ignition module. Part cost me $13. Advance Auto Parts tested it for me and let me know it was bad. Started up nicely with a new one. If you get the GM one, it will cost a little more.
Kalaway,
Where did you get a Module for $13, was it a factory HEI or aftermarket, this is mallory Unilite optics module in dist,they want $100/$110 for the SOB. Msd's is only 39.99.and noone knows how to test them, the guy at Autozone(my age) was amazed that I could check it out myself If I find out it is the module after it tested ok, testing it like they tell you to, then I go back to regular points.

I have an HEI in my 78vet and it's the original module, I'm pretty sure,can't remember ever changing it. I'll know today when I get it buttoned up and see if it starts. If it don't then I take the timing cover of and see what's up there and while I'm doing that I send the module to Mallory and have them test it I guess.
I could pull the dist. out of the 78 and put it in there and see if it would start and maybe that's what i should have done first, the 78 always starts right up. I may do that before I pull the timing cover,
I got a lot of options and more time then I need.
MAN, I LOVE IT WHEN A PLAN COMES TOGETHER
You all know that this is a labor of love, it's not really "work"
Thanks to all you guys for the opionsand help.
Rich
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 10:25 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 73 red vette
I could pull the dist. out of the 78 and put it in there and see if it would start and maybe that's what i should have done first, the 78 always starts right up. I may do that before I pull the timing cover
Rich: Swapping in another known-good distributor sounds like an excellent plan. But first, sometimes you can tell quite a bit about condition of timing set by pulling dist cap off ... and while observing rotor ... have someone spin motor over ... sometimes bad t-set will reveal itself via erratic/no rotor movement ... same goes for stripped distributor gear roll-pin.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 10:55 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by jackson
Rich: Swapping in another known-good distributor sounds like an excellent plan. But first, sometimes you can tell quite a bit about condition of timing set by pulling dist cap off ... and while observing rotor ... have someone spin motor over ... sometimes bad t-set will reveal itself via erratic/no rotor movement ... same goes for stripped distributor gear roll-pin.
Jackson,
I did that and the dist. rotor seems to turn fine and not show any problems, but thanks for your suggestion, I will probably check it again once i finish the fuel pump plumbing.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 02:09 PM
  #24  
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Richie, did u get the car started yet????????
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 02:26 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 73 red vette
Car backfired big time, blew mufflers apart,put new ones on,now won't start. Cranks good, wants to start,but won't. put new coil on, checked compression. #8 plug looks good, #1 fouled, fuel flow was 9 oz. in 7 seconds( holley double pumper). book say flow should be 1 pint in 30 seconds.
Found oil in gas, think diaphragm has a hole in it.. Plugged gas line, put gas in carb,still won't start checked optics in dist. says it's good.
Anyone got any ideas why it won't start, any help would be welcomed
Thanks in advance gurus,
Rich
I'm concerned by the first sentence. If you had a B/F serious enuf to blow the mufflers apart either they were in really bad shape or that was one he** of a backfire. You apparently have spark (did you check it at the plug?) You have fuel (all be it with oil in it) and you have air.
The only thing left is timing the spark or valves not opening.

I've had two such experiences .. one flattened 3 lobes on the cam, the other was a timing chain. Assuming that the wires are correct (you sound good with that) then timing is all that's left. Have you tried it on starter fluid? If it won't run on that then you have either a timing or a spark issue. you sound savy enuf to check the TDC against the valves and piston position. I would check to ensure that all the valves are operating as they should by cranking with the plugs out, coil wire removed etc. In the days of my misspent youtgh i didn't remove the coil wire and ended up with a fire. Not good.

Good luck

Last edited by toolking; Jan 26, 2006 at 02:30 PM. Reason: Add info
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 03:04 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Jims79
Richie, did u get the car started yet????????
WE HAVE IGNITION! WE HAVE LIFT OFF I WANT TO THANK ALL YOU GUYS SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND IHOPE I CAN DO TWICE AS MUCH FOR ANY OF YOU SOMEDAY
I think it was the fuel pump all along al though I do feel the coil was bad . All your suggestions helped me so much to get this thing fixed.
Thanks,thanks thanks is all I can say to everyone on this great forum that we have here, THE GREATEST BUNCH OF GUYS ANYWHERE, I only hope I can get to meet some of you someday before I go to that big car show in the sky.just a little fine tuning now.
Thanks again
Rich
Maybe we can all meet in VEGAS some day

Last edited by 73 red vette; Jan 26, 2006 at 03:06 PM.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 03:45 PM
  #27  
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Now that's one happy corvette owner. Good going rich, glad you found the trouble.

Hans
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 05:13 PM
  #28  
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Cool Rich, now drive that beast before u fubar something else
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 08:22 PM
  #29  
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This is quite interesting.I have a 73 and i am going through the same difficult expierience.After i had the timing set and new points,plugs,wires,rotor,cap ignition switch,coil installed the car would still not run.I was working on it one evening and discovered that there wasn't any power getting to the coil.The resistor wire for some unknown reson had failed.So I have to run a new wire from the igition to the coil.But getting to the ignition switch is not fun by any means.I had to drop the column and take out the divers side dash.Good Luck!!
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