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If the screws are stuck spray them with penitrating oil and let it sit for a while. Then use a screw driver to loosen the screws. Once they start turning you can use a screw gun.
If the screws are stuck spray them with penitrating oil and let it sit for a while. Then use a screw driver to loosen the screws. Once they start turning you can use a screw gun.
Well, I tried that. No good. These things will not budge, and Im starting to strip them.
Make sure you use a quality screw driver/bit....one that really fits the screw....but first as c3_guy said let the pentrating oil do its work....it may need a couple of applications.
Well, I washed her today (my, she looked good after I got rid of the dust) I dont feel any fresh dampness. In fact, I think the passenger side is pretty much dry now, and the driver side is no wetter than before. Maybe a little drier.
I checked on the inside for any sign of drippage or leakage. Nothing on the windshield or on the dash I could see.
I think the passenger side is pretty much dry now, and the driver side is no wetter than before. Maybe a little drier.
Scott,
Did the previous owner have it detailed? Sometimes the "pros" really soak the carpets and suck'em out with a wet/dry vaccum. It can take a few days for the carpets to dry out.
I pull the mats let the car air out and the carpet is dry to the touch. I put the mats back in, drive it a bit, and the carpet feels damp and the bottoms of the mats are moist.
There is a small tear in the carpet on the passenger side, so I stuck my fingers under there to see what is going on and the padding(?) underneath is soaked. So thats why the dampness comes and goes I guess.
I called the guy I bought the car from, and he says he didnt shampoo the carpets. He said it has been sitting outside for months and there has been a lot of rain lately so there has to be a leak somewhere.
I washed the car Saturday and didnt see any obvious leaking and the carpet didnt get damp til I replaced the mats. I just ran the hose all over it again and cant fint any new damp spots or obvious signs of leaking around the window frame or tops. Maybe the volume of water and the short time exposed wasnt enough to do anything.
Do I need to pull all of this caqrpet up and replace it? Id rather not, it looks fairly new.
How is this going to affect the floor boards? Will this long term exposure to the dampness cause them to rust away to nothing?
Do I have a serious problem here or can I just wait til the damn thing dries?
If your car is post '76, you might want to pull up the carpet and make sure your floorpans aren't rotted through. I know with my '76, the holes for the floorpan plugs were rotted all around so water would come right up past them.
I pulled out my carpet, wire wheeled the pans, then put a spotlight beneath the car pointing up at the floorpans. There were pinholes everywhere despite the pan being more or less structurally sound. I welded in patches (mostly along the edges and over the drain hole), rust proofed the whole mess, then hit both inside and outside surfaces with rubberized undercoating. I haven't had a damp floor since.
By all means pull the carpet up as much as you can and let the carpet pad dry out on the passenger side. Remove the chrome kick panel on the edge of the carpet next to the seat. You might be able to shove a narrow board or tube under the carpet to lift it up and hold it there while it drys.
Sniff it and see if it smells like antifreeze or not. That will rule out the heater core.
Otherwise the time sitting outside let water seep in most likely thru the areas described earlier. Michael Davis wrote a book "Corvette Water Leak and Wind Noise Solutions".
Good Luck,
JU
Last edited by John Ulrich; Jan 30, 2006 at 04:25 PM.