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Rear SLeaf Spring Installation, any lessons learned?

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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 12:57 PM
  #1  
Rick Church
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Default Rear SLeaf Spring Installation, any lessons learned?

I'm getting ready to remove and install a replacement rear leaf spring on a 71 coupe. I am installing the standard 9 leaf 2 1/4 inch spring. Are there any tips or lessons learned any of you can share before I attempt this job.

Thanks in advance!
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 08:12 PM
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Once complete, you'll probably sit a few inches too high in the back. Once that happens, we'll get the threads rolling again.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 08:19 PM
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Be careful taking the old one off. Use a "c" clamp attached to your floor jack and the old spring. Lots of pressure to contend with.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 2th farmer
Be careful taking the old one off. Use a "c" clamp attached to your floor jack and the old spring. Lots of pressure to contend with.



although i prefer a sturdy set of vice-grips

i've removed and reinstalled my rear leaf 4 times in the last year....not problems yet....if you have rear-exiting exhaust i would loosen the "rear-most" bolts to get some play in the pipes to slide the spring in/out.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 08:28 PM
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Your local Caterpillar Store has 9/16" x 8" bolts for less than 4 bucks each.
Use Nyloc nuts.

I got a 9 leaf from MidAmerica and it jacked the back of my car up high enough to get a nosebleed. That is how I found out about the bolts at CAT.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 09:34 PM
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Whatsamatter, you guys don't like the "stinkbug" look?

I'm going to tackle this job soon as well, since the suspension is completely shot on my car. And, as much as I would like to go to the local CAT store to get the bolts, I don't have one in town that I'm aware of. The local ABABA-QA hardware store would probably carry the bolts that I need, though.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 11:24 AM
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As others have suggested, use caution when removing the bolts and lowering. Don't tighten the center mounting plate bolts all the way until the rear suspension is under load. This can lead to cracking of the rear cover. Otherwise, this is a pretty easy repair.


Here is a pic of how I jacked up the spring
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Sprzout
Whatsamatter, you guys don't like the "stinkbug" look?

I'm going to tackle this job soon as well, since the suspension is completely shot on my car. And, as much as I would like to go to the local CAT store to get the bolts, I don't have one in town that I'm aware of. The local ABABA-QA hardware store would probably carry the bolts that I need, though.
Be sure to get grade 8 bolts....ordered mine from Guldstrand..came with bushings in a kit..nyloc nuts..about $30 bucks...
Rich
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 08:56 PM
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Rick

There are some cautions involved when you re-torque the four large center bolts that hold the leaf spring mounting plate to the bottom of the differential. If I recall correctly, they should not be fully torqued until the full weight of the car is back on the leaf spring. Full torque on them prior to this has resulted in reports of the one of the mounting ears breaking off the differential cover. This has been discussed on the ncrs tech forum many times.

Geoffrey Coenen
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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One more thing to check. Centering of the leaf spring so that there is equal distance between the ends of the spring and the tires, or other measurement point. You would not want to finish the job and find that the position of the leaf spring is too far to one side. I am looking at some of the clearance areas for spring travel, etc.

kdf
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 09:07 PM
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Default Rear Spring

You can also have the orignial spring re-arched, painted, and rebuilt with new liners. Might be a good plan "B" if the repalcement gives you ride height problems and you don't want to fool with longer spring bolts.
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