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This weekend we are inspecting a 69 427/390 car that is supposedly all original/matching #s - I am looking for help ID'ing the car and have some basic info on the block casting #s and the engine/trans combo as designated on the front pad. I also have the data to decipher the trim code (paint, interior). I know there are a few tell tale things to look for on C2s to help determine if they were original BB cars such as the bolted on half shafts (rather than nuts and bolts), inclusion of a rear sway bar, etc. - are these also good things to check for on a '69?
Please help me with any other things to look for to determine that the car was an original BB (not a converted SB). I would also appreciate any sources (or listings if you can or e-mail me) for #s other than the block casting, front pad, etc. - Thanks and wish me luck.
Does it have the Tank Sticker! Original Bill of sale? Most importantly. Other than that. You would not be able to verify 100% if it is an original BB Car.
I was looking for a simliar car a 1969 L68 Tri power.... But No tank sticker and NOM but without the tank sticker and or any other docs. I would say Forget about it.... Unless it's going for a reasonable price.
I wouldn't want you to pay too much and find out later it's not what you thought it was... It could always loom in the back of your head that it might not be an original... Fakes can look soooo good.. LOL
Augustus - There is no documentation with this car, but I believe that based on the inclusion of the correct half shafts (bolted not U bolts), inclusion of rear sway bar, correct tach redline (does anyone know what it should be for 427/390?) and checking the block casting and front stamp that I should be able to reasonably assure myself that the car is origina - I just want to get the most complete list of "clues" to check for and this is where the Forum should help
Redline for Tach 5600 rpm for a 390HP car
and casting numbers for the 390 horse could be these.
3935439....427.......68-69...2 or 4 bolt
3963512....427.......69......2 or 4 bolt
Would be for a 390 horsepower car.
Now check the date code on the block too to see if it's build date is before the date code of the car being built.. Important....and make sure the date code of the block is not longer than six months of the production date of the car!!!
Augustus - this is helpful and appreciated - Anyone else who has other things to look for or numbers to check,please weigh in or point me to web sites that have them - Thanks - Joe
Those correct U-joint/half shafts could have split along the many highways many years ago... Alot of people I know go by Half shafts/caps.
Take the differential code and then we can see if it's a Heavy Duty unit.
I have the list at home and I can fire it off to you tomorrow.
Take a look at the Tranny code and see if it's a Muncie 3995660
Augustus - this is helpful and appreciated - Anyone else who has other things to look for or numbers to check,please weigh in or point me to web sites that have them - Thanks - Joe
Rear axle codes:69
AT
3.08:1
H. D. Positraction
Big Block
AU
3.36:1
H. D. Positraction
Big Block
AV
3.08:1
H. D. Positraction
Big Block
AW
3.08:1
H. D. Positraction
Big Block
AY
2.73:1
H. D. Positraction
Big Block Turbo hydra-matic
thanks to Augustus and RIHWOODS - this is exactly the type of data I was seeking - the more the better, so if anyone else has additional items, please weigh in - Joe
thanks to Augustus and RIHWOODS - this is exactly the type of data I was seeking - the more the better, so if anyone else has additional items, please weigh in - Joe
Most things listed are great except that if the car has been restored, any and all could have been changed.
With the money for BBs today, I'd look VERY hard at any fresh restoration.
Look at the car. Is it old or new? Is each item consistent with the others.
Documentation. If it has it, great. If not, you have to hunt. Everyone is hung up on documentation, but the truth is that many cars have none. If a car hit the used car lot, that was the first thing to be trashed. Used car dealers never wanted potential buyers to find the previous owners as information could break a sale or lower the price.
When in doubt, take someone who knows the type of car. Most look to NCRS judges, but there are many others out there who know what to look for and can look for what you want.
Unrestored cars rarely have the gasline changed as it is such a hassle with the body on. The BB and SB have different ones. The SB is back slightly, and angled differently. The SB is like a 45 degree bend, the BB a 90 degree bend.
If the car has the original engine it will have the vin derivative stamped on the engine pad. Are you concerned that the engine presented as "original" may be a replacement that was stamped to appear original? It is unlikely that a smallblock would be converted to an L-36 with all the little details faked. If the stampings on the engine pad are correct and the tach redline is correct for a 390 hp engine that would convince me.
Entirely different story if I were looking at a tripower, especially an L-71 or L-89. And if it was presented as an L-88 I would assume it was fake and require lots of compelling evidence before accepting it as real.
That's what scared me too... How do you know if the the Engine I.D pad has been restamped... When it comes to fraud.. Great lengths will be taken to make a quick buck.
Some engines on EBAY indicating "correct 427 for 1969 Corvette" One last step away is to have the Engine I.D pad resurfaced ever soo lightly and retstamp the Block... The Block Castings you cannot change though...
But this is my worry..
Thanks to those who posted here today - these folks have been extremely helpful and generous with their knowledge and expertise - DOLT is not a word I would use to describe most forum members (I am generally on the C2 Forum as I own a 67 Coupe and the help and support provided there made me confident that my questions on the '69 would be answered here on the C3 forum...and they were!)