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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 05:38 PM
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Default blast cabinet media

I just got in a Skat 780 top load cabinet off ebay. This is a nice little unit that will handle T arms, differential no problem. What media are you guys using with cast iron? I'm using medium glass bead but it's not cutting it fast enough. It bounces off POR15.
Thanks
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 05:55 PM
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I have aluminum oxide in mine, works a lot better than the glass bead to strip light stuff...If that doesn't work for you, you might want to go to silicon carbide (black looking stuff).

Also, what PSI are you running on your blasting cabinet? It may just be bouncing off because you're running too low a pressure. I usually run at 80-90 PSI for mine.
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 05:55 PM
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AlOx or Silicon Carbide.
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 06:15 PM
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80 grit wet dry sand, glass beads just don't do the trick.............
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 07:34 PM
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NEVER use any silica based abrasive in a blast cabinet. You are too close to the dust that you will never see or smell and will inhale it and this turns to glue in your lungs and your body does not metabolise it (silicosis). A 60 Grit brown aluminum oxide should do the trick for your stated purpose or you could use black beauty "slag" but you will eat nozzles like potato chips with the slag.
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 09:27 PM
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Crushed garnet is good too, if you can find it.
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 01:02 AM
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I have the same unit. What you may be experiencing may not be a blasting media issue. If por 15 is of a soft rubbery type of coating then the media is just bouncing off the surface. If this is the case then you may have to remove the por 15 by some other means and then media blast it.
Hope this helps
Steve
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 08:07 AM
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Thanks guys. The POR15 is one problem but the med bead isn;t too fast cleaning off rust either. I'll look in the Graingers catalog and see.
I'm aware of the silica products that one reason I tried the bead. A good respirator would be good to use with it too.
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by gtr1999
Thanks guys. The POR15 is one problem but the med bead isn;t too fast cleaning off rust either. I'll look in the Graingers catalog and see.
I'm aware of the silica products that one reason I tried the bead. A good respirator would be good to use with it too.
Check the yellow pages under sand blasting, found a local supplier that way that was much cheaper than graingers. He's happy to offer advice also - sometimes to much

Anyway I use aluminum oxide to clean the heavy rust off of cast iron then go back with glass bead. Comes out like new.

Jim
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 12:07 PM
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I have used the garnet from a water jet machine ,doesn't work very well that I can recall.


silicon carbide (black looking stuff).cuts well
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 01:08 PM
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The cheap sand from Homedepot is fine, BUT YOU HAVE TO WEAR A MASK AND FILTER !!! That silica stuff is pretty much deadly.... not now, not next week ..but a few years from now you'll get bad news from your doctor....
I'd wear a mask with good filter anyways, it's not only the dust from the media ... the old paint that you blast off is often worse than that....
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 01:12 PM
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A standard mask and filter won't help much with the free silica. You need one of those fresh air systems with the long hose and separate pump, as are used for painting.

JUST STAY THE HELL AWAY FROM SAND! If you're stupid enough to use it, please leave me the Corvette in your will.
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 03:09 PM
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constrution supply ,,conrete ,masonry should stock it.. or able to get it also
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 08:12 PM
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The bead I bought has no silica in it according to the MSDS. I tried some of the med bead mixed with al oxide and that wasn;t much better. I have a friend checking with his supplier on different products he uses. This will be a limited use machine for my needs. I like the cabinet though I think it's better built then the imported ones I looked at.
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
A standard mask and filter won't help much with the free silica. You need one of those fresh air systems with the long hose and separate pump, as are used for painting.

JUST STAY THE HELL AWAY FROM SAND! If you're stupid enough to use it, please leave me the Corvette in your will.

A mask with air supply would be perfect. Keep in mind that the coating you're removing in the blasting process is 25 - 30 years old. Paint for example very often contained lead and other toxic stuff back then....
That paint dust can be as dangerous as the sand/silica dust
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 10:38 PM
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gary have you tried the black beauty slag material?
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
gary have you tried the black beauty slag material?
is that the stuff out of power plant's
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
gary have you tried the black beauty slag material?
I have used tons (literally) of this in an open environment. Pretty good stuff, especially if you have nasty or really sacaley stuff to clean up. It will certainly clean up material much faster than most anything else.

KC
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 11:03 PM
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I used a material called Nickle Slag which looked liked a fine sand that was green in color. It cleaned my front end parts quickly but they were not painted with POR15.
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Old Feb 17, 2006 | 12:25 PM
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I have heard good things about the Black Beauty also. It is fairly cheap also, but may be a little hard to find. I use the aluminum oxide from Harbor Frieght (25lbs for $20) and it works well on iron. Even using that in a cabinet with a 375 CFM dust collector I wear a cheap filter mask. That way I don't blow black stuff out of my nose later!
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