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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 09:33 AM
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Default Engine break in

I'm sure there are a lot of opinons on proper engine break in out there. I have a 350 sb with moderate engine mods done to it. I am interested in you all's thoughts on how to properly break in a motor.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 09:40 AM
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Default see this thread

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1308818
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 04:41 PM
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Look towards the bottom of this article for GM's recommended break-in procedure.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=167&TopicID=3
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 04:46 PM
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When I first got my rebuilt motor back, I took it easy because that's what everyone told me to do...mistake.
Went to tfb in chicago, and after that they said go find some hills to climb and lug the motor to increase the pressure on the rings...need to force them to seat.
That works!

trw
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 09:12 PM
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For the first 500 miles your supposed to be nice and not get the RPMs way up there. For the first 1500 miles you don't want to redline the crap out of it. After 1500 miles you should be good.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Kalway
For the first 500 miles your supposed to be nice and not get the RPMs way up there. For the first 1500 miles you don't want to redline the crap out of it. After 1500 miles you should be good.
I disagree with this. A well built motor can be run like you would normally run it after you seat the rings. Pretty much right away. I had mine at redline within the first 50 miles. It is still running strong with no oil problems or anything after 6K miles. You don't see many drag engines running 500 miles before running down the strip. If it is machined correctly and built with the right tolerances, break in the cam, non roller engines and then go run it like you normally would.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
I disagree with this. A well built motor can be run like you would normally run it after you seat the rings. Pretty much right away. I had mine at redline within the first 50 miles. It is still running strong with no oil problems or anything after 6K miles. You don't see many drag engines running 500 miles before running down the strip. If it is machined correctly and built with the right tolerances, break in the cam, non roller engines and then go run it like you normally would.


An engine should be broken in how its going to be driven. According to Lars, our resident Guru, the engine need to get to WOT early in order to get the rings to seat properly. this doesnt neccesarilly mean taking ot the track day one, but you do need to get the engine RPMs up once you've gotten the cam broke in aftr say 20 min or so.

.02

tim
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jeph054
I'm sure there are a lot of opinons on proper engine break in out there. I have a 350 sb with moderate engine mods done to it. I am interested in you all's thoughts on how to properly break in a motor.
Who built the engine?
What was their instructions for break in period?
Is this a professionally built high performance engine, what components?
Unless you know who and how this engine was built, it would be ill advised to recommend approaching redline the first day, unless it was broken in during a dyno test. Especially for someone that is asking this question in the first place. If you spent hard earned cash on even a mild rebuild why risk anything by mashing the pedal before the first oil change ( I do with less than 50 miles as does every engine builder I know) where you can open the filter and check the material in the filter IE broze from bearings ..ect.
Good luck - get well informed.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 09:10 AM
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Thanks for all the input. I know what i need to do now. My builder is old school but builds great engines and came highly recommended. However he doesn't even think syth. oil should ever be used. So I know I have to build the cylinder pressure up so that the rings seat all 360* around.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jeph054
Thanks for all the input. I know what i need to do now. My builder is old school but builds great engines and came highly recommended. However he doesn't even think syth. oil should ever be used. So I know I have to build the cylinder pressure up so that the rings seat all 360* around.
I'm sorry, no one addressed if the engine is roller or flat tappet, (did they) old school flat tappet requires a cam brake in upon first start.
You engine builder should have told you that.
Roller requires no special breakin.
Hope that helps.
( most engine RE-Manufacturers do recommend conventional oil for the first 2K miles before switching to synthetic.)
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