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Front compressor seal ?

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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
Default Front compressor seal ?

My 72 Coupe had COLD air last summer. I turned the ac on today while on a badly needed drive to "town" and had NO cold air.

After inspecting....the only thing I found was an oily "gooey krud" baked onto the bottom of the space between the compressor and the pulley.

Would this indicate that the front seal gave up ? NAPA sells a correct rebuilt replacement comp for $119.00 - I have two 30# canisters of r12 in the basement and a buddy that owns a shop with a vacuum pump and a "license".

Am I headed in the right direction here?

Thanks for any insight.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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If thats the only leak...a whole compressor isnt needed.
See if you can get a seal and use your old compressor.
A reman is a crap shoot, and those two #30 R12 tanks are worth gold.
A reman can waste R12...how?....remans arent noted for being right the first time.
If your compressor is known to be good, just put a new seal.

You dont need your buddy's license if you are the one with the R12, you just need his vacuum pump....who has the gauges?...they are cheap.
R12 on a 72 compressor...Pressures when finsihed should be
Low side=40/+or-5
high side idle=250 /+or-25
high side high RPM's=275/+or-25

If it were me, this is how it would go:
Since the sytems would have to be *opened* to change one compressor seal I would...
Buy a 12pk.
Open and drink one beer.
Change the compressor seal, every 0-ring seal, and receiver drier...drink another beer
purge entire system of contaminates...drink another beer
add new/fresh oil....drink another beer.
evacuate to 28.8 (all it will go anyway) and close gauges to leak check...drink 3 beers while vacuum is holding.
recharge...drink a celabratory beer.
leak check with sniffer....drink 3 celabratory beers because of no leaks.
Tell wife(S/O) to go get more beer...all done in less than 2 hours and start BBQ pit.



Good Luck,
Jim
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 10:04 PM
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From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
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JIM....What a great approach! Thanks for the excellent directions. I have the beer.....R-12.....and gauges. I've never changed out a seal in a comp, but I will give it a shot. If successful, I will still have the original compressor. It will be a great weekend project.

That is a super idea....Thanks, Fred
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 11:03 PM
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If it is an A6 comp. it has a ceramic seal, not that bad to change but it does require some specific tools. If you have never changed one of those seals it can be trickey. Seems like I remember your not suppose to touch the seal with your bare fingers it will damage the seal.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fotyfobravo
JIM....What a great approach! Thanks for the excellent directions. I have the beer.....R-12.....and gauges. I've never changed out a seal in a comp, but I will give it a shot. If successful, I will still have the original compressor. It will be a great weekend project.

That is a super idea....Thanks, Fred

Yer gonna need a clutch remover and installer...and that seal r/r is just like any other seal....but

butt...

It should come with a new felt *washer* (maybe even a leather one)...also known as an "oil washer", "dust/debris washer", ect...its s'posed to be oily, its there to protect the shaft and seal from debris...if the new seal kit dont have a new one, clean, oil and use the old one.
DO NOT OIL WITH REFRIGERANT OIL....it will cause a leak detector to indicate a false leak.

remover clutch...remove seal...emery cloth the compressor shaft...flush shaft debris with denatured alcohol or regular alcohol...DO NOT USE AREOSOL CAN flushing...it will force debris into the compressor shaft, bearings, bushings...just some flushing with an old dish soap bottle is good enuff....wipe dry....let "air out" before continuing as to not trap alcohol in the seal housing...just a minute or two...even a heat lamp or hair dryer dries it out quickly.

...lightly vaseline the shaft and seal rubber... install seal...use clutch installation tool....done

purge all components before installing 0-rings and reassembly...purge again when system is complete, but, without drier installed...new drier and its 0-rings should be the last component zipped in and zipped up.

ect...

drink...
ect...

BBQ...

Ect...

dont puke on 72
ect...





Jim
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chevymans 77
If it is an A6 comp. it has a ceramic seal, not that bad to change but it does require some specific tools. If you have never changed one of those seals it can be trickey. Seems like I remember your not suppose to touch the seal with your bare fingers it will damage the seal.

This is true my friend in Sulphur...but...

he will be asked at the parts house what model his A6 is to distinguish which seal it will take...they had both...and no telling if is comp. is original to the car...I do know 72's had the old style A6's with POA's some had expansion valves, some even went to expansion tubes...lots-0-changes after 73....comp. even had different hose locations per models...truck and Vettes being the most common to interchange vs. station wagons and Camaro's, Chevelles, ect..

A6's of 73 and earlier were predominantly old metal and rubber seals.
Other cars pony cars of 73 seemed to get the *upgraded* model compressor...and 75 on up had improved designs on almost every GM up to the 80's...its a crap shoot basically...he will find out with the comp. design number...early or upgraded...he can actually tell by looking at what style clutch he has.

BTW--I lived in Sulphur...on Lee St. ..across from Joey Begeron the taxidermist.


Jim
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 01:57 PM
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fotyfo If you want to do it your self I have a manual from back when I was in school with detailed instrctions that may help you. I can posibly scan the important stuff or I can send you the manual by mail just send it back when you are done.

Strats I know joey through freinds, Have you been in his house and seen his mounts, very impressive. Do you still live here in Sulphur?

Neal
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