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Man do I need help, suggestions or recommendations!
I'm trying (as a novice) to do my own brake caliper (all four) replacement. While I'm in there, I'm replacing the rear leaf spring, cleaned the rear end area, replacing the rear parking brake cable and hardware, all four shocks, and parking brake system in the rotors. I enjoy it but have run into some real problems I need help on. I'd like some advice on the following:
1. The rear shocks upper mounting bolts are frozen and I can't seem to get them loose. The 11/16 nut is positioned such that I can't get a wrench on it to apply any leverage (cross member is in the way). I have used WD40 a lot! The head and nut seem frozen with rust. The shocks don't leak, they're just old and I'm frustrated to the point of leaving them on the car but I've already bought new ones. How do I get these darn bolts and nuts loose (both sides of the car)
2. I'm replacing the parking brakes with SS parts and shoes; the small pin (rear, driver's side of the car) that the spring fits over can not be removed without removing the large backing plate. Can I remove the plate enough to get the old pin out and a new pin in without removing the wheel hub assembly?
Right now I'm at a work stoppage with these issues and I'd sure appreciate some help from you guys that have gone through this before.
Thanks in advance,
Rick in Tennessee
Last edited by Rick Church; Feb 28, 2006 at 08:18 PM.
Get a die grinder and cut the head of the bolt off. As far as the pins for the E-brakes go, you can leave the old pin in and use it, or if the old bolts are'nt too rusty you can access the pin after you remove them. I will be willing to bet that the large bolt on top will be difficult. If you do gain access to the pins, after inserting them, apply some silicone to the head of the pins, tie some string to the tip of the pins and wrap the other end of the string around a wheel stud. that way the pins will not move as you are trying to install the retaining springs. Before you try to install the retaining springs, compress them, and tie them with dental floss. It will be much easier to install them that way. Have patience ,the E-brake job can be a bear!!!
Later,
Sly
PB Blaster for the rusted bolts, blast and let soak, blast and let soak.
WD40 was not intended as a rust solvent. It was developed as a Water Displacement spray for the military (apparently the 40th revision worked). I have had very good results with PB Blaster. If you have the time, spray some PB on every day for a week. Try the fastener every day to see if it is freeing up. The only nuts I haven't been able to remove with PB are the ones that are rust-welded onto the bolts. If the nut starts to move, work it back and forth slowly to free it up.
There is another solvent named Kroil that is supposed to be even better than PB but it isn't as easy to find.
[QUOTE=Blair Winch ProjectThere is another solvent named Kroil that is supposed to be even better than PB but it isn't as easy to find.
Rick B.[/QUOTE]
Kroil available through Eastwood.
Rick Church: (P-brake shoe pins) As mentioned above, you can take the 4 or 5 small bolts out that attach the brake shield, then loosen the big one at the top center just enough (spindel will prohibit complete removal) to tip the brake shield and remove/install the new stainless pin. Before installing the shoes, put a glob or RTV where the pin meets the shield and let it dry. This holds the pin in place. Compress the shoe retainer springs and tie them up compressed. This helps get the shoe and shoe retianes on. When all is installed...cut/burn the string off.
This article might help you some. http://www.rowleycorvette.com/corvette_repair.html
Eddie
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Edzred72
BAAHHHH... just takes patience, opperating room type instraments and steady hands.
Eddie
again more mis information.....you forget the dictionary of swear words.....and you better do this with a really good friend or you guys will never to speak to each other again
[QUOTE=bobs77vet]sly i can 't believe you are misleading the guy like this.......the E-brake job IS a bear!!![/
Actually it can be alot of fun... Depending on your definition of fun...
WD40 was not intended as a rust solvent. It was developed as a Water Displacement spray for the military (apparently the 40th revision worked). I have had very good results with PB Blaster. If you have the time, spray some PB on every day for a week. Try the fastener every day to see if it is freeing up. The only nuts I haven't been able to remove with PB are the ones that are rust-welded onto the bolts. If the nut starts to move, work it back and forth slowly to free it up.
There is another solvent named Kroil that is supposed to be even better than PB but it isn't as easy to find.
The only way I have found it is directly from the company on line. This stuff is freakin' magic. I haven't had one bolt that I couldn't get out when using it.
OR...get your friend so drunk he won't remember the nightmare.
Eddie
don't do it yourself, that's a big project you took on. most guys who know what they are doing would do one at a time. Get a friend or make one who knows what he's doing and likes free beer.
Keep us up to speed.