Muddywaters

This is the gun I want http://www.spraygunworld.com/product...20SAT61150.htm

I spoke to Sata (Tech) and they told me that this gun needs (Continious) 15 CMF @ 29 PSI. He says my compressor won't work. Its pumping 8.5 CMF @90 PSI 3hp. I called him up again today and described this. Ingersoll-Rand 5hp 18.1 CMF @ 90 PSI. He again indicated this will not work. He said those figures are not continious and as soon as you get below 15 CMF by less than one pound PSI the game is over!!!! Ummmm. I asked him to recommened a compressor but will not do so.... Seems to me, take my compressor for an example... if I cut the 90 PSI in half I should double the CMF to 17 CMF, which is 2CMF more than I need! Am I missing something here. My Compressor, was fine shooting primer, HVLP using a 1.8 tip. Sure could use some firm answers... Thanks

Corz

your compressor will be fine. I sprayed with a 5horse 30 gal on a Sata Jet

big_G

Just make sure you have large plumbing before and after the in-line regulator, and use the largest filter you can afford (less restriction).

Muddywaters

Corz, Big-G...Whats this Tech on about??? Like I said, I even described the 18.5 CMF and he said it wouldn't work? Dang!!!, this guy is a Sata Tech... Yea Corz, my tank is 30 gal. too. Today, I hooked my gun back up (1.8) and adjusted the press. at the gun to 30 PSI and held the trigger wide open. The compressor held its ground, but needless to say, had to run continiously.

Big-G, I do have a nice large filter (the one that takes a filter the size of a toliet roll). I then have another filter just before my press. reg. at the gun. The 5.00 dollar through away ones...

Again Corz... did u hold 29 PSI on your gun while you sprayed? Also, how did the gun work? Which Sata? How did the project come out... Thanks heaps!!!

big_G

The tech. is probably looking after your best interest, HVLP guns can run down a 30 gallon tank very quickly. All that matters is that you can maintain 30 psi. at the gun.

Muddywaters

Thanks Big-G... I suppose, the bottom line is, my compressor would be working pretty hard. And it could crap it self right in the middle of... OMG... Don't even want to go there,

ImBatman

I did all the priming and painting on my car with a Craftsman 5hp 30gal tank and a Chicago Pneumatic HVLP gun I pay'ed $45 for at Harbor freight. My car is BC\CC and turned out great see my signature pics. You do not have to spend a lot of money on the equipment. A good paint job comes from the prep work. You will be fine with what you have. My compressor did run all the time while I was spraying but I never had a pressure problem. I set the compressor outside and ran the hose under the garage door. The compressor had plenty of air circulation and I did not have to listen to it run constantly.


Wade

Muddywaters

Black Rat Wade, thanks for the input, wow...nice job! Looks great. I've seen your Sig. a few times, and was floored on your results. Perfect! One question: Do you have matallic in your BC? Also, what pressure did you have at the gun on BC and CC? Thanks heaps! Muddy...

ImBatman

My paint was a straight black PPG BC\CC no metallic. I don't remember the setting at the gun off hand but I will check it tonight for you and see. Just to give you an idea of my proccess I probably spent close to 200 hours on stripping,sanding, filling, priming, and leveling. My car had about 5 layers of old paint on it so I took it all the way down. I followed Lars' tech article to a "T" and used all PPG products. This was my first ever paint job and I am rather proud of how it turned out. You can have the same results just take your time ask questions and it will turn out great. Not to mention you will save yourself at least $5k+ and can say you did it yourself.


Wade

bryan717

Could you please post a link to the Lars tech article? or send it to me?

ImBatman

Hmmm. I just looked out in the Tech section and the paper is no longer their? It used to be under, Other>Tech Tips>C3. Anybody know what happened to it? Shoot Lars a PM and I am sure he will send you a copy. He goes buy lars as his screen name.

Wade

Muddywaters

Wade, yes... I have read Lars paper...and many others. Thanks! I also stripped mine down too. I then blocked puttied and blocked again. I then shot 4 coats of high build (Dupont), blocked, slight putty, blocked and now have three more coats of high build. I'll block again, just before I shoot BC/CC. I actually had a painter (Proffessional) come by and had a look. He told me, he knows alot of Proff. painters that do not do as nice work as I have. This was music to my ears. Thats why, after talking to Sata Tech. that I am very concerned with the compress. setup. As you, I have alot of hours in prep. and do not want to screw it up now, smile. Question: Did you seal between the primer and BC? Thanks in advance. Muddy...OH, the Sata techs (one concern) was if you use metallic's the press. has to be right. Needless to say: war bonnet has metallic...

Bryan77... I'll look for Lars paper...

simpson36

There is a world of difference painting a solid color and a metallic. Especially the more exotic factory colors like Cadillac Firemist.

Air pressure will effect the color of metallics because the particles wil settle nearer (lighter) or farther (darker) from the paint surface. You have to have a very even spray pattern and do a fairly exact overlap in order to get an even distribution of the metalic.

You can get away with inexpensive equipment with solid colors, but not metallics.

On the other hand, BC/CC is a godsend with metallics because you can stay on the dry side and avoid mottling and the CC will shine everything up.

ImBatman

No I did the sealer then putty then high build K36 primer then the BC\CC. You don't need to seal the primer. You pointed out the best benefit to painting your on car. Even though you are not a professional this is your car and you are going to be 100 times more **** about it than most any professional painter. If you figured up the time that you have spent and the attention to detail and then multiply it by an average shop rate you would probably pass out when you saw the price. Sounds like you are doing a great job. Sorry I cannot help you out on the metallic question.

Keep up the good work and you want be disappointed.

Wade

simpson36

Something to watch is that motors are rated differently now so you can't complare old with new. Sort of like when automotive HP ratings went to SAE net.

A lot of motors today on consumer products are rated at stall . . i.e. the amount of HP they can develope for maybe 20 seconds before they ment down!

I drove my Binks No 7 at over 30lbs for hours with my 2hp compressor, but the motor is rated 2HP continuous, single phase, 220v, which is probably equivalent to between 5 and 6 HP by todays rating method. Maybe that's what the SATA rep was referring to.

Muddywaters

Thanks Simpson: Yea, I can relate to the SAE Vers the Net... I've had this 3hp,30 gal. running all day when I was blasting the frame and suspension parts. And it a 110 volts! The only thing I saw was the PG&E bill, lol. I sent you a PM in regards to the mottling, as I didn't know what that was. Thanks!

Needless to say: Can I tell, by looking at the BC before the CC if the metallic is right???

simpson36

If it's "3HP" running on 110v I can pretty much guarantee it is not rated the old way.

At 110v, I would need a 50amp breaker to run my 2HP . . LOL! My brother used to hook up two 110v compressors and 'Y' them together.

Mottling is visible streaking and or clumping of the metallic under the surface caused by migration of the metalic particles. The bad news is it often happens AFTER your done spraying. Usually due to spraying too heavy or not allowing enough flash time between coats (that's assumming you mixed correctly and for the weather temp you're spraying in).

To spray 'dry', you cut back the fluid nozzle on the gun, you don't spray 'fast'. Always spray slow and steady.

In the old days before BB/CC, I shot a lot of laquer . . . including stripes and flames, and then color sanded it with 600 before shooting on the (then new) catalized urethane clear coats.

http://www.thecubestudio.com/pictures/ChevyWeb02.jpg

Wiping over the sanded surface with a cloth with PPG wax and grease remover (DuPone is Prepsol, I think) will show you exactly what the finish will look like with the clear coat.

Best advice I can give you is read, read, read . . starting with the PPG, Sherwin Williams, Dupont, etc paint sites. Whatever you do, follow the directions to the letter that come with the paint 'system' that you choose. Lots of people have an opinion and a 'trick' way of doing things, but PPG knows more about their own paint than anyone on any forum.

Corz

i dont know what the guy was smoking, I used an old hand me down Sata from my high school (from 2002) I dont remember exactly how much psi I sprayed at, (probably around 20 out of the gun) and my results came out pretty damn good







it aint perfect (damn dusty garage) but it's good enough for what I use it for

Muddywaters

Simpson36...Mottling is visible streaking and or clumping of the metallic under the surface caused by migration of the metalic particles.

Sounds like the migration is lack of pressure, would this be correct? Thanks for the ton of info...

I also dug up the info on my compress. and its 8.5 CMF at 40 PSI... I thought it was 90 PSI. Looks like I'm in for a comp. purchase...ummmm.

Corz: Looks nice, very nice...I'm going to paint in a Costo garage, which was new about a year ago. I'm going to hose it out and still line it with new plastic just before the shoot...Hopefully, that will take care of some of the dust...thanks for the input!!!

Corz

when you spray, hose the floor down and keep it wet, just be careful with the air hose so you dont splatter the car