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Started Stripping Paint w/Razor Blade...???

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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 03:17 PM
  #21  
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i removed all the bondo from my vette and redid with duraglass/resin/matte.......
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by wnmech
Will this captain lee's paint stripper ruin any body filler that is not fiberglass [bondo]? I hand sanded my drivers side door I have a cheap black coat of paint that comes off easily then there is red paint that appears to be a good paint job then the original paint was orange. I would like to just take off the black coat of paint how strong is this stripper and where can it be purchased?

Once you put the chemical stripper on the car all of the paint is coming off. Only way to get your black paint off would be to sand it. If you're going to be stripping 1 coat of paint off might as well remove them all. Would be very hard to try to take just the top coat of paint off and leave the other 2, houstonvett
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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I figured it out. I had six coats of paint and six coats of primer on my car. It looks like the dark red is the original primer or the primer from the first re paint where they actually stripped the entire car.

When I thought I was halfway done after a couple of hours because I got to the grey primer I was way off. Im not even halfway done and I have almost 6 hours into the job. I might try to find some fiberglass friendly stripper tomorrow.

Here are some pics, I think the dark red is the original primer. What is the original primer color for a 72? Would the primer be different above and below the bonding strip? It seems the coats of paint are thinner towards the bottom of the car.







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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 06:38 PM
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I have a nice picture of many layers of paint ... including
the original. My original 75 bright yellow coupe had a primer
layer of ruddy brown primer underneath.

I can't get the picture FTP'ed to my server right now ... try later.
... or email me and I can send. dave@NHvette.com
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 09:40 PM
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[snip] Here are some pics, I think the dark red is the original primer. What is the original primer color for a 72? Would the primer be different above and below the bonding strip? It seems the coats of paint are thinner towards the bottom of the car.

The red you see is the same color as the factory primer. No way to tell if that is the only layer of that red color primer on there. You are close to the bonding strips on the fender you pictured. You have to go up towards the hood surrond a little more to find them. You will find some body places will allow the paint to accumalate in heavier amounts then other places. Over the wheel wells is one such place. The flatter more vertical panels will usually not have as much paint accumalate on them. I have about 45 hours of sanding on mine and have it now 100% stripped of paint, parking lights, bumpers, mirrors. Will be some more hours of bodywork and prep work before the paint actually gets layed down, houstonvett
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Old Mar 10, 2006 | 07:22 PM
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Here's my pic ...

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Old Mar 10, 2006 | 07:29 PM
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Kleen strip makes a stripper that is safe for fiberglass. A neat tip for stripping with a blade is to gring the corners of the blade round so you don't gouge the fiberglass.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by NHvette
Here's my pic ...

that is a great picture typical c-3 and you get to see how many insurance claims the car has had
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 04:37 AM
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I used a razor to strip my 77 and it worked perfect. I would suggest that method over chemical strippers that are messy and leave a huge mess to clean up ON YOUR CAR.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 07:58 AM
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Shave it!

Last edited by yellow 72; Mar 11, 2006 at 08:21 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by bondoboy
Kleen strip makes a stripper that is safe for fiberglass. A neat tip for stripping with a blade is to gring the corners of the blade round so you don't gouge the fiberglass.
great idea
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Love My 72 and 77
I used a razor to strip my 77 and it worked perfect. I would suggest that method over chemical strippers that are messy and leave a huge mess to clean up ON YOUR CAR.
How long does it take to strip an entire coupe w/a razor?
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 11:43 AM
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Thanks for the help and tips guys, I wouldnt even of attempted it without your help!

I broke down yesterday and went and bought Bix chemical stripper for fiberglass. I was really getting into the glass with the razor in some spots and wasnt happy with the six coats of paint/primer that needed to be stripped off. The top two coats came off pretty easy and was really fast but the last coats was a bear.

The shape of my glass to begin with wasnt in the best condition so I think chemical stripping is the next step to get it down and see what I really have to work with. I will give you updates on the Bix and let you know how it goes. I am going to do a small section and if it doesnt work out I might fork over the 1.5k and get it media blasted by the pros.

Thanks again!
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Jims79
How long does it take to strip an entire coupe w/a razor?
should be able to do it in a weekend, also you dont have to go all the way down to the bare glass. I took mine down a couple layers then started blocking it from there. the original paint and primer were in good shape. no sense in stripping to bare glass just to have to put layers of primer back on to block sand. use the first layers of paint/ primer as your base for block sanding, assuming they are in good shape.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 12:28 PM
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[QUOTE=C3 4ME]I spent 1.5 months stripping mine with chemicals/QUOTE]

Took me little more than a day to strip mine using chemical stripper
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 12:37 PM
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[QUOTE=GDaina]
Originally Posted by C3 4ME
I spent 1.5 months stripping mine with chemicals/QUOTE]

Took me little more than a day to strip mine using chemical stripper
Hey GDaina, what brand of stripper did you use?
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 06:48 PM
  #37  
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I decided to give this a run w/ razor blades myself this afternoon. I can hardly believe how easy this has been so far. I'm right down to the dark red factory primer on the entire rear clip of my car and only have 4-5 hours in it at this point. I went to home depot and bought 200 blades and 3 holders. The holders are nice for the big areas, but I've been doing the real sensitive areas holding the blades in my fingers. There are a few little divots, but nothing that won't come out with primer. I've only got 2 layers of paint to deal with and my guess is depending on how many times your car was repainted (and how well the job was done) has a lot to do with which method works best. Chemical stripping still might be the easiest way to do the door jams.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 07:00 PM
  #38  
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if you put a lille bend in the razor blade, curve it, you can get to the tight spots
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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I remember reading in t he 70-72 NCRS book that the factory painted gray and red primer, followed by the paint....

Bill
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 08:27 PM
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If there is a tool and die shop in your area they may have some pieces of rule die stock they would probably let you have. It is thicker than a razor blade, sharp on one edge, bendable and I think it would work perfect.
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