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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 12:57 AM
  #21  
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TOMB1, there are many different ways to paint a corvette.I agree with ahoover,prime using ppg dplf reduced. then address all your small problems with polyester putties I prefer evercoat rage extreme,and for pinholes rage metal glaze. be very carefull with pinholes make shure they are filled (not coverd over) this is an area that can trap solvent and cause paint poping on a hot day ,my best advise is get data sheets on the primers and follow the dry and cure times to the letter. polyester high build primers will be your (gell coat) . some times I dont use the dplf and just do all my filling directly to the fiber glass and then use the polyester primer and then do more filling then use the dplf as a final sealer. there are many other ways and other products. just follow the directions on the data sheet it even tells you the grit sand scratches to go over, dont second guess the mfg. good luck with youe project.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by gator79
I know on metal you usually grind the surface so the filler can get a good grip. is this necessary with fiberglass. I mainly need to smooth out the seams from the bonding strips.

Are your bonding strips starting to seperate, if they are you will need to do other things to repair the strips once they start to seperate. I usually make a V shape groove in the strip and then tape off glass next to the groove and fill in with epoxy resin. Making the groove is a real PITA and I use 7" angle grinder and some 36 grit paper to make groove, Good Luck, houstonvett
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 10:38 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by gator79
only the very early vettes had gel coat C 3's never did. gel coat is for boats
Actually, Corvettes never had a "Gelcoat". Early vettes (C-1's) were transparent resin/mat. C-2's and early C-3's were polyester RIM (Resin In Mat) molded . Later C-3's and all C-4's were SMC (Sheet Molded Compound). We occasionally will use gel-coat on early vettes only, when the damage to the surface is severe.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 10:40 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by gator79
Big G
is the 180 to rough it up for the filler? also my sanding blocks are like the yellow one. thanks for the input
Yes
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 12:26 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by houstonvett
Are your bonding strips starting to seperate, if they are you will need to do other things to repair the strips once they start to seperate. I usually make a V shape groove in the strip and then tape off glass next to the groove and fill in with epoxy resin. Making the groove is a real PITA and I use 7" angle grinder and some 36 grit paper to make groove, Good Luck, houstonvett
just one has a line in it abot 3 inches, behind the passenger door on the quater panel. not sure if it is stress crack or seperation but it is not bad at all. how do you get the resin to stay in the groove? do you thicken it?
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 01:15 PM
  #26  
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no gel coat on my 69??? then what was that thick white stuff under the primer. Will this ppg dplf stick to bare fiberglass and should I fill the pin holes befor or after the dplf.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 01:34 PM
  #27  
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The factory resin is grey. Either someone has gel-coated it or that is a white primer. If the pin-holes are small and few, block them out. There shouldn't be any pinholes in primer after you sand it.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 01:59 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by big_G
Buy these now and thank me later....lol....get a catalog while your at it.
www.autobodytoolmart.com



Good link.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 02:27 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by TOM B1
no gel coat on my 69??? then what was that thick white stuff under the primer. Will this ppg dplf stick to bare fiberglass and should I fill the pin holes befor or after the dplf.
Tom, I have a gallon of gelcoat that I bought from Ecklers that I've never opened. I tried a quart of it on a hood I that had and frankly, I didn't like the way it sprayed. The gallon is yours if you want it. Just pay the UPS and I'll ship it to you. I have the hardener and instructions for it too. Additional hardener is available at any body or boat shop that sells supplies for working with fiberglass.

I ended up using PPG DPLF epoxy primer as a seal coat on the bare glass (The DPLF will stick to bare glass very well) and did my block sanding work with Evercoat's Slick-Sand. . It's about $60 for a gallon. Much less expensive than PPG's urethane primers or Dupont's URO primers and most of it will end up on your garage floor after blocking anyway. I then did my final blocking and sealing with Dupont URO and the top coat in Dupont's BC/CC chroma system. You can use polyester spot putty and a rubber squeegee for the small pin holes. Don't use the solvent based stuff. It shrinks and you'll see it later when your paint is finished.

As Big G said, you should buy an assortment of sanding blocks as he's listed. Use a firm block for block sanding and you'll find the low spots.
Patience makes perfect!
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 07:17 PM
  #30  
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ok thankyou all, and HERE WE GO!
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