started taking the engine apart
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
started taking the engine apart
well i started taking the engine apart to rebuild it. i drained all the fluids two days ago. today i worked on it for an hour after i got home from work so i didnt get to much done. i got the upper rad hose taken off and took the valve covers off and took off all the rockers and push rods so next i have to take off the intake and then the pully system and then the heads. i should have that done tomorrow. i will post some pictures tomorrow. 
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
no taking it out all the way. i got a new GMPP block that i am going to use for the bottom end along with a rebuild kit and some new forged flat top pistons. i have sunday off so i am thinking i should have it all out by then.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Why are you taking off all that stuff in the car. It is much easier to do it on a stand. Leave the heads and intake on and take off the pulleys and accesories and yank it. I even leave the fuel pump on. It is much easier to do it out than leaning over the fender and also risk dinging up the car.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,347
Likes: 9
From: Salinas Ca.
Originally Posted by Gordonm
Why are you taking off all that stuff in the car. It is much easier to do it on a stand. Leave the heads and intake on and take off the pulleys and accesories and yank it. I even leave the fuel pump on. It is much easier to do it out than leaning over the fender and also risk dinging up the car.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
ok so i started on it again a little while after i got home from work. i got the intake off and all the electrical diconnected and the starter off and i also pulled the lifters out while i was at it and unbolted the headers from the heads. now im off to go pick up my other engine stand from my storage unit so i can pull the engine and put it on the stand and start taking the rest of it apart. the hardest thing to take apart on this engine is the march pully kit that i got which i am not looking forward to 
i am hopping to have the engine on the other stand tonight. i have been taking pictures of everything as i take it apart and i will post them tonight. so far everything looks good and clean but kinda nervous to pull the passanger head sense that is the side that i had almost no compression on. wish me luck and i hope to have it out by tonight. 
i am hopping to have the engine on the other stand tonight. i have been taking pictures of everything as i take it apart and i will post them tonight. so far everything looks good and clean but kinda nervous to pull the passanger head sense that is the side that i had almost no compression on. wish me luck and i hope to have it out by tonight.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
ok so here is what i know so far. NOTHING i cant figure out why i had almost zero compression on cylinder 2,4 and 8 and 60 on 6 and about 140 on 1,3,5,7. there is a lot of oil on 2,4 and 8 and dry on 6 and lots of burnt oil on 1,3,5 and 7. i can see the top ring on all the cylinders and they all look the same with the same gap so im not sure why i had almost no compression on the passanger side and why there was so much blow by and why so much oil is in the cylenders. 
here are some pictures for everyone to look at.
number six cyl.
number 8
passanger head
front lifter from #2 cyl
all my lifters, plugs, pushrods, rocker arms and locking nuts
here are some pictures for everyone to look at. number six cyl.
number 8
passanger head
front lifter from #2 cyl
all my lifters, plugs, pushrods, rocker arms and locking nuts
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
i am so confused now and just having a little pitty party here. i thought i would find something that would be a dead giveaway to what was causing the problem but now im just confused. well the engine is on the stand so i am gonna take the pullies and oil pan off on sunday and work on it some more and see what i can find. well i can still see all the hone marks on all the cylenders and i am thinking that maybe the passanger rings just got washed and i am getting a lot of blow by but at the time i am confused cause that wouldnt cause zero compression. ok the more i think about this the more confussed i get. maybe the block deck isnt perfect? ok folks im gonna go take a shower and go to bed cause i have to be up at 5am to go to work tomorrow. i'll be back at it on sunday. can anyone think of what might have caused this? ok later all 
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
well i took the new GMPP block and pressure washed it and then dried it off and then put a coat of red paint on the outsides that show and used WD40 on the cylenders and the rest of the internal areas so it doesnt rust. the only thing that i have left to take off the old block is the crank, rods and pistons. the rest of the parts are all off. once i get the engine together i will use an artist brush to touch up the rest of the areas that show so there is no bare metal showing. i will post pictures once i start putting the new block together with the new parts. well i think i am done for the day so its time to catch up on some forum reading now. 
Pro
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 741
Likes: 47
From: Indianapolis IN
Well, other than something obviously broken (cracked cylinder walls, cracked cylinder heads, etc.) I always look for the following when I'm chasing a low/no compression issue:
- bad rings (I do a quick check by pouring a little oil into each cylinder - if it leaks out really quickly, that's a bad sign. Of course, this only checks the sealing at the bottom end of the cylinder.)
- bad head gasket (frequently indicated by low/no compression on adjacent cylinders)
- bad sealing valves (With the heads upside down, try a little oil in the combustion chambers, see if the closed valves let the oil pass through.)
- broken valve springs - one of the possible causes of bad sealing valves (If this is the case, you were lucky. Broken valve springs frequently lead to a dropped valve - that's not pretty.)
- bad cam - you don't get a lot of compression if the intake valve doesn't open (The bottoms of the lifters usually give you a very good clue as to the condition of the cam - the lifter bottom should be ever so slightly convex. If the bottom is concave, then the lifter and the corresponding cam lobe are toast.)
With all of the oil in those cylinders, I'd be very suspicious of the rings.
- bad rings (I do a quick check by pouring a little oil into each cylinder - if it leaks out really quickly, that's a bad sign. Of course, this only checks the sealing at the bottom end of the cylinder.)
- bad head gasket (frequently indicated by low/no compression on adjacent cylinders)
- bad sealing valves (With the heads upside down, try a little oil in the combustion chambers, see if the closed valves let the oil pass through.)
- broken valve springs - one of the possible causes of bad sealing valves (If this is the case, you were lucky. Broken valve springs frequently lead to a dropped valve - that's not pretty.)
- bad cam - you don't get a lot of compression if the intake valve doesn't open (The bottoms of the lifters usually give you a very good clue as to the condition of the cam - the lifter bottom should be ever so slightly convex. If the bottom is concave, then the lifter and the corresponding cam lobe are toast.)
With all of the oil in those cylinders, I'd be very suspicious of the rings.
Last edited by Bill Baird; Mar 12, 2006 at 10:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
Originally Posted by gator79
isn't that a fairly new motor? they would not warranty it?
the motor was rebuilt over 6 years ago but only had a few hundred miles on it and it never ran right after getting rebuilt plus it was done by a friend of my mothers so there is no warranty. oh well live and learn.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
ok i got the crank out and also the pistons out with the rods still atatched. well i nicked the journal on the crank with the threads from a rod while i was pushing the piston through the bore 
i guess that means i have to eith get the crank turned again or buy a new crank i was trying to be as careful as i could but i guess its gonna happen every now and then. if i get the crank turned that emans i will have to order another set of bearings again or i can spend the money on a new crank. not sure which route i will go yet. the nick isnt bad but i assume that if this happens it means it has to get fixed or replaced. the one dumb thing i did though was buying fuel line to put over the studs to prevent this but when i went out i forgot to put it on and it was the first one i pulled it was a long day at work today and i kept thinking that i didnt want to work on it but i didnt want to get behind so i decided even though i am really tired why not. NOTE TO SELF never get in a hurry and never work on the car again if i am tired and i want to get something done fast. if you want to go fast go slow and take your time taht way you dont spend more time fixing mistakes.
i guess that means i have to eith get the crank turned again or buy a new crank i was trying to be as careful as i could but i guess its gonna happen every now and then. if i get the crank turned that emans i will have to order another set of bearings again or i can spend the money on a new crank. not sure which route i will go yet. the nick isnt bad but i assume that if this happens it means it has to get fixed or replaced. the one dumb thing i did though was buying fuel line to put over the studs to prevent this but when i went out i forgot to put it on and it was the first one i pulled it was a long day at work today and i kept thinking that i didnt want to work on it but i didnt want to get behind so i decided even though i am really tired why not. NOTE TO SELF never get in a hurry and never work on the car again if i am tired and i want to get something done fast. if you want to go fast go slow and take your time taht way you dont spend more time fixing mistakes.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Aubrey Texas
Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
Minor aside. Where did you get that tray? i love it. Much more elegant than the block of wood that I normally use.
You read my mind.
I need that tray. Where did it come from?