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Hey Guys, got my wiring sheet on the 72 from Don and it's worth every cent, thxs to him. On to the question,I got my lighting un- engineered
and I'm having a time tracing down my wipers, it's a 72 with a two speed switch,and I beleive the wiring is intact, anyone with some pointers will be appreciated, thxs terry
After going through the brake/turn signal wiring I repaired the broken joints I found. When I got the car, there was a wire coming from the door( laying loose around the kick panel ) going up and winding up t-tapped at the window switch in the console.Long story short, this was someone's answer to the broken wire in the door jam. So as far as tracing the wires,not knowing if someone had already worked on it, finding out if the wires were where they needed to be would help.Hope that answers the question ,thxs for the reply,Terry
Terry, I understand now. Unfortunately there are a lot of "Bubba's" out there and it seems the first place they usually attack is the wiring. There are many places in the wiring harness that gremlins can hide and are poised for attack at any moment, or possibly never.
When I did my rebuild I removed all the harnesses from the dash forward and went though them wire by wire. I soldered bad spots back together and then used 2 layers of shrink wrap to assure of no future problems. Some people prefer to replace the harnesses and that's okay too, but kind of pricey. I feel mine are as good as new after repairs, but I had a lot more time then money. I used special wiring harness tape to restore the look to factory, the tape has no adhesive and works quite well. I used fiberglass high heat tape in the area near the starter (it's a 3M product) kinda hot in that area and I think it's an improvement from factory.
I would suggest removing the dash and dash cap for a real close look at the wiring and go from there. It sounds like a major undertaking, but it's really not all that bad. Take some pictures and pay attention on how the wires are routed. Replace any questionable termination connectors or lamp sockets, again I would recommend only soldered connections, not crimped on ones.