the only way
Body On Frame Refinishing
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 134
Likes: 5
From: North Ga
Body On Frame Refinishing
I have a '73 that's in good shape. I would like to coat the frame to protect it and make it look clean with POR-15 or equivalent.
How would you guys recommend refinishing the frame and accessible components with the frame on. I realize removing the body is the way to go. Looking for ideas,pictures of body on would provide inspiration.
How would you guys recommend refinishing the frame and accessible components with the frame on. I realize removing the body is the way to go. Looking for ideas,pictures of body on would provide inspiration.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
I don't think I would bother using POR-15 or similar products unless you are removing the body. POR-15 will only protect the areas that it covers and unfortunately many of the areas most prone to serious rust problems are not reachable with the body on the frame. If you clean the frame areas that you can reach and paint them with something like Rustoleum it should look good for a few years.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,269
Likes: 3
From: St. Charles IL
Cruise-In 5-6-7-8-9-11-12 Veteran
A CI-6 Car Show Winner
I would lift the body, or at least block it up a foot or so, that way you can reach those hard to get areas. Might not hurt to replace the fuel lines while it's up, they are a bear to do with the body on.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Ocean Gate, New Jersey
Lift the body?
Originally Posted by Big Fish
I would lift the body, or at least block it up a foot or so, that way you can reach those hard to get areas. Might not hurt to replace the fuel lines while it's up, they are a bear to do with the body on.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 1
From: Lafayette Louisiana
Originally Posted by Dan1973conv
How difficult is it to lift the body off the frame?
Disconnect: Wires to alt, ac, dist, fuel gauge/sending unit basically any wire that will stay with the body, vacuum lines, carb linkage, e-brake cable, trans cable, fuel lines to pump, brake lines at master cyl., trans. cooling lines at radiator, steering linkage, remove radiator and fan, body mount bolts, bolt up front that hold the frame extension(it will stay with the body). If applicable, remove as compressor from the engine and let it go with the body so you don't have to recharge the system. After you unhook all the other things I forgot to list, get 6 buddies or one hoist and lift it.
Thats all I can remember right off, maybe someone else will add to this.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Oakton VA
I'm doing a body-on now. My frame is in good shape, but has surface rust, road tar and dirt. A wire brush on a drill speeds the process. I've sanded as much as I can reach and primed it with red Rustoleum primer and covered it with Westwood chassis black paint. I have the engine out and the front suspension off so I can reach most of the front 1/3 of the frame. I had the gas tank and trailing arms off when I did the read 1/3. With the rocker panels off, you can reach most of the middle 1/3. I use newspaper to mask the stuff you don't want painted. It's a lot of work, but it looks really good. Get a box of disposable shop rags and a couple cans of mineral spirits and have at it.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 677
Likes: 5
From: Cary North Carolina
Lets see what I have at photobucket.
I also painted the engine without removing it.
I did not remove the body or even lift it. I used Por15 and top coated with rustoleum satin black. I removed the brake and fuel line mounting clips to paint underneath the lines. I also painted the brake and fuel lines it was easier that way. However, as you can see I don't give a rats a$$ about factory correct.
I also painted the engine without removing it.
I did not remove the body or even lift it. I used Por15 and top coated with rustoleum satin black. I removed the brake and fuel line mounting clips to paint underneath the lines. I also painted the brake and fuel lines it was easier that way. However, as you can see I don't give a rats a$$ about factory correct.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
I guess POR15 on the exposed areas cannot hurt.
Trust me - I am very fond of the product.
However, I think I would just hit it with some rattle can
paint if thinking about taking the body off in the future.
If you think the body will stay down for a long time - then
take the time to do POR or similar. It is a LOT of prep to
"do it right". If simply washing and painting - go with enamel.
I prefer Krylon semi-flat black (usually over silver POR15).
Good Luck
http://nhvette.homeunix.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_02.jpg
http://nhvette.homeunix.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_04.jpg
http://nhvette.homeunix.com/ftp/in/chassis_02.jpg
Trust me - I am very fond of the product.
However, I think I would just hit it with some rattle can
paint if thinking about taking the body off in the future.
If you think the body will stay down for a long time - then
take the time to do POR or similar. It is a LOT of prep to
"do it right". If simply washing and painting - go with enamel.
I prefer Krylon semi-flat black (usually over silver POR15).
Good Luck
http://nhvette.homeunix.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_02.jpg
http://nhvette.homeunix.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_04.jpg
http://nhvette.homeunix.com/ftp/in/chassis_02.jpg
Last edited by NHvette; Mar 14, 2006 at 12:42 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 1
From: St Augustine FL
I have started in the rear of my car working with a wire brush in a drill. Once I get the crud off what I can reach, I have been painting the surface rust areas with a primer stuff called Ospho which changes the chemical make up of rust into something else that is non corrosive. Then I have been painting parts with Satin Black or Chrome Rustolium. I have thought about using a black undercarraige paint but im not too far into it yet. Should I switch paints? What do you guys think?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,135
Likes: 71
From: Umeå Sweden
Originally Posted by Yellow73SB
I recomend hammerite for body-ons. It supposed to change rust back into metal.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,248
Likes: 48
From: westland mi
i also did a frame on. i'm an advocate of por-15 also, great stuff, used it on my shell, frame, and all suspension parts then top coated. i've been using por-15 since it 1st arrived on the scene back in the early 90's, wish'd i'd a bought stock in it! i also used Krylon semi-flat black for topcoat on the frame, don't like shiny frames.
Last edited by rosslato; Mar 15, 2006 at 12:47 PM. Reason: to add
