68 door lock cylinders .
When I bought my 68 about 5 years ago, there where no door lock keys ith it. When I tryed to remove the lock cylinders, they disintegrated to dust, completely unusebale. I found a reasonable one used, so took it apart , removed the 5 key plates , went to a lock smith just to find out that 68 keys are again unique. No way . I got fed up , also because this lock already started to produce this white powder inside ( cast corrosion ).
So I went ahead and ordered GM 74-90 locks with keys P/N DL-5.
After removing the stainless cover, the blank cylinder comes out and fits perfectly into the 68 outer shell lock and stainless push cover.
Of course, the end bit required modification, but this was rather easy.
I now have 2 brand new locks in the original 68 push button setup, completely unvisible from the outside and still have my original 68 cylinders which I possibly can get overhauled at a later date.
This is a chep mod taking some hours of fabing, but well worth the effort.
The next 2 pics show from left to right :
#1 , the outside shell of the 74 lock. ( removed and now scrap )
# 2, the complete 74 door lock cylinder
# 3, the 74 cylinder with the 68 end installed ( it is 90 degrees turned to the original end ( that is now cut off ) of the 74 cylinder.
# 4, the 68 blank cylinder , above the 68 lock housing and top the 68 stainless push button housing.
# 5, the old 68 cylinder assy, completely corroded inside , the end bit removed and installed to the 74 cylinder. ( it is only pressed into the 68 cylinder. )

This pics shows again from left to right
# 1, 74 cylinder inside the 68 lock housing and push button stainless housing with the 68 end installed .
# 2, 74 complete lock cylinder, new
# 3, 68 blank cylinder
# 4, the old U/S 68 lock cylinder assy, end removed .
This should make it again an 35 years +.
This summer, I can lock my doors and bad boys now have to cut my top open to get in.
Günther
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corve...QQcmdZViewItem
Bryan
Regardless, Good work Gunther! Two sayings from my parts work well here: "Necessity is the mother of invention" "There's more than one way to skin a cat"
Yes, I contacted Paragon for the rebuild service. About 25 USD each, but I am sure, the bare cylinder must be corrosion free. Myne on the car are not. All is diintegrating into white powder.
The once on E-bay are again without keys. May be rebuildable , may be not ? They will be at least 100 USD + taking the chance.
My locks are now like new, the cylinders definately are and I am happy as is.
From the outside and even, looking inside the door , you will not be able to see any difference. You must take the cylinder out of the housing to spot it.
Anyway, I promise I will tell a potential buyer, if I ever decide to sell my 68. Right now, I intend to keep it as long as there is fuel available.
Günther
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I will be trying this so I asked him for the pictures. See pics below:
Thanks Gunther...
When I bought my 68 about 5 years ago, there where no door lock keys ith it. When I tryed to remove the lock cylinders, they disintegrated to dust, completely unusebale. I found a reasonable one used, so took it apart , removed the 5 key plates , went to a lock smith just to find out that 68 keys are again unique. No way . I got fed up , also because this lock already started to produce this white powder inside ( cast corrosion ).
So I went ahead and ordered GM 74-90 locks with keys P/N DL-5.
After removing the stainless cover, the blank cylinder comes out and fits perfectly into the 68 outer shell lock and stainless push cover.
Of course, the end bit required modification, but this was rather easy.
I now have 2 brand new locks in the original 68 push button setup, completely unvisible from the outside and still have my original 68 cylinders which I possibly can get overhauled at a later date.
This is a chep mod taking some hours of fabing, but well worth the effort.
The next 2 pics show from left to right :
#1 , the outside shell of the 74 lock. ( removed and now scrap )
# 2, the complete 74 door lock cylinder
# 3, the 74 cylinder with the 68 end installed ( it is 90 degrees turned to the original end ( that is now cut off ) of the 74 cylinder.
# 4, the 68 blank cylinder , above the 68 lock housing and top the 68 stainless push button housing.
# 5, the old 68 cylinder assy, completely corroded inside , the end bit removed and installed to the 74 cylinder. ( it is only pressed into the 68 cylinder. )

This pics shows again from left to right
# 1, 74 cylinder inside the 68 lock housing and push button stainless housing with the 68 end installed .
# 2, 74 complete lock cylinder, new
# 3, 68 blank cylinder
# 4, the old U/S 68 lock cylinder assy, end removed .
This should make it again an 35 years +.
This summer, I can lock my doors and bad boys now have to cut my top open to get in.
Günther

Last edited by carriljc; Feb 28, 2017 at 10:31 AM.
Are you saying that 1965 Chevy Truck doorlock pushbuttons are the same as 68 corvette doorlock pushbuttons?
Last edited by carriljc; May 21, 2020 at 09:02 PM.
Last edited by doorgunner; Jan 11, 2026 at 12:03 PM.
My driver side is broken and I've been putting it off for years.... really the door locking lever (I believe it's called a "door lock pawl")broke off....
I wrote to Classic Industries and asked if they had some 65 chevy truck door lock assemblies...since I did not see them in their catalog. If they answer me, and they do, then I'll go eyeball them.
Last edited by carriljc; May 22, 2020 at 07:18 PM.
When I bought my 68 about 5 years ago, there where no door lock keys ith it. When I tryed to remove the lock cylinders, they disintegrated to dust, completely unusebale. I found a reasonable one used, so took it apart , removed the 5 key plates , went to a lock smith just to find out that 68 keys are again unique. No way . I got fed up , also because this lock already started to produce this white powder inside ( cast corrosion ).
So I went ahead and ordered GM 74-90 locks with keys P/N DL-5.
After removing the stainless cover, the blank cylinder comes out and fits perfectly into the 68 outer shell lock and stainless push cover.
Of course, the end bit required modification, but this was rather easy.
I now have 2 brand new locks in the original 68 push button setup, completely unvisible from the outside and still have my original 68 cylinders which I possibly can get overhauled at a later date.
This is a chep mod taking some hours of fabing, but well worth the effort.
The next 2 pics show from left to right :
#1 , the outside shell of the 74 lock. ( removed and now scrap )
# 2, the complete 74 door lock cylinder
# 3, the 74 cylinder with the 68 end installed ( it is 90 degrees turned to the original end ( that is now cut off ) of the 74 cylinder.
# 4, the 68 blank cylinder , above the 68 lock housing and top the 68 stainless push button housing.
# 5, the old 68 cylinder assy, completely corroded inside , the end bit removed and installed to the 74 cylinder. ( it is only pressed into the 68 cylinder. )


This pics shows again from left to right
# 1, 74 cylinder inside the 68 lock housing and push button stainless housing with the 68 end installed .
# 2, 74 complete lock cylinder, new
# 3, 68 blank cylinder
# 4, the old U/S 68 lock cylinder assy, end removed .
This should make it again an 35 years +.
This summer, I can lock my doors and bad boys now have to cut my top open to get in.

Günther
[/QUOTE]





Last edited by loup68; Jan 12, 2026 at 06:42 PM.










store it until I get my bannanna powered 502 going.







