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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 06:04 PM
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Default What does it mean when...

You need a hot shot every time you start the car, and while you are driving, the "Fasten your seatbelt" light stays on, even when your seatbelt is fastened?

Also, my turn signal sounds funny... Its slower...

Last edited by Jerry Curl; Mar 25, 2006 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:13 PM
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Have your alternator checked.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by windsoreight
Have your alternator checked.

that's the first thing I'd check.
If you have a muti-meter to check voltage you can do it yourself.

first check the voltage output at the alternator.
1. check voltage at idle - should be around 11-12volts output
2. check voltage with car above idle at approx 1100-1200rpm. voltage should be around 14.4 volts
3. check voltage at battery to see if battery is getting a charge - with car running at approx 1100-1200rpm you should see approx 12-13 volts at the battery.

the first two tests are to check the alternator itself, the 3rd test is to make sure there isn't a problem somewhere between the alternator and the battery.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BarryK
that's the first thing I'd check.
If you have a muti-meter to check voltage you can do it yourself.

first check the voltage output at the alternator.
1. check voltage at idle - should be around 11-12volts output
2. check voltage with car above idle at approx 1100-1200rpm. voltage should be around 14.4 volts
3. check voltage at battery to see if battery is getting a charge - with car running at approx 1100-1200rpm you should see approx 12-13 volts at the battery.

the first two tests are to check the alternator itself, the 3rd test is to make sure there isn't a problem somewhere between the alternator and the battery.
Dont have a multi-meter.

What happened was, I went to the auto store to buy some wax and other cleaning stuff. Car was fine on the way there.

But half way there I noticed the radio cut out briefly every few seconds.

When I came out of the store, it wouldnt start. Had to get a hot shot.

Then I spent some time with the new shifter. Wouldnt start, had to get a hot shot. Then I returned the old shifter. Wouldnt start, had to get a hot shot.

So I drove it for a while to let it charge. Notived the turn signal clicking was slow. The noticed the seatbelt light.

Came home, turned it off. Tried to start it again, nothing.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:30 PM
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well, for what it would cost just have have a shop check out the alternator for you (or less!) you could run over to Radio Shack and pick up a basic multi-meter to check it out yourself.

Otherwise, get the car started and take it to a place that does alternator repairs and let them check it for you
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:32 PM
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Would the alternator effect things like leaving that seatbelt light on?
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 07:36 PM
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with the alternator not working properly the entire electrial system is going to go funky on you. Also , if the alternator is dead it could be internally shorted causeing a ground issue thoughout the car causing all sorts of strange behavior to any of the systems.
Vettes have enough issues with grounding problems so anything that can affect proper grounding can cause major problems and strange happenings.

If the problem isn't the alternator my next guess would be a ground issue somewhere.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 08:07 PM
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If I need to replace the alternator, is that something I can pick up at a local auto store, or do I need to buy one frome Ecklers or some place like that?

Is this an easy install? Never done this before.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 08:12 PM
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I replaced the alt on a 77 I owned and when I went to the parts house and told them what it was going on the price was unreal! The guy behind the counter was super cool and looked through his books and found that the same alt can be purchased for $150 bucks cheaper if I told them it was for a camaro. He said the part numbers were even the same. I was floored! Of course I bought the cheaper one and it worked great.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 08:33 PM
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You can find 100amp chrome ones for Corvette on e-bay for $79.00. Now they might be rebuilds, I'm not sure.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 09:36 PM
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They ARE rebuilds and there is absolutely othing wrong with that. Get the battery AND alternator checked. Pull it out and take it to autozone, they have a tester. You can chanhe it, 1 wire, 1 plug and 3 bolts.
Might be a good idea to aquire an inexpensive voltmeter and learn how to use it. Get a shop manual and a Assembly manual. You got questions, we got answers
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 09:58 PM
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Yeah, Im going to get a voltmeter tomorrow and see whats going on. Then replace the alternator myself (if that turns out to be it).

I just never really worked on cars before, so I get nervous.

When I test it, should the car be on or off or both?
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 10:48 PM
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I would suggest getting things like alternators, water pumps, PS pumps, etc... from NAPA. Sometimes it takes a day or two to get it, but I've ordered a ton of stuff from them. They even have some of it in stock, as many parts are common with other vehicles. I got my clutch kit from them and it was on the shelf I've even ordered rear end seals, transmission seals, rotors, etc... from them. I'm happy with the quality, and the majority of stuff (in fact everything I've recieved so far) is USA manufactured (even my rotors).
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Jerry Curl
Yeah, Im going to get a voltmeter tomorrow and see whats going on. Then replace the alternator myself (if that turns out to be it).

I just never really worked on cars before, so I get nervous.

When I test it, should the car be on or off or both?

whever you get it, have it bench tested before you take it home, also you local pepeboys will diagnose your chaarging system for 20 buck or so, then youll knowfor sure, also it is a good time to check your bat cables too, specifically the gound.


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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 11:25 AM
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Jerry, your going to check the thing with the voltmeter in several places with the engine on and off. With it off you should read battery voltage 12.2 or so at the battery and at the alternator. With the engine running you should get 14.4 or so at the alternator and 13.something at the battery depending on the state of charge. Another check is engine off and disconnect battery positive cable and check for drain, should be 30 or so mil. If its significantly more than that, there is something shorted, turned on or a bad alternator. Disconnecting the alt should make it go away.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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Hi, If you go the rebuilt alt. route make sure that the wires(in the plastic plug) hook up in the same position as the one you have, otherwise you may find that the wires will not reach or be in the way for something else, it is an easy procedure to do and if the one they sell ya isnt the same ,, they should be able to clock it for ya. good luck,,, Peace,, Moosie
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 12:35 PM
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good point moosie, I have run into that before too
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 02:20 PM
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I think I see the problem.

After looking closely at the alternator, I noticed the red cable was no longer in the plastic boot that plugs into the alternator. I can see the little sleave still inside the plastic clip though.


Now, do I need to replace all this wire?
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 06:23 PM
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just put a new terminal on the end, should be ok. Be careful not to over tighten it or twist the stud. Look closely and make sure the plastic piece on the alternator is not melted. might still be a good idea to get it tested.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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It didnt appear melted. I pulled out the sleeve, crimped it on the wire and stuck it back in. Worked like a charm thus far.
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