Well, here's my dilemma. I just found out that my '71 B/B has camshaft problems. It seems that when Bubba rebuilt the engine, he didn't prelube the engine or didn't break in the cam correctly. I just bought the car a month ago.

This was supposed to have 1000 miles on it. It's a good thing thats all it had, because it was a hand grenade waiting to happen.

My friend, who is a top notch engine builder, discovered the problem when he was looking into carb gremlins.

The good news is the dealer who I bought it from is not running and hiding. It really isn't his fault either, because it was a 3-way deal where he bought the car, I bought it from him and he took my C-5 in trade. He said he would make this right and I believe him at this point.

My dilemma is, should I pull the #'s matching block and install a crate motor? Another option is to buy a short block and use the Edelbrock Aluminum heads that are on the car right now. My third option is to pull the engine and check the lower end and cylinder bore to make sure no iron dust has raised hell with it, and re-do it.

My buddy has a strong feeling that I willl be looking at another .010 over(it's already .030) and a complete re-build.

Should I be looking into a 502 crate?? If that's the case, where can I find the best deals?? If a short block is an viable option, who has the best prices on them??

In the end it is all about how bad the original engine looks, but if my luck holds true to form, it's gonna be a mess !!

Thanks for any input, it's time to have a cocktail and contemplate my options. Help and advice is always appreciated!!!

 

If you wanna show it and keep value, rebuild what ya got. If your gonna drive it, and keep a little less value, a little itty bitty 502 is a nice sunday driver.

I have a matching numbers 71 454, and I have done cooling mods and run synthetic oil just to keep that engine in top performance and lube. If I dont have #'s matching, my value drops from around 50 grand to 30 grand. So I would take a 20 grand hit on value. Then the cost of the crate plus install, well I am quickly going 25 grand negative.

Oh hell, fire your CPA and build it like ya want it.....

 

If you want a 502 check out Salee Chevrolet.

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/

Seems like I hear some really good stuff around here about them. I always say that pulling and storing the origianl engine is a good idea if you are concerned about originality. You can always put it back in later, but in the mean time, tear ithe road up with the crate.

 

That is why I'm considering a crate motor or a short block. The car doesn't have the original heads or intake, but those are only date code specific, and they are around to be bought. The original block is already .030 over. If I have to go another .010 to clean it up, the next time around will be it's last.

This car is what I would consider a resto-mod car. Far be it from NCRS standards, but it is matching #'s. The dealer where I bought it from is looking at rebuilding it for me, but I'm going to try and get $$$ and do it here to make sure it gets done right.

 

I wouldn't worry about another 10 over, taken care care and not being a daily driver if done right it should last a life time..

 

You said in your post that your friend is a top notch engine builder. Why don't you have him rebuild your original big block. He's already determined the problem for you. I would have him yank it and do what is necessary. You know it will be done right.

 

Yeah, he is. That is why I am considering a short block also. The $$$ involved would be about a wash and the original block will be sitting instead of being run.

Time is also a factor. All the machine shops around here are swamped with spring fever in full swing.

Tuesday the engine is coming out and I'll have a better assesment of the condition the original engine is in.