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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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Default HELP Please

I have what appears to be starter heat soak problem for lack of a better term.
I just removed the brand new starter and put in another used starter that has always started my car in the past. Same symptoms.
Car starts excellent when cold, let it run for 15 or 20 minutes, shut it down, try to restart and no luck. Will not turn over. Let it cool down, starts perfect again.
Battery is brand new, engine is brand new, has not been driven on road yet just run in the car which is up on jackstands. Has been run approximately 5 hours since it was installed in car. Checked ground cable, good clean ground but replaced it anyway. Checked all connections and cleaned them again just to be sure.
Car is factory stock small block L79. I want to keep it stock and not mount Ford solenoid on fender, or replace starter with a ministarter, or wrap starter in blanket or bubba anything. I spent to many years and to much moeny to get it back to stock. They did not have this problem when they left the factory with brand new engines in 1968 or any other year for that matter.
Any thoughts or suggestions on what could be causing this.
I now have a brand new 1968 Corvette completely restored that I just registered and insured this week and now cannot drive.
Thanks for any thoughts as I am not thinking straight right now,
Kurt
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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I have a similar problem on my 72 SB. My rebuilt starter will start the car but if I drive it and shut it off it won't spin. The Problem according to my local mech (who does the stuff I can't) is that the bendix gear doesn't retract all the way back. This is generally caused by the clearances changing when you remove and reinstall the starter. (I had my original rebuilt)

NAPA sells a package of shims that you use to alleviate the problem. I haven't done mine yet as it happened just prior to putting it away for the winter. Going to in the next few weeks.

What I discovered when it happened to me in town was that if I loosened the mounting bolts banged it once and retightened it would work ... once.

Good luck
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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same prob with my 75. i still am not on the road yet, but i can see it being a problem soon as the header runs right around it.i am not opposed to a shield if i can find a pic of one to go from.mine did not have one when i got it.
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 04:40 PM
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Update:
Now I am thinking it might be the new factory original tar top battery I purchased from Restoration Battery. It might not be powerful enough, because I just tried starting it and when it wouldn't I hit the "boost" button on my Sears battery charger and it was enough to start it. If it was shims or bendix or wires, then it should not have started so maybe my $160.00 dated code factory original tar top battery is not powerful enough. Looks good but won't start the car. What a bargain.
Do you guys think that could be it since it started when I hit the charger?
Kurt
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 04:50 PM
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When the starter gets hot it will draw more amps from the battery to start it. I would check the cables and cable ends along with all ground connections too. Even the stock Chevy battery should have enough amps to start the car if it is in good working order. See if the cables get hot when trying to start the car. If they do you might want to go to a set of bigger starter wires also. Cables might not be big enough to flow the amps needed to start the car, houstonvett
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 04:56 PM
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I have to agree on the weak (Restoration) batteries. Great fro NCRS points, not so great for everyday use or long life. Have it load tested.
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 04:59 PM
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Lack of amperage could be the problem, IMO. If the solenoid gets hot from the exhaust and the parts expand just enough to induce some drag (friction), then a battery that's weak or not rated high enough might not be strong enough to overcome the added resistance. Strictly my unscientific opinion.

I had a '68 camaro once with headers and those things would heat the crap out of my starter and solenoid, just like you describe. I would carry a big pipe around with me (or 1/2" drive breaker bar) and bang on the starter; that usually freed it up enough when it was hot. I got rid of the headers and the problem went away.

My '70 has a small heat shield on it behind the solenoid wires; if yours is missing, that might be the problem also. Good luck !
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 10:48 PM
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Just for the sake of discussion I have had headers on my car since it passed the 15K miles mark in 73. This is the first problem I've ever had with the starter.
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 11:04 PM
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I had a similar problem with my 69 Camaro. I went through the same traps you described with no luck. I got a wiring diagram and found out a wire (yellow) that is supposed to run from the + side of the coil to the starter was missing. I put that on there and it did the trick. I don't know if the Vette came with one of those or not but you might check that out.
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 11:22 PM
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A geared mini starter will eliminate your hot soak starting problems. It is not original, but it is a completely effective solution.

They also sell starter insulating jackets, but that is more of a band-aid approach.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 12:03 AM
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yank the starter out and pull it apart, check it for clearance in the bendix, junk in there and make sure the contacts are nice and square with each other. If its a bit off and gets hot it won't work. What exactly does it do when its hot and you hit the key? Just click? if so its the bendix, if it tries to turn over but drags, its a starter motor problem, open winding or something.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 07:35 AM
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this worked for me.
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...id+Heat+Shield
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by houstonvett
When the starter gets hot it will draw more amps from the battery to start it. I would check the cables and cable ends along with all ground connections too. Even the stock Chevy battery should have enough amps to start the car if it is in good working order. See if the cables get hot when trying to start the car. If they do you might want to go to a set of bigger starter wires also. Cables might not be big enough to flow the amps needed to start the car, houstonvett
That's what fixed mine. Installed new cable with new connectors.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 09:21 AM
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Six footer,
It tries to turn over but drags and won't even make one complete revolution. Soem suggested the engine might be real tight because it is new but so weren't all the cars that left the factory and they all started up and ran. When cold, I can reach in the window turn the key and she starts up immediately.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 11:58 AM
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Hmm, sounds like the starter has a bug in it somewhere, its basically weak when hot. This can be caused by the field windings connections being weak, partially shorted when hot, open when hot, Also the stator can have the same heat related bugs. If it tries to turn over its probly not the bendix although you should still check the contacts. They still could have a problem.
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