How Hard to Change Wheel Studs?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton NJ
How Hard to Change Wheel Studs?
Team,
I'm looking into wheel adapters so I can use a set of AE wheels I own. The seller claims you need a stud of at least 1.25 inches...seems the stock studs on my '79 are just a smidge over 1 inch and he doesn't recommend using his adapters since the nut will not have enough stud to fully seat. My thought is to swap out the existing 7/16 studs with 12mm that are 1.25 inch. I'm not sure how much disassembly of the rear you need to do to make this change. Thoughts?
There are other approaches i can take but I like the idea of using the hub-centric adapters.
Thanks,
Steve
I'm looking into wheel adapters so I can use a set of AE wheels I own. The seller claims you need a stud of at least 1.25 inches...seems the stock studs on my '79 are just a smidge over 1 inch and he doesn't recommend using his adapters since the nut will not have enough stud to fully seat. My thought is to swap out the existing 7/16 studs with 12mm that are 1.25 inch. I'm not sure how much disassembly of the rear you need to do to make this change. Thoughts?
There are other approaches i can take but I like the idea of using the hub-centric adapters.
Thanks,
Steve
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
From: Dunbarton NH
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1320089
This is from Norval:
This is from Norval:
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
this is a copy of that post
I wanted to upgrade my wheel studs from 7/16 to ½ inch and I didn’t want to remove the spindles from the car. I was using a stud from Morosso with a .615 knurl and the stock stud holes need to be drilled out.
With a hand drill there is no way of keeping the new holes square with the flange so I made a fixture .
It was made from a piece of 1 inch diameter by about 3 inch long round stock and a piece of 1 ½ by ¼ inch by 3 inch flat stock. The 2 pieces are welded together.
After welding the two pieces are put in a lathe and the hole is drilled in the round and flat stock and then the flat stock is faced off to the hole and bottom of the fixture is at right angles to each other.
A locater pin is also required so the fixture can be accurately place over the hole.
For a locater I turned a piece of ¾ inch round stock down to fit inside the fixture and a smaller end that fits in the existing hole in the spindle after the stud is punched out.
I do NOT run dust shields. On the rear on the drivers side at the 9 oclock position a stud can be driven out, the fixture clamped over the hole with a pair of c clamps, a hand drill used the drill the new hole and a full 3 inch long x ½ inch morosso stud installed. There is room without the dust shield.
ON the passengers side it is at 3 oclock.
If the stud has a .615 knurl and that is common you have a choice of a 19/32 drill or .594 diameter hole or a 39/64th or .609 hole. I would try the .594 hole first and see if a stud would pull in. If not go for the 39/64 hole and a .006 press fit.
I don’t remember which I used since I have all the drills in the shop and don’t remember which I used.
Place the locater pin in the fixture, insert the small end of the locater in the existing hole and using clamps secure the fixture to the hub, remove the locater and drill with a hand drill.
Both of the above drill bits will work.
Good luck
This is a picture of the fixture
I wanted to upgrade my wheel studs from 7/16 to ½ inch and I didn’t want to remove the spindles from the car. I was using a stud from Morosso with a .615 knurl and the stock stud holes need to be drilled out.
With a hand drill there is no way of keeping the new holes square with the flange so I made a fixture .
It was made from a piece of 1 inch diameter by about 3 inch long round stock and a piece of 1 ½ by ¼ inch by 3 inch flat stock. The 2 pieces are welded together.
After welding the two pieces are put in a lathe and the hole is drilled in the round and flat stock and then the flat stock is faced off to the hole and bottom of the fixture is at right angles to each other.
A locater pin is also required so the fixture can be accurately place over the hole.
For a locater I turned a piece of ¾ inch round stock down to fit inside the fixture and a smaller end that fits in the existing hole in the spindle after the stud is punched out.
I do NOT run dust shields. On the rear on the drivers side at the 9 oclock position a stud can be driven out, the fixture clamped over the hole with a pair of c clamps, a hand drill used the drill the new hole and a full 3 inch long x ½ inch morosso stud installed. There is room without the dust shield.
ON the passengers side it is at 3 oclock.
If the stud has a .615 knurl and that is common you have a choice of a 19/32 drill or .594 diameter hole or a 39/64th or .609 hole. I would try the .594 hole first and see if a stud would pull in. If not go for the 39/64 hole and a .006 press fit.
I don’t remember which I used since I have all the drills in the shop and don’t remember which I used.
Place the locater pin in the fixture, insert the small end of the locater in the existing hole and using clamps secure the fixture to the hub, remove the locater and drill with a hand drill.
Both of the above drill bits will work.
Good luck
This is a picture of the fixture
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton NJ
Originally Posted by gliot1
They're typically just knurled and seated in the hole. You should be able to just drive them out.
Thanks
