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i was wondering if the center section and the half-shafts of a 78-79 will bolt up to my 71? a guy is selling the complete rear end, trailing arms, disks and calipers, everything. he is also going to give me 2 complete front ends that are still on the front half of the frame, all for $500.00. I'm not worried about the front end stuff as i don't really need that but its a good deal. the reason im getting another rear end is because im having a stroked 383 built and the stock stuff with the small half-shafts is not going to last long with the new motor. thanks for you help.
There's some period in there around 79 that they changed some things from the earlier design, you'll see it broke down in the parts catalogs, I know the leaf spring width changed about that period. I wouldn't worry to much about the halfshafts, you'll tend to brake u-joints before that point. After all the LS-6 and L-88 cars still ran the smaller shafts.
Major difference is the rear spring bolts....78-79 used a smaller bolt and wider spring BUT a simple cover change will get you going...
BTW, if you have any 69+up manual steering center link/drag link/relay rods I am looking to purchase some...it would have ONLY three holes. e-mail direct if you have any you want to sell. redvetracr@msn.com
From: Oakville ON "Real Corvettes have folding tops..."
Believe the major change was in 80. There were some differences in the half shafts u joints. Also carriers were diffeent depending upon geraing groups. But I think a 78 will fit on a 71.
Thanks guys for the info, im going to go ahead and get the stuff. redvetracrfrom what i remember both front ends were power steering, but i will find out for sure. if i do have what your looking for i will let you know.
They are not all the same. The yokes are different on the earlier to later cars so check to see what you have. The 78 and 79's are prone to failing from loose ring gear bolts, have junk clutches in them, but have good carrier castings. The best thing you can do is build one to suit your application- I would not buy and bolt in a used differential without looking it over- in fact I still wouldn't until I built it.
The 1/2 shafts are better as they are 3" instead of the 2.5" your car had. The rear strut rods are the larger heads too so if you use them tesat fit them in the supports for binding at extreme travel.
If you do a search on my name you'll find a few posts with pictures detailing the rear ends and what goes wrong with them. If you have any questions let me know.
Good luck
Yea i was not going to be bolting it right in. the thing is in the guys back yard hidden in tall grass. my plan is to slowly buy all the stuff i would need to build it strong. the rear end in my car is not going to fail right away, at least i hope it doesn't. so im going to have the the new rear end somewhat ready for when the stock one dies. When i did look at it had quite a lot of rust. it may be more trouble than its worth. i think i will take some pics and post them up and see what you guys think. stay tuned
NO...the rearends changed in 78. The 78-82 rearend is designed for ride comfort and can not handle a lot of HP. 68-77 can handle the HP. I have herd many stories of 78-82 mods resulting in twisted rearends. That is what I have been told anyway.
NO...the rearends changed in 78. The 78-82 rearend is designed for ride comfort and can not handle a lot of HP. 68-77 can handle the HP. I have herd many stories of 78-82 mods resulting in twisted rearends. That is what I have been told anyway.
The 78 -79 were cast iron and the only change was cost cutting measures by GM going with flanged head bolts instead of the of tried and true lock washers and bolts. The carriers were Eatons and the clutches were/are junk.
The 80-82 were aluminum and used all new parts, nowhere as good as a 63-79 differential. Now if you were takling about the rear suspension the only chane was the spring with but the ride was the same. Teh 1/2 shaft were bigger starting in 75 as were the strut rod heads. The rear spindles and bearings are all the same.The 73+ used rubber body mounts instead of aluminum "pucks" and shims.
I have decided to not buy the rear end. I'm just going to run the original one till it brakes and go from there. that way i know it will fit and i don't have to worry about any other factors. Thanks again for all the great info.