Rear bumper replacement ?s
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 316
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From: Grand Forks North Dakota
Rear bumper replacement ?s
Lots of these threads lately, I know, but I have a couple quick questions. I'm installing a truflex rear bumper on my '76. Do I need the factory taillamp mounting pieces bolted to the metal bumper or are they left off since the taillamps are supported by the fiberglass bumper now? Also, just to make sure I have no fitment issues should I remove the shims from the rear metal bumper and mount it solid to the supports since it's no longer used for aligning the taillamp mounts? All my shims and the bolts are missing from the pass side metal bumper mount, so this would make it a little easier for me if I could just bolt it directly to the mounts with no shims.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
If it's anything like the 75 Ecklers fiberglass one I had,
yes - remove thye taillight supports. You might also need
to remove the aluminum support pieces that bolt to the bumper bar.
I'll try to find a pic of what I had underneath ... pretty sure I can dig one up.
.. or not. I looked and can't find a good pic. I'll check at home this weekend.
yes - remove thye taillight supports. You might also need
to remove the aluminum support pieces that bolt to the bumper bar.
I'll try to find a pic of what I had underneath ... pretty sure I can dig one up.
.. or not. I looked and can't find a good pic. I'll check at home this weekend.
Last edited by NHvette; May 5, 2006 at 02:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Grand Forks North Dakota
Yes, I was thinking about that piece too, the one directly behind the badge/letters on the original bumper? How well was the fit on your bumper, any big problems? Thanks for the quick reply.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
The previous owner installed it, so I cannot comment on the install.
I only removed it. I still have the 75 carcass in the driveway, so
I will try to get a fresh pic tomorrow ... Monday at the latest.
I only removed it. I still have the 75 carcass in the driveway, so
I will try to get a fresh pic tomorrow ... Monday at the latest.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 22
From: Yooperville MI
If you eliminate the tail light brackets, you eliminate an important mounting area for the bumper and place the entire weight of the bumper on the rear body flange alone. The deck and lower quarter panels are supported by the bumper. Take the extra time to make the tail light brackets fit the new bumper and you will have a much better quality job.
The picture shows what you should have with the bumper cover removed. Depending on the bumper mold you have, you might need to remove the guard supports, license pocket supports, and horizontal rubber strip. You don't want anything loosely rubbing against a fiberglass bumper.
If needed, you can modify the tail light brackets to fit the fiberglass bumper. Readjust the aluminum reinforcement by loosening the 8 bumper shock bolts if the new bumper doesn't fit properly at first, but don't tighten until the job is done, just snug them.
The picture shows what you should have with the bumper cover removed. Depending on the bumper mold you have, you might need to remove the guard supports, license pocket supports, and horizontal rubber strip. You don't want anything loosely rubbing against a fiberglass bumper.
If needed, you can modify the tail light brackets to fit the fiberglass bumper. Readjust the aluminum reinforcement by loosening the 8 bumper shock bolts if the new bumper doesn't fit properly at first, but don't tighten until the job is done, just snug them.
Last edited by crazywelder; May 5, 2006 at 06:05 PM.
Team Owner
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Originally Posted by ahoover
If you eliminate the tail light brackets, you eliminate an important mounting area for the bumper and place the entire weight of the bumper on the rear body flange alone. The deck and lower quarter panels are supported by the bumper. Take the extra time to make the tail light brackets fit the new bumper and you will have a much better quality job.
The picture shows what you should have with the bumper cover removed. Depending on the bumper mold you have, you might need to remove the guard supports, license pocket supports, and horizontal rubber strip. You don't want anything loosely rubbing against a fiberglass bumper.
If needed, you can modify the tail light brackets to fit the fiberglass bumper. Readjust the aluminum reinforcement by loosening the 8 bumper shock bolts if the new bumper doesn't fit properly at first, but don't tighten until the job is done, just snug them.
The picture shows what you should have with the bumper cover removed. Depending on the bumper mold you have, you might need to remove the guard supports, license pocket supports, and horizontal rubber strip. You don't want anything loosely rubbing against a fiberglass bumper.
If needed, you can modify the tail light brackets to fit the fiberglass bumper. Readjust the aluminum reinforcement by loosening the 8 bumper shock bolts if the new bumper doesn't fit properly at first, but don't tighten until the job is done, just snug them.
, but be careful about using the taillight supports. The TrueFlex bumper is rigid enough to hold the weight of the taillights compared to the original pliable urethane bumper. I tried using these taillight supports and found out as you tighten down the taillight, IT WILL HAVE A TENDENCY TO "FLARE" THE BUMPER WIDER THAN THE CAR!!! I ended up NOT using them on my '75.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Grand Forks North Dakota
Hmm, guess I should have read the directions, it says right on there not to use them as it can warp the fiberglass, just like Paul said. Hopefully fitting it on wednesday, I'll be sure to post some pics when it's all said and done. Thanks again for the help.
