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Old May 8, 2006 | 11:16 PM
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Default 1973 Engine Code

I'm trying to decode my engine number on the RH head. The numbers are: "C6F197390" and "VO617TYZ." Any help? Thanks!
Old May 8, 2006 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ajkogut
I'm trying to decode my engine number on the RH head.
Sorry but you lost me here
RH head?
Look for the pad with a stamped # on the pass side just below the cylinder head
Old May 8, 2006 | 11:56 PM
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RH being the right-hand, passenger side cylinder head (or near there)...the place that all the books I have say to look.
Old May 9, 2006 | 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ajkogut
RH being the right-hand, passenger side cylinder head (or near there)...the place that all the books I have say to look.
Yup
Theres a little pad that sticks out just below the cylinder head with a STAMPED number on it
NOT a casting number.

You may have to remove some paint with a wire brush to read the number.
If it is the original engine the number should match the last 8 digits (or so) of the vin # of your vehicle
Old May 9, 2006 | 01:29 AM
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If those numbers are correct, you are not likely looking at the original engine. They didnt make 97000 cars in `73.
Old May 9, 2006 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ajkogut
I'm trying to decode my engine number on the RH head. The numbers are: "C6F197390" and "VO617TYZ." Any help? Thanks!
1975 to 1977 truck engine, 4bbl carb, auto trans. 160-165 hp stock.
Old May 9, 2006 | 08:29 AM
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Interesting. Its a 4-speed car and was originally an L82. Is there any way to tell if the heads are original and possibly the block was replaced during the rebuild? I know the engine was rebuilt about 20 years ago and I am planning on either rebuilding it again for more power or putting a crate motor in.

If this is a truck engine, does anyone have a link/know of any more info on it (ie. 4 bolt main? forged crank? etc)? I suppose I could find this out another way but I wasnt planning on cracking into it any time soon.
Old May 9, 2006 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ajkogut
....Is there any way to tell if the heads are original and possibly the block was replaced during the rebuild?....
Remove the valve covers and jot down the casting numbers of the heads. Post them and we'll be able to tell you what you have. You will also find casting dates under the valve covers . Wouldn't hurt to jot those down.
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Old May 9, 2006 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ajkogut
Interesting. Its a 4-speed car and was originally an L82. Is there any way to tell if the heads are original and possibly the block was replaced during the rebuild? I know the engine was rebuilt about 20 years ago and I am planning on either rebuilding it again for more power or putting a crate motor in.

If this is a truck engine, does anyone have a link/know of any more info on it (ie. 4 bolt main? forged crank? etc)? I suppose I could find this out another way but I wasnt planning on cracking into it any time soon.
I would be very surprised if this was a four bolt main engine. I have a 74 454 engine out of a truck, and it is a two bolt main engine. Mid seventies engines weren't that spectacular, horsepower wise.
Old May 9, 2006 | 09:19 PM
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Actually quite a number of 70's 350 4bbl Pickups came with a 4 bolt main block...a lot of circle track guys would scour the wreckers picking them up for a song.

Here are a number of sites for chevy motor decoding- Happy reading!

http://www.yearone.com/updatedsingle...gineinfo6.html

http://www.chevymania.com/ look under the parts ID tab

http://www.nastyz28.com/sbcmenu.html

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/bowtie/bowtie.html
Old May 9, 2006 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ajkogut
I'm trying to decode my engine number on the RH head. The numbers are: "C6F197390" and "VO617TYZ." Any help? Thanks!
V0617TYZ
V= Flint engine plant
06 = June
17= Day of month
TYZ = '75 truck engine ( 350 ci, 160hp, 4 barrel)

So the block is not original. Can pull the valve covers and check the head numbers. L82 used 330545 heads.
Old May 11, 2006 | 12:44 AM
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Looks like original L82 heads. They are 330545 heads that are dated August 24 1973. That said, I am guessing that the engine is close to factory power. I think it has a hotter cam in it, though, any idea that gives to the output.

Being that its not an original motor, I am thinking of boring it .030 over and stroking it to (about) 383...probably 385 with the bore job. Also thinking of some 64cc heads (for around 10.5:1 compression) and a good intake/carb combination. Any predictions on output?
Old May 11, 2006 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ajkogut
Being that its not an original motor, I am thinking of boring it .030 over and stroking it to (about) 383...probably 385 with the bore job. Also thinking of some 64cc heads (for around 10.5:1 compression) and a good intake/carb combination.
Why not go for a GMPP crate engine. Just a bolt in operation and comes with a factory warranty
Old May 13, 2006 | 11:31 PM
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Crate motors take the fun out of it. If it blows up, I'll build it again. Don't get me wrong, a warranty is a nice thing but, for me, building it up with parts of my choice and hearing it crank is as fun as driving it around.

Plus, working for one of the Big 3 (not the General) doesn't make me want to by anything from GMPP. Good suggestion, though
Old Oct 25, 2013 | 11:39 AM
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i found this number The number is - #3970010.whats is that!
Old Oct 25, 2013 | 12:01 PM
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That's the casting number for the bare block. GM made about umptysquillion of them over a ten year period.
Old Oct 25, 2013 | 12:32 PM
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Those '73 heads are rare.
Old Oct 25, 2013 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by galeel
i found this number The number is - #3970010.whats is that!
If you have a question, start a new thread so everyone can see it and answer it for you, rather than tacking it onto a 7 1/2 year old thread that is unrelated to your topic.

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