Brake rotor question?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 105
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From: Knoxville TN
Brake rotor question?
Well while installing new rotors,calipers,and pads today I noticed the front rotor was riveted to the hub. The new rotors didnt come with the holes to accept any rivets so I was told it was ok to do like the manual tells you to do on the back and drill/grind the rivets away. So I did just that. Is there any reason not to do this and if so what brands rotors/rotor-hub assemblys to you all recommend(budget)? I was also told I needed to get the new rotors turned once I attached them to the hubs is that true?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by 79tnvette
Well while installing new rotors,calipers,and pads today I noticed the front rotor was riveted to the hub. The new rotors didnt come with the holes to accept any rivets so I was told it was ok to do like the manual tells you to do on the back and drill/grind the rivets away. So I did just that. Is there any reason not to do this and if so what brands rotors/rotor-hub assemblys to you all recommend(budget)? I was also told I needed to get the new rotors turned once I attached them to the hubs is that true?
no you don't need to get new rotors turned once they go on the hubs...although you may want to ensure that the rotors and the hubs have minimal run out once you mate them....there is no reason not to grind and drill the rivets out..... the front and rear rotors are different so if the rotor doesn't fit be wary that they gave you the wrong one...happened to be several times before they got me the correct one, i used the local car quest and other then the wrong box syndrome i was happy with them.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 105
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From: Knoxville TN
I work at advance and got my rotors via our website they were $30 something and made by raybestos. we carried wearever in the store with the rivet holes but they were twice as much as raybestos and not as good a product. The rotors fit fine but they lack the rivet holes but not a big deal since I grinded the rivets. However the back rotors do have the rivet holes so I'll just have to drill the rivets and not grind them.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
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From: I can walk to MA
Leave the rear rivets in place ?
No ... after you drill the rivets ... grind them to the hub surface
and punch them out. Leaving stubs of rivets is no advantage.
They were rivetted from the factory to be turned on the hubs and
hence be totally true in runout. Noone will turn them (that I've heard of)
on the rear hubs. Get rid of the rivets and move on. IMO you made a
good choice with the Raybestos brand .. what I use. 5001s or something like that.
If totally **** (like some of us), you can shim the new rotors to get
near zero runout ... or just rotate through the 5 positions to get
minimum runout without shimming. A couple of my rotors went from
20mils to 2 mils runout after shimming. This ... after installing Oring
calipers to reduce air pumping from runout.
No ... after you drill the rivets ... grind them to the hub surface
and punch them out. Leaving stubs of rivets is no advantage.
They were rivetted from the factory to be turned on the hubs and
hence be totally true in runout. Noone will turn them (that I've heard of)
on the rear hubs. Get rid of the rivets and move on. IMO you made a
good choice with the Raybestos brand .. what I use. 5001s or something like that.
If totally **** (like some of us), you can shim the new rotors to get
near zero runout ... or just rotate through the 5 positions to get
minimum runout without shimming. A couple of my rotors went from
20mils to 2 mils runout after shimming. This ... after installing Oring
calipers to reduce air pumping from runout.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville TN
Originally Posted by NHvette
Leave the rear rivets in place ?
If totally **** (like some of us), you can shim the new rotors to get
near zero runout ... or just rotate through the 5 positions to get
minimum runout without shimming. A couple of my rotors went from
20mils to 2 mils runout after shimming. This ... after installing Oring
calipers to reduce air pumping from runout.
If totally **** (like some of us), you can shim the new rotors to get
near zero runout ... or just rotate through the 5 positions to get
minimum runout without shimming. A couple of my rotors went from
20mils to 2 mils runout after shimming. This ... after installing Oring
calipers to reduce air pumping from runout.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
no run out is the amount the rotor goes in or out as it spins measured in one location...and yes change the position of the rotor to the hub is what they mean by rotating through the 5 positions.....you use a dial caliber in one set location and you turn the rotor after it has been tightened down on the hub and you see how much the rotor is "off of the vertical" as it rotates....sometimes rearranging the rotor on the hub will fix this and some times you need to shim it....its important because the caliper is in afixed location and you want the brake pads to be stationary as opposed to be moving from side to side as the rotor spins...think of a bicycle front wheel that is off the ground and spinning...the wobble is the runout
Last edited by bobs77vet; May 10, 2006 at 11:12 PM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
That about covers the minimum runout procedure.
I used soda cans to cut donut shaped shims ... then sanded them down
to the exact thickness needed. Soda cans are about 4mils thick ...
which translates to much more at the edge of the rotor.
Again .. .fairly **** getting it to zero .. but minimum (1 of 5 positions) is recommended.
You can get a magnetic base and dial indicator from places like Harbor Freight for cheap money ($20 total).
I used soda cans to cut donut shaped shims ... then sanded them down
to the exact thickness needed. Soda cans are about 4mils thick ...
which translates to much more at the edge of the rotor.
Again .. .fairly **** getting it to zero .. but minimum (1 of 5 positions) is recommended.
You can get a magnetic base and dial indicator from places like Harbor Freight for cheap money ($20 total).
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville TN
Wow that seems like a very involved/complicated process. Would it be sufficient to assemble the whole rear and drive the car to a close shop and have the rotors turned on the car?