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What is the best shift kit?

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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 01:55 PM
  #1  
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Default What is the best shift kit?

Looking for a good hard shift kit for a turbo 400 trans. Anyone have any in their's?
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 04:21 PM
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I used a B+M trans kit .... it is a full rebuild kit.
Included are the parts to do the B+M shift kit.
I set mine up for street/strip - and love it.
Under light acceleration, it behaves.
Under heavy foot - tires are a barkin'.

Like many kits, it can be setup for different levels
towing
street/strip
racing

I know many forum members prefer another brand rather than B+M.
I'm sure they will chime in soon.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 10:25 PM
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Default Art Carr

I had great results with an Art Carr kit for my 400 TH in my 80 Chevy truck.
It would slap your head against the back window every time it shifted.
It was a lot of fun.
It was also pretty easy to install. (I had the trans out of the truck)
The pressure relief valve spring gets replaced as well as the 1-2 and 2-3 shift valve springs.

Chris B
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by fl_rider
I had great results with an Art Carr kit for my 400 TH in my 80 Chevy truck.
It would slap your head against the back window every time it shifted.
It was a lot of fun.
It was also pretty easy to install. (I had the trans out of the truck)
The pressure relief valve spring gets replaced as well as the 1-2 and 2-3 shift valve springs.

Chris B
Now that is what I am talking about!! Thanks
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 12:06 PM
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I want a shift kit also... I was looking into the B and M street Strip.... But that art carr sounds good.
How difficult is it to install and does the tranny have to come out
But i want to keep my auto, does the art carr do this... Or whats the best shift kit that keeps your automatic..

Last edited by frostbitten09; Jun 7, 2006 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 12:25 PM
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The B+M kit also replaced one of the valves themselves.
A shift kit provides harder shifts (applies the clutches faster),
but does not take away the automatic operation of the tranny.
Firmer faster shifts can reduce clutch wear ... but place wear and tear
on other components.
Tranny does not have to come out. You may or may not have to use some
vaseline or grease to hold the check ***** in place when reinstalling
the valve body.
As most kits have parts/directions for various levels ... it's easy
enough to go street/strip and if that doesn't tickle your go-bone, then
step up to the racing level.
Fluid can also play into this. B+M "trick-shift" looks good, but I opted
to go with Type F fluid.

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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by NHvette
The B+M kit also replaced one of the valves themselves.
A shift kit provides harder shifts (applies the clutches faster),
but does not take away the automatic operation of the tranny.
Firmer faster shifts can reduce clutch wear ... but place wear and tear
on other components.
Tranny does not have to come out. You may or may not have to use some
vaseline or grease to hold the check ***** in place when reinstalling
the valve body.
As most kits have parts/directions for various levels ... it's easy
enough to go street/strip and if that doesn't tickle your go-bone, then
step up to the racing level.
Fluid can also play into this. B+M "trick-shift" looks good, but I opted
to go with Type F fluid.

And yet this is why i really like tihs forum, Provide great answers.
Can some take away from auto shifting, I want the best shift kit for the fastest hardest shifting but still full functional, But im afraid that since its my DD i might just stick with the Street Strip kit because it sounds Pefect. But then again i like to go all out...
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by frostbitten09
And yet this is why i really like tihs forum, Provide great answers.
Can some take away from auto shifting, I want the best shift kit for the fastest hardest shifting but still full functional, But im afraid that since its my DD i might just stick with the Street Strip kit because it sounds Pefect. But then again i like to go all out...

Ok - just refreshed my memory. The TransKit (full rebuild) comes with all the extra
parts to convert the valve body to auto/full manual. This means that
in drive it acts like a killer auto, but the manual override lets you downshift
to first and keep it there until YOU shift it.

A basic shift kit will not provide this ... must replace at least one valve.
So, there is an in-between. The B+M TransPak has the shift kit
components plus the added parts to do the auto/manual valve body conversion.

I see now that they have two levels HD and S/S.
You will be pleased. My B+M setup will bark the tires downshifting
at 55MPH, with 3.08 gears and an L48 with over 100k miles.

If you stay mellow on the throttle, it behaves like a nice little DD.

Descriptions on their website www.bmracing.com

Be careful. I did the full rebuild. A shift kit will place more burden on the other (old) parts.

Last edited by NHvette; Jun 7, 2006 at 12:42 PM.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by NHvette
Ok - just refreshed my memory. The TransKit (full rebuild) comes with all the extra
parts to convert the valve body to auto/full manual. This means that
in drive it acts like a killer auto, but the manual override lets you downshift
to first and keep it there until YOU shift it.

A basic shift kit will not provide this ... must replace at least one valve.
So, there is an in-between. The B+M TransPak has the shift kit
components plus the added parts to do the auto/manual valve body conversion.

I see now that they have two levels HD and S/S.
You will be pleased. My B+M setup will bark the tires downshifting
at 55MPH, with 3.08 gears and an L48 with over 100k miles.

If you stay mellow on the throttle, it behaves like a nice little DD.

Descriptions on their website www.bmracing.com

Be careful. I did the full rebuild. A shift kit will place more burden on the other (old) parts.
Great info thanks http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id...t=12&subcat=21 Is this the kit you have? That was the one i was going to buy, but than was going to continue to look around.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 01:00 PM
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I have the B&M kit also. If you are LIGHTLY accelerating around town, its pretty normal but firm. If you accelerate from a light at around half throttle, it will often chirp the tires on the 1-2 shift, even at only 2500-3000rpms. If you go wide open and it shifts anywhere over 4000, it gets a VISCOUS bark from the tires. Can't be good for the u-joints but its a lot of fun. LOL Very FIRM shifts at any throttle %, any RPM.


Gotta have a shift kit.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 01:20 PM
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I am about to do a rearend swap (just the chunk), I also plan on replacing the old bushings,bearings,u-joints and other wear items. I would also like to put a shift kit in eventually and was wondering what components or brand of should I put back there to withstand the extra load of a shift kit. Oh yeah I have a stock l48 w/th350 but hope to get the 350 close to 400hp/tq one day.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 01:50 PM
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If you are replacing U joints the only ones I would use are the Spicer's without zerk fittings.

I used to run the B&M Trans pac with the manual shifting mod done and set up for the higher performance mod. Normal driving it felt good, but nail it and it shifts hard. The manual shift part was great for autocrossing too.

I used an Art Carr converter too, any of his stuff is top notch!
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by frostbitten09
Great info thanks http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id...t=12&subcat=21 Is this the kit you have? That was the one i was going to buy, but than was going to continue to look around.
No, that is the basic shift kit.

I did a full rebuild
http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id...t=19&subcat=24

I would suggest to anyone doing this to use the TransPak,
like Scott refers to just above me. It gives the shift kit
plus manual control - if desired.

$54 at summit http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...ch&DDS=1&N=115


Last edited by NHvette; Jun 7, 2006 at 04:24 PM.
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