Rust Bullet
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
I coated my 79 frame and front suspension parts with Rust Bullet and I am happy with the results. I found the RB to be less demanding in terms of preparation - it can go over clean or rusted metal without any pre-coat. It does require 2 coats for best results so the cost is probably about the same as POR-15. One advantage of RB is that it isn't sensitive to ultraviolet and it can be top-coated with any kind of paint. I used Eastwood Chassis Black and the parts look good.
Here are a couple of pics of the RB coated frame and the finished frame.
Here are a couple of pics of the RB coated frame and the finished frame.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,248
Likes: 48
From: westland mi
Originally Posted by Blair Winch Project
I coated my 79 frame and front suspension parts with Rust Bullet and I am happy with the results. I found the RB to be less demanding in terms of preparation - it can go over clean or rusted metal without any pre-coat. It does require 2 coats for best results so the cost is probably about the same as POR-15. One advantage of RB is that it isn't sensitive to ultraviolet and it can be top-coated with any kind of paint. I used Eastwood Chassis Black and the parts look good.
Here are a couple of pics of the RB coated frame and the finished frame.
Here are a couple of pics of the RB coated frame and the finished frame.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Lufkin Texas
Originally Posted by toupstrio
Can someone tell me if they have used the rust bullet products? I was thinking about the por-15 maybe some pro's and con's?
Thanks
Thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
I used ~1.5 quarts for 2 coats on the frame, front upper and lower arms, differential crossmember and radiator support. A little goes a long way. I bought quart cans but when I do the 72 frame I think I will buy the smaller cans. You have to be very careful about handling and storing the RB, like POR-15, or it will harden in the can. These products cure by absorbing moisture from the air so you only pour out as much as you are going to use and never return the unused portion to the can.
I bought a bunch of cheap foam brushes and used paper cups to hold the RB. When you are finished with a painting session you can just toss the brush and cup. Wear gloves - it can take several days to get RB or POR off your skin.
Spraying is NOT recommended unless you have sophisticated protection. The stuff will harden instantly in your lungs if you breathe it in in mist form.
The inside of the frame must still be treated somehow for full rust protection. There have been many suggestions for treating the inside of the frame. I plan to use a paraffin-based oil like chain saw oil and spray it into the frame rails every year to keep future rusting to a minimum.
Rick B.
I bought a bunch of cheap foam brushes and used paper cups to hold the RB. When you are finished with a painting session you can just toss the brush and cup. Wear gloves - it can take several days to get RB or POR off your skin.
Spraying is NOT recommended unless you have sophisticated protection. The stuff will harden instantly in your lungs if you breathe it in in mist form.
The inside of the frame must still be treated somehow for full rust protection. There have been many suggestions for treating the inside of the frame. I plan to use a paraffin-based oil like chain saw oil and spray it into the frame rails every year to keep future rusting to a minimum.
Rick B.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Lufkin Texas
Originally Posted by Blair Winch Project
I used ~1.5 quarts for 2 coats on the frame, front upper and lower arms, differential crossmember and radiator support. A little goes a long way. I bought quart cans but when I do the 72 frame I think I will buy the smaller cans. You have to be very careful about handling and storing the RB, like POR-15, or it will harden in the can. These products cure by absorbing moisture from the air so you only pour out as much as you are going to use and never return the unused portion to the can.
I bought a bunch of cheap foam brushes and used paper cups to hold the RB. When you are finished with a painting session you can just toss the brush and cup. Wear gloves - it can take several days to get RB or POR off your skin.
Spraying is NOT recommended unless you have sophisticated protection. The stuff will harden instantly in your lungs if you breathe it in in mist form.
The inside of the frame must still be treated somehow for full rust protection. There have been many suggestions for treating the inside of the frame. I plan to use a paraffin-based oil like chain saw oil and spray it into the frame rails every year to keep future rusting to a minimum.
Rick B.
I bought a bunch of cheap foam brushes and used paper cups to hold the RB. When you are finished with a painting session you can just toss the brush and cup. Wear gloves - it can take several days to get RB or POR off your skin.
Spraying is NOT recommended unless you have sophisticated protection. The stuff will harden instantly in your lungs if you breathe it in in mist form.
The inside of the frame must still be treated somehow for full rust protection. There have been many suggestions for treating the inside of the frame. I plan to use a paraffin-based oil like chain saw oil and spray it into the frame rails every year to keep future rusting to a minimum.
Rick B.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
From: Northeast Ohio
Rust bullet is sandable like regular paint/primer. POR tends to ball and pill if sanded prior to top coat. I have used them both. Rust bullet chips easier IMO. I bought the eastwood rust proof sprayer and hose and slid that down through the frame rails until it ran out. Seemed to work well as you can direct the spray with the supplied tips.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 5
From: Raleigh NC
Originally Posted by dboz
I bought the eastwood rust proof sprayer and hose and slid that down through the frame rails until it ran out. Seemed to work well as you can direct the spray with the supplied tips.
was your car assembled when you did inside the frame? been thinking about coating the inside of mine, but havent looked into the options yet. was an arizona car its whole life, but in NC now. it isnt like the north, but we do get some rusting here and I want to protect it. was probably done during resto, but I cant be sure so....
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
There are quite a few access holes in the frame so you should be able to get to most of the inner frame with the body on. If you get the wands from Eastwood you should be able to reach everything. Eastwood sells a wax-based coating for use inside frames that would probably work well.
Once again, I wouldn't spray either Rust Bullet or POR without proper breathing protection. Risking your health just isn't worth it.
Rick B.
Once again, I wouldn't spray either Rust Bullet or POR without proper breathing protection. Risking your health just isn't worth it.
Rick B.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
From: Northeast Ohio
Originally Posted by Sacredgrooves
was your car assembled when you did inside the frame? been thinking about coating the inside of mine, but havent looked into the options yet. was an arizona car its whole life, but in NC now. it isnt like the north, but we do get some rusting here and I want to protect it. was probably done during resto, but I cant be sure so....
The body was off so access was easy and frame could be easily moved. Basically in my opinion, if you can coat at least the bottom half of the inside that is all that is probably necessary. Water that lays in the rails in the muck and road grime that builds up in there is what causes the problem. SO if you coat the areas where debris can build up that should protect for many years. I feel my frame will outlast me now!!