Paint prep questions
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Hauppauge NY
Paint prep questions
I'm prepping my Vette for paint following Lars' paper, and have a few questions. First, I used a Primer/Sealer before doing the body work. Its been a while since that was applied. Is it a good idea to spray another coat over the bodywork, before the K36 primer/Surfacer? My thoughts are that any contaminants that may not clean off completely, although I'll try, will have a harder time bleeding through the sealer. Second, is there a glazing putty I can use to fill small scratches in the filler?
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Originally Posted by LI76
....Is it a good idea to spray another coat over the bodywork, before the primer/Surfacer?
The second primer coat and your primer surfacer coats ought to go a long way toward filling any sanding scratches you might have.es
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
only use epoxy primer under the body filler. as a safety precaution ide top coat the body filler with epoxy to prevent bleed.
http://autobody101.com/forums/forum-5.html
.
.
.
http://autobody101.com/forums/forum-5.html
.
.
.
Last edited by JustForFun; Jun 8, 2006 at 06:12 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 22
From: Yooperville MI
You mentioned using primer/sealer first then you did the body work, I assume you used an epoxy primer. Depending on what brand of epoxy you used, there are different recoat requirements. Transtar epoxy need only be sanded with 400 and recoated with your K36, no time limits. If you used PPG DPLF, you need to sand with 400 and recoat with DPLF again because you've waited beyond the recoat time. Make sure you recoat the DPLF with the K36 within one week, or you'll need to recoat again with DPLF which can get very costly.
Use the K36 to block sand the car to smooth the panels and remove sand scratches and pits. When you are ready to top coat with color, use DPLF again but with reducer this time, it makes a good sealer for the top coats.
Make sure you have all of the product sheets for reference.
Use the K36 to block sand the car to smooth the panels and remove sand scratches and pits. When you are ready to top coat with color, use DPLF again but with reducer this time, it makes a good sealer for the top coats.
Make sure you have all of the product sheets for reference.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
Originally Posted by Corz
primed the car before doin the body work??
somethin about that seems off to me
somethin about that seems off to me
Safety Car
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,176
Likes: 7
From: Jennings LA
Originally Posted by LI76
Second, is there a glazing putty I can use to fill small scratches in the filler?
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 22
From: Yooperville MI
Originally Posted by Corz
primed the car before doin the body work??
somethin about that seems off to me
somethin about that seems off to me
Works especially nice on steel cars where you don't want bare metal to rust while your doing minor body work.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,958
Likes: 0
From: Middletown Connecticut
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Originally Posted by ahoover
Yep. If you use epoxy primer over the bare body first. Epoxy primer adheres better to fiberglass and metal than urethane and acrylic primers do. Body fillers adhere better to epoxy primer than to fiberglass or metal. Paint the epoxy, apply filler where needed and shape it like always, then apply your sanding primer such as K36.
Works especially nice on steel cars where you don't want bare metal to rust while your doing minor body work.
Works especially nice on steel cars where you don't want bare metal to rust while your doing minor body work.
well thats a given.. assuming the car gets stored outside.. but I've always done a urethane after my panel work on glass cars. on a mteal car, I use self etching primer then urethane.
I've actually never used a "filler" for the polyester fiberglass; just the usual case of resin and matting, then sand that to shape, prime, block, prime etc till it's perfect.
my way probably takes more time but.. its worth it in the end
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 2
From: Huntingburg Indiana
I've worked on a lot of fiberglass. Using sealer first is a waste of money. If you are using fiberglass reinforced, plastic, or vette panel body filler, you do not want to put this over primer. It must be on bare fiberglass that has been roughed up. Polyester glazing putty can be put over primer, but it must be roughed up with 80 first. Do your major body work first then apply a urethane filler primer. If you have any small places that need filled after sanding the body, use the putty. Prime again and sand. I don't see where an epoxy would be a better moisture barrier than urethane. Catalyzed urethane is waterproof. An epoxy or urethane sealer is made to be sprayed right before the paint. Sealer is applied, wait about 15 - 30 minutes, then apply paint. No sanding is necessary. Some epoxies are not meant to be sanded and they are usually harder to sand.