New C5 Wheels
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Cincinnati OH
New C5 Wheels
Here's the fronts. I need bigger adapters for the rear so they'll have to wait till later in the week. I got 2-1/2" and I need 2-3/4 for mine to sit right. (This pic is with the 1st of 3 buffing steps done, then I have to wax it)
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Jennings LA
[QUOTE=TheMongoose]Here's the fronts. I need bigger adapters for the rear so they'll have to wait till later in the week. I got 2-1/2" and I need 2-3/4 for mine to sit right. (This pic is with the 1st of 3 buffing steps done, then I have to wax it)
why do you have to buff it 3 times? did you color sand it? looking good
why do you have to buff it 3 times? did you color sand it? looking good
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Lompoc, CA. Santa Barbara County
Originally Posted by TheMongoose
Here's the fronts. I need bigger adapters for the rear so they'll have to wait till later in the week. I got 2-1/2" and I need 2-3/4 for mine to sit right. (This pic is with the 1st of 3 buffing steps done, then I have to wax it)
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Cincinnati OH
[QUOTE=gator79][QUOTE=why do you have to buff it 3 times? did you color sand it? looking good [/QUOTE]
The 3-stage system from Presta is a cutting creme, a polish, and a swirl remover. 4th step is to wax it.
I color sanded at 1500 and then 2000 grit. Really seemed wrong to sand down a perfectly good finish but once you get to the swirl remover the depth in th epaint really pops!
[/QUOTE]The 3-stage system from Presta is a cutting creme, a polish, and a swirl remover. 4th step is to wax it.
I color sanded at 1500 and then 2000 grit. Really seemed wrong to sand down a perfectly good finish but once you get to the swirl remover the depth in th epaint really pops!
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From: Cincinnati OH
Originally Posted by Bee Jay
I just switched to 2 1/2" adapters on the rear from 2 3/4". The 2 1/2" work perfectly for me.
It's kinda like my front end...the drivers side wheel barely clears the front of the wheel well and passenger side baely clears the back f the wheel well, go figure. When I measured it turns out the fender on the PS sits 3/4" forward of the DS.
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From: Cincinnati OH
Originally Posted by Demonic Possession
Did you let the paint cure enought before you wax it?
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From: Cincinnati OH
Originally Posted by Bee Jay
Lookin' good. Where did you get the L88 hood. Every L88 hood I see in catologues only fit 68-72. I have a 79, and I want an L88 hood bad.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Lompoc, CA. Santa Barbara County
Originally Posted by TheMongoose
Bought it off the forum here. Oddly enough after looking fo 6-months I posted a 'wtb' ad and got a reply! They sell the long L-88 hood at Ecklers for sure. I looked at them and had figured I was going to have to drop the bucks for one.
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From: Cincinnati OH
Originally Posted by Bee Jay
Thanks, I'll try a WTB add. I thought the Ecklers long L88 wouldn't work on post 73s. I can't tell, but what C5 wheels did you use? Maybe they have different offsets. My big problem was the rear sway bar, which I modified.
I got the Z)6 Motorsport wheels in black. Your probably right the offset is probably 5mm different on those than yours, or some goofy thing like that. Hopefully I can get new adapters quickly this week and exchange 2 of the ones I have. Can'twit to get them on all-around!
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From: Lompoc, CA. Santa Barbara County
Originally Posted by TheMongoose
I got the Z)6 Motorsport wheels in black. Your probably right the offset is probably 5mm different on those than yours, or some goofy thing like that. Hopefully I can get new adapters quickly this week and exchange 2 of the ones I have. Can'twit to get them on all-around!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Middletown Connecticut
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Originally Posted by TheMongoose
I went with a single stage paint and not base-clear. It had sat for a month though while I was sanding out each stage and then color sanding the clear just because I worked on it in my spare time. I was told not to do anything for 30 days on the old paint systems( my buddies dad painted my 77 Olds Cutlass back in 1984). With this they had me sanding and buffing right away. No waiting. They do every car over at the DIY shop this way so it seems to work ok. Anybody out there have a knowledgeable reason why? Mine is just a guess based on what I see.
silicone... thats why. Silicone will trap the paint while it's still breathing. once the paint is fully cured (base coat or single stage) then silicone wax is fine. Your buddy's dad probably used buffing compound which contains NO silicone at all
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From: Cincinnati OH
I was thinking about that tonight. Any chance of getting more runout because f combining the two sets of adapters and spacers? as long as there wasn't any additional chance of the nts loosening up I think it would be fine. Any thoughts on this anyone?
